Egr removal

[BigBobE]

see you have all your vehicle details and all filled in so we can see what you drive,

frank you need to fill in your details a bit more.....

[TonyN]

My pipe set up appears quite different from yours. I have had it like this for about 3 years now with no drama's at all. Who knows, mine might be wrong as well but it works!! Perhaps one of the more knowledgeable on this forum might concur. Good Luck. Sorry about the poor quality image.

Yours is spectactularly wrong!

It should look like this (assuming its a 2L/T, being 90' should be....



I think Frank has a 2L/TE, which is different to your 2L/T

His should look like this...

[IMG][/IMG]

[BigBobE]

as soon as someone posts something helpful, the thread dies....

[NiftyNev]

Hi Frank,

My pipe set up appears quite different from yours. I have had it like this for about 3 years now with no drama's at all. Who knows, mine might be wrong as well but it works!! Perhaps one of the more knowledgeable on this forum might concur. Good Luck. Sorry about the poor quality image.

Yours is a 2L-TE same as the other, but someone has done a vacuum hose modification, because they have disabled small butterfly operation except for engine shutdown. The two hoses to the vacuum diaphragm have been connected via a T so the the one VSV operates the butterfly. Normally the one you see, in your pic as well as another VSV under the manifold are needed to operate the butterfly at shutdown. Not quite the way it should be but works fine if you want the butterfly disabled at other times.

Nev

[frankx]

2L te

Yours is a 2L-TE same as the other, but someone has done a vacuum hose modification, because they have disabled small butterfly operation except for engine shutdown. The two hoses to the vacuum diaphragm have been connected via a T so the the one VSV operates the butterfly. Normally the one you see, in your pic as well as another VSV under the manifold are needed to operate the butterfly at shutdown. Not quite the way it should be but works fine if you want the butterfly disabled at other times.

Nev

hi nev yes mine is 2L TE spoke to mechanic regarding stuck valve no compression suggests try pumping some air into head locate where it comes out and do proper compression test as i dont have diesel compression tester he's not open till monday meentime go down garage do some work rerouting vacum hoses maybe put old turbo back on george machanic reckons dirt from second hand turbo i fitted could have caused problem result stuck valve? he suggested maybe start on 3 cylinders if it does valve clear itself? steve gave some good pointers have check clearances on pots . sorry been bissy down garage not much time to get on keyboard back to other members i keep you posted let know what happens

[stevehutch]

Why so wrong?

Hi Tony N and Nifty Nev,
Yes Nev mine is a 2lte
Tony N, I always believed mine was a 1990 as it was on a "H" plate but it must be a 91.

I should have mentioned in my post that I had done a complete EGR removal and thats why my hose set up is as it is. I figured as Frank had done this it might be of assistance.

Link Here: http://daemon4x4.org/portal/articles.php?rid=6

Subject: E.G.R Removal

Description: Complete removal of the E.G.R system, (2LT-E).

In Pic 1
The green and red encircled areas designate how the hoses should be rerouted. Both ports on the butterfly valve, (encircled red), are connected to the outlet port on the blue V.S.V bolted to the top of the inlet manifold. (The V.S.V outlet port is encircled red).

The inlet port of the V.S.V, (encircled green), is connected directly to the vacuum feed pipe from the alternator which comes via the small metal crossover pipe, (encircled green), attached to the front of the E.F.I crossover tube.

The E.G.R pipe/hose assembly, (encircled blue), will then be disconnected from the system completely. The metal pipes circled in blue are routed below the inlet manifold to two more, larger, V.S.V's, which are also located below the inlet manifold. These valves will also be removed


In Pic 2 you see the hoses after

In Pic 3 you see the valves to remove

The hose/pipe portion circled in blue is the same one visible, (encircled blue), in the PIC 1. The pipe circled in red is where the hose which connects to the E.G.R valve is connected. The electrical connectors for those V.S.V's in the engine bay should be completely sealed once the valves are removed, to prevent corrosion incase the assembly ever needs to be refitted.

In Pic 4 you see the pipes

The end circled in purple is the part which bolts to the exhaust manifold, just below and to the left of where the exhaust downpipe bolts to the turbo. There are two 12mm nuts securing the flange in place, (which are not easy to access or remove), so some patience will be required for that part. When the exhaust end is removed, make sure you keep the multi-layer steel gasket which you will find there safe, as that will be needed again when the blanking plate is added.

The end circled in green is the part which connects to the inlet manifold. The pipe on the top of the assembly circled in red is where the hose is connected from the pipe on the valve hose assembly in picture three.

Two blanking plates will need to be made to blank off the outlet in the exhaust manifold and the inlet on the inlet manifold. Use the flanges on the E.G.R assembly as templates for cutting those plates and for the location of the plate bolt holes. The plates can be made from mild steel plate, preferably a few millimetres or more in thickness. Once you have made those plates, fit them, (remembering to refit the metal gasket underneath the blanking plate on the exhaust manifold), and you now have an E.G.R free system.

[NiftyNev]

The 2L-TE goes back as far as the 8/'90.

Nev

[TonyN]

Yeah, its confusing, you think they would have saved the revised motor to go with the flush headlight change.



You can normally tell by the vacuum hoses, unless someones moved them all...

[BUSHWHACKER]

Another incomprehensible post on it's way.........

[frankx]

valve clearances

Yeah, its confusing, you think they would have saved the revised motor to go with the flush headlight change.



You can normally tell by the vacuum hoses, unless someones moved them all...

hi tony frank here. regarding valve clearances on those pots turned it over by hand manage to slip 15 thou underneath most of pots except no.2 inlet no gap? cant get feeler gauge under it remains tight to lob? but when i turn it over the pots move up en down as normal. like the rest .anybody else experienced this problem dirt stoping the valve from closing? spoke to some chap at car accessory shop maybe take off cam lift pot clean it try loose all? maybe to free it i'll try anything before i wip that head off what you think is it possible? definately think i'ts not bent valve? just dirt cot in intake stopping it closing i know thats good engine and it drove in and not ben started since that second hand turbo was fitted.

[NiftyNev]

If the valve was not closing you would have more clearance not less. Just set the gap and see what happens. Maybe you can just remove a shim? If it ran before then why has the valve adjustment changed so suddenly? Something may be broken somewhere?

Nev

[frankx]

set the gap

If the valve was not closing you would have more clearance not less. Just set the gap and see what happens. Maybe you can just remove a shim? If it ran before then why has the valve adjustment changed so suddenly? Something may be broken somewhere?

Nev

hi nev i am bit of novis at this game this is my first deisel engine i've been working on petrol engines ok i need to order haynes manual before i do anymore damage

[Overland Tonka]

Be awhile till the next post... Looking for a Haynes manual will take a fair amount of time........do some research on the availability...

[Sancho]

Be awhile till the next post... Looking for a Haynes manual will take a fair amount of time........do some research on the availability...

Best bet:

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=1010&vid=758

[TonyN]

Something may be broken somewhere?

100% right...



Any bent or stuck valve will give you bigger gaps like Nev said. Its hugely unlikely you've got crap under the shim or valve head and I can't see how changing the turbo would have caused it.

It must have always been like it, if its tight it will be why you have no compression, take the shim out and compression check the cylinder again (properly! ) but make sure there is plenty on lube on the cam lobe if you're going to spin it over just on the top of the bucket, and only do it once or twice.

I still think this is all 'by the by', and there is something wrong with what's been done to it doing the turbo or EGR, don't get too sidetracked by other stuff, double and triple check the turbo and EGR vacumm hoses and wires, even take it off again and put old one back on, as it worked with that one.