Lexurf V.

[jmc]

Thanks for sharing, that answered all my questions!

The radiator has been repaired once already (cores), and is mounted without any suspension so that could well be the cause as you suggested.

I'm just looking at options at the minute but I think I'll need something new unfortunately. It was purchased quite a long time ago and has been modified a fair bit.

I don't really have the budget or skills for something like you've managed so I'll have to take a proper look with the front off to see what's do-able.

Thanks again, the pictures have really helped understand the layout.

[gary-r]

found these pics of the header tank and expansion bottle. you can see the pipe on the bottom of the tank that goes to the bottom rad hose. the small top outlet is teed into the heater hose to bleed air from the system.

[gary-r]

i thought yours had a new ally radiator in it. where is it leaking - on the tanks or the core.
ally radiators don't like being solid mounted, they tend to crack with the vibration. if its a tank leak get someone to tig it back up and rubber mount the radiator. that should cure the problem.

mine was a nissan 300zx twin turbo race rad from e-bay - was £120 if i remember right but i cant remember the name of the company. it needed the inlet and outlet pipes changed and i blocked off the filler cap hole.

i made an ally header tank which sits near the bulkhead with an expansion tank. the header tank is plumbed into the bottom hose using a t-piece. the bottom hose has to be re-routed behind the steering box to make enough space.

the mounts were made from 3mm plate and i used some dense foam to cushion the rad.

the pics show the mounts and the re routed bottom hose. the bottom mounts have the foam and support the rad and the top ones have rubber fixings.

with that rad and header tank it never gets hot even in 35 degree summer heat and traffic jams. it holds an extra 2 1/2 litres of water compared to the old 2.4 diesel rad. bear in mind i also run seperate oil coolers for the engine and gearbox

hope that helps

[jmc]

Hello there Mr. "R"!
I've been having some troubles (leaks) with my radiator recently and was hoping you might be able to share some extra information / pictures on your cooling system

Firstly: can you let me know where you sourced your radiator from?

Secondly: I can't see where your expansion tank is plumbed to on the pictures. Do you just run without one? The pressure has to go somewhere if things get too toasty, right?

Thirdly: those brackets look very nice - I may have to get something similar made. Any further info / pics you have on the actual mounting of the thing would come in really handy as I'm fairly new to spannering and the front of my truck has already been "fettled" to fit the current radiator in.

Thanks in advance.

[micksurfv8]

micksurfv8

Imppresive job. Meny people can converted engine but it all so have too look. Seen Yours projects meny times. Respect man is it amazing special engine bay ! Respect !

[3 LIONS]

I like the look of that..

[gary-r]

more bits

aisin hubs fitted - $60 from the us - bargain

ive also fitted air bags in the back - i need to move my toolboxes (630kilos), hopefully the airbags will help and it wont have a saggy ass and drive like a boat.
i just put the air fitting on the back bumper so i can add air in a gas station if needed

[gary-r]

Top job!

Is it much quieter with those mufflers on now?
How's the cooling system performance now, better?

the 4 stainless mufflers(straight through type) give it a deep rumble sound. it seems to run a wee bit smoother at high rpm as well. its louder than factory stuff but doesn't attract plod anymore. its still got a nice rasp above 3500 - 4000 rpm

cooling systems working a treat. its been close to 30 here and i've had it in traffic. the rad fan comes on in traffic jams but does switch on and off suggesting the systems about right. the coolers on the trans and engine
oil work a treat as well - both sit between 80-85 and i've only had the fans on once in a 2 mile tailback.

if anything its probably overcooled for uk winters but a blind would sort that - i mainly did it to make sure i wouldn't disappear in steam and boiling transmission oil in the middle of summer here.

[Diezel Weazel]

Sweet Gary Just Sweet

[BUSHWHACKER]

all finished - over axle exhaust pipes and rear stainless boxes on. battery wiring re-done and tidied up with a hidden master switch to foil the tea leafs.
yes i left a live link for the ecu memory vince before you ask
no fault codes everything works and its running sweet.

thanks again vince

Top job!

Is it much quieter with those mufflers on now?
How's the cooling system performance now, better?

[gary-r]

all done

all finished - over axle exhaust pipes and rear stainless boxes on. battery wiring re-done and tidied up with a hidden master switch to foil the tea leafs.
yes i left a live link for the ecu memory vince before you ask
no fault codes everything works and its running sweet.

thanks again vince

[an1mal_69]

Nice work man..I'm researching what rad to use at the mo..a mk1/2 escort alloy rad looks a good fit, but tend to be pricey for new ones (missed one for £130 this wk ). Have looked at the Nissan range..but it's a gamble until you get it. Also VW/Audi looked a good fit too & they come with twin fan shrouds & PS coolers

[gwh200]

You're all putting me to shame!
I get my new house in about 5 weeks, so get somewhere to work on it.

[gary-r]

radiators in

heres a few pics of the alloy radiator being fitted - i binned the air co pump and fitted a shorter belt while i was in there.

the radiator is a race unit from a nissan 300zx twin turbo. the in and out had to be re welded in the right place and i welded in a bleed nut fitting on the top.

its about 70mm wider and 20mm thicker than the surf rad so a wee bit of trimming is needed - apart from that it fits a treat. i still have almost 40mm clearance between the pulley bush and the rad

i moved the bottom hose to go round and under the steering box - makes it easier to get on and off. just needs a stone guard to protect it behind the steering box.

with the header tank and bigger rad it now holds 2 1/4 litres of extra coolant and its self bleeding so no burping needed.

[BUSHWHACKER]

vince - whats the wire on plug D for the speed sensor link connected to - it makes the digital speedo flash random speed no's sitting still -

Forgot to tell you to link the white and blue wires in plug C too.

They're both earths, but they need joining together to make the speedo work. The blue wire must dampen the signal or something. I connected them this way in that red truck, plus linked the blue/green on plug B with the green/red on plug D as shown previously and the speedo sprung into life.

Hope that gets it working for you, your dash wiring was in the same mess as the red truck's.

Exhaust system looks awesome now, as soon as I get a TIG welder I'll be doing the same on future Lexurfs.

Ooh look, I have a PM.........................