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  • Sounds like the boost pressure is low, Have you fitted a boost gauge yet Ian?




    hehe!! everytime you two post something on this thread, I have to go and make a cup of coffee before I read it!
    Last edited by BUSHWHACKER; 25 August 2006, 17:14.

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    • Fortunately, I've never seen mine rise to halfway yet. You really must
      have been cr*pping yourself. Not models, unfortunately. I seem to
      have a softspot for generators and small engines. My unfinished projects
      at the moment are a JAP two stroke engine and a WWII Homelite two
      stroke 48V gen. Only been about five years and I still haven't managed
      to finish them. Then have a petter diesel gen to do, then various
      little two/four strokes engines. Oh, and a diesel fired, (electric powered
      motor water pump) pressure washer. Stands about five feet tall. Some
      of the engines, when they are running, should hopefully be running cute
      but useless items, which is where the drip feeder might come in useful.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER
        hehe!! everytime you two post something on this thread, I have to go and make a cup of coffee before I read it!
        We just like to make sure you get chance to have a proper break from all
        that link posting.

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        • I gonna have to start slowing down, my post count is getting embarrassingly high!

          Comment


          • Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER
            I gonna have to start slowing down, my post count is getting embarrassingly high!
            But each one is a pearl of wisdom.

            Comment


            • HeHe yeah we do go on a bit, You think someone will offer us money for the film right's, Yep! i fitted a boost gauge a while back though the bugga never seems to move much and the turbo seems to take for ever to come on,
              and i've found holes in the exhaust, usual place, over the back axle! Cant afford a stainless jobbie yet so it'll have to be a quick bodge for the mot, I've always liked tinkering with engines! i've still got the
              Kawasaki 550 to sort out if i ever get time, If you Google in Yamato museum
              Kure (japan) ther's a 1/ 10 t/h model of it in there (was made for a film i believe) it's bigger than some of our present navy's ships, mines only 9ft long
              the original was a serious peice of jap off-road gear Forgot the pic today as i'm busy grinding and welding sodding garage door hinges. Hope you enjoyed your coffie Vince
              ------------ian
              Too young to die and too old to give a toss

              Comment


              • Well, just when you thought you were safe, and that this thread had died.

                Removed that brass inline switch adapter in the top hose, and put the original
                hose back on yesterday. Don't think the amount of hose on either side of that
                pipe was allowing enough play for engine movement. I should soon find out if
                that was the cause of this grief I've been having with the phantom leaks. Don't
                know if brass reacts with antifreeze, (wouldn't have thought so as I'm sure
                some parts of the rad are brass), but there was a hellishly large collection of
                loose scale in that brass section. Think it had just been acting as a scale trap
                with the ridges between it and the hose. The cooling system was only flushed
                and refilled a few months ago, so it just goes to show what cr@p's circulating
                in the cooling system when normal tap water is used. Previous fill and this one
                have both been with an antifreeze/deionised water mix. Used green coolant
                this time as it's listed as being free of silicates and other gubbins.

                Anyhow, getting back to why I've updated the thread again, , finally got
                the automatic fan switching installed yesterday. Took the temp switch out
                of the thermostat housing for the auxilliary rad fan, and made that manual
                switching only. Popped one of those Corolla temp switches in there instead.
                They are flat ended and don't have the nipple on the end to place it in the
                centre of the coolant flow. Rated at 90 degrees from what I can tell on the
                housing, whereas the aux fan switch appears to be rated at 100 degrees.
                Been out in it today, and the fan appears to be switching in around the low
                80's, kicking out around late 70's to early 80's, according to the aftermarket
                temp gauge. It does appear, however, to have worked a treat. The temps
                have stayed fairly rock solid around the low 80's. The cooling system had
                started sucking coolant back in from the expansion tank after a couple of
                hours cooling, so it appears it's not overcooling the engine, which last time
                resulted in it not sucking the coolant back out of the expansion tank. Also,
                the switching setup is wired directly to the battery, so full fan control is
                available even when the Surf is parked. I'll keep you all updated on the
                final verdict, when I've had chance to thrash it up some hills for a proper
                workout. (If I've managed to cure the leaks).

