Originally posted by TonyN
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Egr removal
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valve clearances
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Yeah, its confusing, you think they would have saved the revised motor to go with the flush headlight change.
You can normally tell by the vacuum hoses, unless someones moved them all...
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Why so wrong?
Hi Tony N and Nifty Nev,
Yes Nev mine is a 2lte
Tony N, I always believed mine was a 1990 as it was on a "H" plate but it must be a 91.
I should have mentioned in my post that I had done a complete EGR removal and thats why my hose set up is as it is. I figured as Frank had done this it might be of assistance.
Link Here: http://daemon4x4.org/portal/articles.php?rid=6
Subject: E.G.R Removal
Description: Complete removal of the E.G.R system, (2LT-E).
In Pic 1
The green and red encircled areas designate how the hoses should be rerouted. Both ports on the butterfly valve, (encircled red), are connected to the outlet port on the blue V.S.V bolted to the top of the inlet manifold. (The V.S.V outlet port is encircled red).
The inlet port of the V.S.V, (encircled green), is connected directly to the vacuum feed pipe from the alternator which comes via the small metal crossover pipe, (encircled green), attached to the front of the E.F.I crossover tube.
The E.G.R pipe/hose assembly, (encircled blue), will then be disconnected from the system completely. The metal pipes circled in blue are routed below the inlet manifold to two more, larger, V.S.V's, which are also located below the inlet manifold. These valves will also be removed
In Pic 2 you see the hoses after
In Pic 3 you see the valves to remove
The hose/pipe portion circled in blue is the same one visible, (encircled blue), in the PIC 1. The pipe circled in red is where the hose which connects to the E.G.R valve is connected. The electrical connectors for those V.S.V's in the engine bay should be completely sealed once the valves are removed, to prevent corrosion incase the assembly ever needs to be refitted.
In Pic 4 you see the pipes
The end circled in purple is the part which bolts to the exhaust manifold, just below and to the left of where the exhaust downpipe bolts to the turbo. There are two 12mm nuts securing the flange in place, (which are not easy to access or remove), so some patience will be required for that part. When the exhaust end is removed, make sure you keep the multi-layer steel gasket which you will find there safe, as that will be needed again when the blanking plate is added.
The end circled in green is the part which connects to the inlet manifold. The pipe on the top of the assembly circled in red is where the hose is connected from the pipe on the valve hose assembly in picture three.
Two blanking plates will need to be made to blank off the outlet in the exhaust manifold and the inlet on the inlet manifold. Use the flanges on the E.G.R assembly as templates for cutting those plates and for the location of the plate bolt holes. The plates can be made from mild steel plate, preferably a few millimetres or more in thickness. Once you have made those plates, fit them, (remembering to refit the metal gasket underneath the blanking plate on the exhaust manifold), and you now have an E.G.R free system.
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2L te
Originally posted by NiftyNev View PostYours is a 2L-TE same as the other, but someone has done a vacuum hose modification, because they have disabled small butterfly operation except for engine shutdown. The two hoses to the vacuum diaphragm have been connected via a T so the the one VSV operates the butterfly. Normally the one you see, in your pic as well as another VSV under the manifold are needed to operate the butterfly at shutdown. Not quite the way it should be but works fine if you want the butterfly disabled at other times.
NevLast edited by frankx; 13 November 2011, 23:45.
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Originally posted by stevehutch View PostHi Frank,
My pipe set up appears quite different from yours. I have had it like this for about 3 years now with no drama's at all. Who knows, mine might be wrong as well but it works!! Perhaps one of the more knowledgeable on this forum might concur. Good Luck. Sorry about the poor quality image.
Nev
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Originally posted by stevehutch View PostMy pipe set up appears quite different from yours. I have had it like this for about 3 years now with no drama's at all. Who knows, mine might be wrong as well but it works!! Perhaps one of the more knowledgeable on this forum might concur. Good Luck. Sorry about the poor quality image.
It should look like this (assuming its a 2L/T, being 90' should be....
I think Frank has a 2L/TE, which is different to your 2L/T
His should look like this...
[IMG][/IMG]
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see you have all your vehicle details and all filled in so we can see what you drive,
frank you need to fill in your details a bit more.....
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My Set Up
Hi Frank,
My pipe set up appears quite different from yours. I have had it like this for about 3 years now with no drama's at all. Who knows, mine might be wrong as well but it works!! Perhaps one of the more knowledgeable on this forum might concur. Good Luck. Sorry about the poor quality image.
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FFS - even a clueless twonk like me can see that's just plain idiocy !!!
PLEASE stop mucking about and get a professional to look at it before you do some real damage to the engine or yourself !
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green turbo light
Originally posted by TonyN View PostOK, so it was running when you took turbo off, swapped turbo now it doesn't run.
There isn't a lot to get wrong just doing turbo, blanking the EGR could have messed up the throttle butterflys if the vacuum hoses are wrong. Can you post a pic off the hoses around the intake manifold.
It can't have just lost compression just like that, especially if it didn't even run on easy start, could someone have dropped something down the intake while working on it?
Maybe there was nothing seriously wrong with the turbo, the lack of compression could have been why it felt like the turbo wasn't 'working' originally.
If you're sure the compression test was done properly you'll probably have to take the head now for a look now anyway, oil down the bore will only prove the rings are worn, it could still have holed a piston or have a bent valve.
If you have a bent valve the valve clearance will be much bigger than all the rest, normally the only way to bend a valve on a running engine is if you drop a washer or nut down the intake or cam belt timing.Last edited by frankx; 11 November 2011, 22:41.
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OK, so it was running when you took turbo off, swapped turbo now it doesn't run.
There isn't a lot to get wrong just doing turbo, blanking the EGR could have messed up the throttle butterflys if the vacuum hoses are wrong. Can you post a pic off the hoses around the intake manifold.
It can't have just lost compression just like that, especially if it didn't even run on easy start, could someone have dropped something down the intake while working on it?
Maybe there was nothing seriously wrong with the turbo, the lack of compression could have been why it felt like the turbo wasn't 'working' originally.
If you're sure the compression test was done properly you'll probably have to take the head now for a look now anyway, oil down the bore will only prove the rings are worn, it could still have holed a piston or have a bent valve.
If you have a bent valve the valve clearance will be much bigger than all the rest, normally the only way to bend a valve on a running engine is if you drop a washer or nut down the intake or cam belt timing.
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blanked off egr
Originally posted by Koi View PostAre you sure you blanked the egr and not the exhaust manifold off
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