Lexurf V.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Inquisitive Q here. Obviously you know your stuff, but...

Why no merge, X or H?
What about scavaging?
The point of a good X type pipe is it gives upto double the room for the exhaust pulses to go through the tubes, less back pressure = more power - or more accurately, more ability to feed in more fuel/air at the front, relsulting in more power, does it not?

It does, but this is a two ton 4X4 built for reliability and to be driven on a daily basis. It also gives excellent economy even with two and a half times the horsepower of the original 2.4 diesel it replaced, so there was no point in building a fancy exhaust system. Plus it's got a lovely crackle on the over-run!

[BUSHWHACKER]

ummmm i cant wait

quick question how has your surf gained its stance is that just bigger tyres and a 2 inch lift of springs aswell and what size are the tyres

cheers rob

It's not mine, but it has.......
A 2" bodylift.
+2" rear springs from Roughtrax.
+ 2" front and rear dampers.
Torsion bars wound up to give about 1 1/2" lift to the front.
33"/12.5/15 AT tyres.
And an all aluminium V8 that only weighs 200kgs.

[Wolfracer]

It does, but this is a two ton 4X4 built for reliability and to be driven on a daily basis. It also gives excellent economy even with two and a half times the horsepower of the original 2.4 diesel it replaced, so there was no point in building a fancy exhaust system. Plus it's got a lovely crackle on the over-run!

Fair points, but you wouldn't lose MPG unless you asked for it. Know what you mean about the crackle though. Used to have a V8 that sounded like a thousand party poppers going off on over run! Annoyed the hell out of the neighbours though...

[GBV8]

@Bushwhacker

Vince, any chance you could tell me what the measurement is from centre of hub to wheel arch on the rear of that truck please?

[BUSHWHACKER]

Vince, any chance you could tell me what the measurement is from centre of hub to wheel arch on the rear of that truck please?

No sorry, The truck is probably in or near Newcastle-upon-Tyne by now.

I can give you the floor to wheelarch measurement if that helps, we measured it this afternoon.......39 3/4"

[dannyboy77]

Sound bite tomorrow.

like what you have done with the air inlet pipe! very creative! and can keep the second battery for a winch! i think i will do that with mine then move the oil filter under the sump! do you need to extend the air flow wires to reach?

vince just a quick one! top hose overflow pipe where are you going to connect to? an expansion bottle or let it run off like yours?

[J i m s t e r]

Turn your speakers on!

[BUSHWHACKER]

like what you have done with the air inlet pipe! very creative! and can keep the second battery for a winch! i think i will do that with mine then move the oil filter under the sump! do you need to extend the air flow wires to reach?

vince just a quick one! top hose overflow pipe where are you going to connect to? an expansion bottle or let it run off like yours?

You'll need to chop out a section of reinforcing at the back of the bonnet and bend down the lip on the bulkhead where the brake pipe is clipped to, to allow the bonnet to close.....

Parts I bought....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/76mm-3-45-degr...item3f02093eac
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/80-70mm-Straig...item4151b6eef4
Two of these...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...EOIBSA:GB:1123
And you'll need some 3" dia stainless tube.
I use stainless as it doesn't soak up the underbonnet heat like aluminium.

Re: the radiator.
At the moment it's just a run off spout, but when the truck gets back to Holland it's going to have a new alloy radiator fitted with a seperate header tank.

F.Y.I. The past two conversions I have done using the 2.4 radiator with the built-in trans cooler, both ran at 84-88 degrees. With the seperate trans cooler the coolant temp now drops to 74!

Proof that the trans cooler in the 2.4 rad is a contributor to overheating the diesels.

[Dara]

i agree thats one serious exhaust note

[dannyboy77]

You'll need to chop out a section of reinforcing at the back of the bonnet and bend down the lip on the bulkhead where the brake pipe is clipped to, to allow the bonnet to close.....

Parts I bought....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/76mm-3-45-degr...item3f02093eac
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/80-70mm-Straig...item4151b6eef4
Two of these...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...EOIBSA:GB:1123
And you'll need some 3" dia stainless tube.
I use stainless as it doesn't soak up the underbonnet heat like aluminium.

Re: the radiator.
At the moment it's just a run off spout, but when the truck gets back to Holland it's going to have a new alloy radiator fitted with a seperate header tank.

F.Y.I. The past two conversions I have done using the 2.4 radiator with the built-in trans cooler, both ran at 84-88 degrees. With the seperate trans cooler the coolant temp now drops to 74!

Proof that the trans cooler in the 2.4 rad is a contributor to overheating the diesels.

Thanks for te shopping list and the info Vince! I am looking to fab a winch bumper so really need the other battery to go in its old place! And going that way round looks a good idea and more space!

i agree with you about the autobox cooler!!

The heating issue I think still needs looking at as its fine on the road I do have a manual fan and the temp gauge is never above 9oclock with fan on or off on the road but give it 20mins hard graft off road and it doesn’t like it starts to over heat! Last Sunday I had to put 4 litres back in and it only hold 9ish! But here is my hypothesis shoot me down if you think its wrong!

When fill the engine up and bleed it using the screw about the thermostat too to get all the air out and filling up on the top hose is great fills the system and no air! If get hot it will expand and as blocking off the pipe by the air con that did lead to the old expansion bottle it doesn’t have any where to go so the cap releases, and pours out which will then make it over heat as the system is now depressurised slightly, then the coil in the cap shuts system is pressurised then cools and the one way valve on the cap instead of drawing coolant in like should from an expansion bottle draws in air so now the system has air in and is a viscous circle losing coolant and gaining air then like mine when off roading there is insufficient coolant around the thermostat so it wont open when hot and pressure builds up and releases more coolant out the top of the cap and overheats

So was thinking vents in bonnet and fan permanently on when off roading which I will need to make the connections waterproof as I shorted the fuse when in bala and went through water! Try and heat wrap the exhaust manifolds to bring down the heat in the engine bay and connect the expansion bottle back up just in front of the battery on the right??

I am running on gas which I think does make it run a bit hotter but even so!

[GBV8]

No sorry, The truck is probably in or near Newcastle-upon-Tyne by now.

I can give you the floor to wheelarch measurement if that helps, we measured it this afternoon.......39 3/4"

Cheers mate, that's as good as.

So, is it Lexurf VI time???

[BUSHWHACKER]

Cheers mate, that's as good as.

So, is it Lexurf VI time???

Not until next Wednesday, got a half finished one here to do first, needs a new ECU.

Lexurf V is now back in Holland.

[Albannach]

I was pottering around on one of the Lexus forums and came accross that guy talking about his truck going in to get started...

[BUSHWHACKER]

I was pottering around on one of the Lexus forums and came accross that guy talking about his truck going in to get started...

Blimey, didn't know the threads went back that many years!

[Albannach]

Blimey, didn't know the threads went back that many years!

It felt quite nostalgic reading it. I felt really sorry for him too; little did he know...