                Comment


                • This sounds like something i'd like to do Matt, mines hitting 90 and above especially if i cane it and probably more so now i've done the pump mod, aint really been far enough to see top running temp yet with this mod, switching the fan on manually brings the temp down but its a case of constantly watching it, Also would be nice to have the fan run on after ign is off and save me sitting there like a spare part till it cools a bit Any chance of some pics of what you've done, would be greatly apprecieated,
                  Regarding the switch hose adaptor thing, i put mine in the same place and dont get leaks but i do get a build up of redish crusty cr@p around the hose connections, seems to eminate from the ends of the hoses themselves, but could be seeping from the joints, the adaptor is alloy BTW, think this stuff is coolant leaking very slowly and drying at the joint (as the coolant is reddish)
                  When i get round to flushing it i got some green antifreeze (courtisy of the bus place) to go in as well as deionised water, Ian
                  Too young to die and too old to give a toss

                  Comment


                  • I've attached the diagram for how it's wired. I'll take some pics tomorrow
                    of where I've mounted the relays if I can get the camera working. It uses
                    three changeover relays, (can't find any normally closed relays). It has the
                    auto switching, which is bypassed if you switch it manually, and both are
                    overriden by the master override. If you're using the aux rad fan, it would
                    need hardwiring though, instead of being connected as it is through the
                    ignition/ecu system. The temp switch is just one I picked up from the
                    scr@pyard off a Corolla.

                    Must admit, that hose adaptor has been my bane. Not sure if I made it
                    slightly too long or what, but I've had nothing but problems since I put it
                    and the new top hose on. At the moment, without it, the cooling system
                    and hoses appear to be behaving, so time will tell. Was damned surprised
                    when I took it out though. At one end, almost 1/5 of the width of the tube
                    appears to be taken up by a blue white scale, and it's only been in there
                    for about three months. Been a good excuse for flushing and refilling the
                    system with green, though. Got green this time because it apparently
                    has the non required chemicals/compounds removed, but it can co-exist
                    with blue, if there happened to be some lurking in the system somewhere.
                    Red has to be put in a perfectly clean system. It won't intermingle.

                    Went out for a run again today. The fan seems to kick in just above the
                    normal operating temp of the engine, so it should be happy enough with
                    it. I'll keep you upto date on that bit. I really must be a masochist. Who
                    in their normal mind intentionally experiments with the cooling system on
                    the 2.4. I must like grief.

                    Edit: Forgot to mention, it also sounds damned sexy with a large fan going
                    when you've switched the engine off. The beast sounds even scarier. It's
                    like having the locked viscous with the engine off.
                    Last edited by MattF; 29 November 2006, 23:45.

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                    • Just pulled the rubber hoses off this brass inline section, washed the scale
                      type buildup out, and it has actually corroded! Chuff knows what's happened
                      to it, but the ends of the brass section are jagged, and the inside looks pitted
                      and rough as sin, so I've no idea what happened with that. I'll know not to
                      try that again.

                      Comment


                      • Page 31 coming up soon.

                        Some decent info regarding coolant systems:

                        http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/coo...or_service.htm

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by MattF
                          Page 31 coming up soon.

                          Some decent info regarding coolant systems:

                          http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/coo...or_service.htm
                          Hey Matt your post count is just made up on this thread aint it....
                          https://www.facebook.com/groups/henpals/

                          Comment


                          • Thanks for the info Matt, i'll have to study that one a bit as i'm as thick as a donkey's dick, regarding the scale/corrosion on that adaptor, there occurs sometimes in plumbing a thing called "electrolitic action" (not too sure of the spelling) useually when two different metal types are bonded together (joints) and slight electric current is present, dose'nt happen very often and only on certain metals, only came across it once on a heating system that would'nt pump (flow), turned out (after several hours of traceing pipework) that it was this action takeing place on a joint made between 22mm copper and 22mm trueweld, (this was a type of coated steel pipe brought in dureing the copper shortage, 70's) a "fur" had built up at the joint and blocked it, wondering if this occours in engines as well?
                            Too young to die and too old to give a toss

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by stormforce1067
                              Hey Matt your post count is just made up on this thread aint it....
                              Who, me..............
                              (There's no smilie for a nonchalant whistle whilst looking innocent either).

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by ian619
                                Thanks for the info Matt, i'll have to study that one a bit as i'm as thick as a donkey's dick, regarding the scale/corrosion on that adaptor, there occurs sometimes in plumbing a thing called "electrolitic action" (not too sure of the spelling) useually when two different metal types are bonded together (joints) and slight electric current is present, dose'nt happen very often and only on certain metals, only came across it once on a heating system that would'nt pump (flow), turned out (after several hours of traceing pipework) that it was this action takeing place on a joint made between 22mm copper and 22mm trueweld, (this was a type of coated steel pipe brought in dureing the copper shortage, 70's) a "fur" had built up at the joint and blocked it, wondering if this occours in engines as well?
                                That may actually be why. Doing some reading (again) last night, and it
                                does appear to be a problem found especially with aluminium cooling
                                systems. I had connected the temp switch up to the relay coil a few days
                                ago whilst I was doing this relay wiring, without bonding the adaptor to
                                ground, so I may have actually created that condition myself. Who knew
                                antifreeze made a damned good electrolyte? Looks like your description
                                is exactly what I inflicted on my adaptor, Ian. (Stalks off looking sheepish).

                                I'll try to make that diagram into a more straight forward connections from
                                relay to where type diagram.
                                Last edited by MattF; 30 November 2006, 14:54.

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