Disassembling viscous fan

[MattF]

The one below is the type I meant, except I'm after an alloy one if poss.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/produc...code=PCTCA0025

Cheers.

[mud skipper]

this is getting me down now
yes i will get a refund off Kenlowe
but the heating is still a major prob but only when i tow
back to the drawing board again
this time its look at rad, as in getting a better one made.
and replacing heating hoses and cuting up the bonnet

watch this space

john

[MattF]

Glad to hear Kenlowe are being helpful. Did you have the rad recored
last time, or just checked over? There can't be that many parts of the
cooling system left to check or replace now. Usually the case that
Sod's law says it'll be the last thing tried. Hope you enjoyed your trip.

[mud skipper]

Glad to hear Kenlowe are being helpful. Did you have the rad recored
last time, or just checked over? There can't be that many parts of the
cooling system left to check or replace now. Usually the case that
Sod's law says it'll be the last thing tried. Hope you enjoyed your trip.

no it got flow tested and reported all ok, however i spoke with the guy and he reckons as its not a genuine rad then it sounds like that is the root of my prob, here we go again £'s
anyone had a special rad made ie high flow triple etc??? if so how much and where from, this guy is around the £200 mark up here

[MattF]

Had mine recored locally. The rad can take the Landcruiser 3 core element.
That's what went into mine. £200 sounds about right, especially with the rising
copper prices. It probably won't be that price for too long, so sooner rather
than later.

[MattF]

Finally....................... ........................


Got the electric fan assembly fitted to the radiator. What a bugger to do.
These engine bays are not designed for working in. One last question.
Finally can see the clearances, so... between the nobble in the centre of
the water pump pulley and the back of the fan motor is approximately an
1/8 to a 1/4 inch. The question being, are the engine and fan motor liable to
be hitting each other with engine movement whilst driving? Is that clearance
too small? That's two questions, I know.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Finally....................... ........................


Got the electric fan assembly fitted to the radiator. What a bugger to do.
These engine bays are not designed for working in. One last question.
Finally can see the clearances, so... between the nobble in the centre of
the water pump pulley and the back of the fan motor is approximately an
1/8 to a 1/4 inch. The question being, are the engine and fan motor liable to
be hitting each other with engine movement whilst driving? Is that clearance
too small? That's two questions, I know.

It should be fine. The engine moves from side to side on it's mountings, rather than forward and back.


[quote]These engine bays are not designed for working in.


You can almost run around in a Surfs engine bay, compared to working in a fuel injected Mini's!

[MattF]

It should be fine. The engine moves from side to side on it's mountings, rather than forward and back.

Great. Cheers Vince. You've stopped me whittling so much now. I've had
an absolute ba*&@rd of a time getting this unit made and then fitted in, so I'd
have been gutted it that had meant taking it back out. Five days to make
and fit a fan assembly. Why do I inflict this on myself?

You can almost run around in a Surfs engine bay, compared to working in a fuel injected Mini's!

Remind me to avoid those like the plague then. I thought the Surf engine bay
was a masochists dream. Obviously not.

I'll post a pic of the unit later so you can all take the p*ss. Cheers once again
Vince.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Great. Cheers Vince. You've stopped me whittling so much now. I've had
an absolute ba*&@rd of a time getting this unit made and then fitted in, so I'd
have been gutted it that had meant taking it back out. Five days to make
and fit a fan assembly. Why do I inflict this on myself?




Remind me to avoid those like the plague then. I thought the Surf engine bay
was a masochists dream. Obviously not.

I'll post a pic of the unit later so you can all take the p*ss. Cheers once again
Vince.

Have no fear, this is a sensible, grown-ups forum, you're safe from ridicule here..........honest!

[MattF]

A few naff pics.

First one is the alloy shroud I used, which is now mounted in two 25mmx25mm
pieces of angle iron as side rails which run top to bottom of rad and sit against
top/bottom tank lips to stop any of the assembly getting near the fins. Second
picture is the two arms which run from the assembly over to the drivers side
of the rad with another piece of 25x25 angle on as the mounting bracket. Third
one shows the back of the assembly, and the clearance. Definitely a Blue Peter
job. The rods are 6mm threaded rod through an 8mm steel tube for strength.
It then has another piece of angle on the passenger side as the mounting bracket,
and two rods and sleeves bolting the two main rails together, one top, one bottom.
The shroud is then bolted into the main rails.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Top job there Matt.
Now the testing begins huh?

[MattF]

If I dare. Going away for the day Friday, and can't get one of those
hose switch housings before then, so I'm either going to have to wire
it up temporarily as either manually switched or constantly running.
Can't decide which to try. Unless, of course, I can find someone
roundabouts who actually keeps those adaptors in stock. Having no
luck so far, though. I'm buggered if it don't work. The wife will kill me.

[BUSHWHACKER]

I would wire it to a switch.
Switch it on when driving around town in stop start traffic, then switch it off when you can drive about 50mph and above, i.e. dual carriageways and motorway.

Next thing on your shopping list should be a digital temperature gauge, so you can see what the coolant is doing.

[MattF]

I would wire it to a switch.
Switch it on when driving around town in stop start traffic, then switch it off when you can drive about 50mph and above, i.e. dual carriageways and motorway.

Next thing on your shopping list should be a digital temperature gauge, so you can see what the coolant is doing.

Already have an analogue temp gauge. That's why I haven't a spare hole
in the 'stat housing for the switch. Have still got to wire the gauge up, but
safe to say, that will be done before Friday. I'll wire the fan up like you
say. It'll be easy enough to adapt the wiring then when the temp switch does
finally make an appearance. Cheers Vince.

[MattF]

Guess who's really in the wifes bad books! Only just finished wiring the
bugger up. Still haven't test driven it yet. Did fire the engine up earlier to see
if the engine movement came anywhere close to shattering the fan assembly,
and it would appear that the water pump plane is literally the pivot point of the
engine. Firing up the engine and blipping the accelerator doesn't induce an
ounce of movement from the pulley area. Anyhow, getting back to why
I'm posting, , anybody have a recommendation as to what would be a safe
bet for the fuse value? I was thinking around 20A, but wondered if slightly larger
might be better? Not had opportunity to measure the current draw of the fan,
so I'm going to have to wing it.

Oh, BTW, the reason I'm suffering the wifes evil glares is due to the fact that
we're supposed to be going out for the day tomorrow in, ........ guess what?


Cheers.