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Lexurf V.

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  • thanks to vince i now have gears - od is now working on the switch as well but the light flashes when its engaged. doesnt make any difference to the od operation though.

    the water temp sender tip from gwh was a good one - it made a big difference with the new one in on cold starting and running.

    had a spare hour today so i made a crossover pipe for the exhaust too.
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    • Originally posted by gary-r View Post
      thanks to vince i now have gears - od is now working on the switch as well but the light flashes when its engaged. doesnt make any difference to the od operation though.

      the water temp sender tip from gwh was a good one - it made a big difference with the new one in on cold starting and running.

      had a spare hour today so i made a crossover pipe for the exhaust too.
      What is the thinking behind the Xover pipe Gary? Noise or performance? Have heard/read various things said about them but do not profess to understand.

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      • Originally posted by flounderbout View Post
        What is the thinking behind the Xover pipe Gary? Noise or performance? Have heard/read various things said about them but do not profess to understand.
        a x - over pipe evens out the pulses from the 2 banks of cylinders on a seperate twin system. i got hassled by the clogland coppers about the exhaust being too noisy so i'm fitting 2 extra 4"round 14" long silencers to quet it down a bit and the x-over should eliminate the raspy back burble on overrun.

        the hp increase from a x-pipe is probably next to nothing but they do smooth out the way the exhaust works.

        im sure some technical wizzard will be along soon to explain it better - i just want it quiter to save on the 150 euro fines over here.

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        • Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
          Plugs in order as they are connected to the cluster:

          A.
          White/black wire = GROUND.
          Green wire = ILLUMINATION.
          Black/orange wire = IGNITION 12V.
          Black wire with silver dots = TACHO.

          B.
          Green/blue wire = SPEEDO.


          C.



          D.
          Yellow/red = FUEL GAUGE.
          Yellow/blue = LOW FUEL LIGHT.

          Using the photo in this post for reference, link the green/blue stripe wire from plug
          B to the green/red stripe wire in plug D this will get the speedo/odometer working.

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          • my green blue wire has been cut at the plug and the loom end is nowhere to be seen. ill need to run a new wire from the surf t/case sender.

            will that still need linked to the wire on the other plug to get a speedo signal.

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            • Originally posted by gary-r View Post
              my green blue wire has been cut at the plug and the loom end is nowhere to be seen. ill need to run a new wire from the surf t/case sender.

              will that still need linked to the wire on the other plug to get a speedo signal.

              The signal wire from the sender is at the original, small grey Surf ECU plug behind the kick panel. I think I marked it speedo or signal. Just run the new wire from there and link it to the green/red wire on plug D before connecting to the speedo.

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              • silent running

                fitted the X pipe and 2 extra straight through silencers today. also re shaped the drivers downpipe and put a clamp fitting to make it easier to get on and off.

                the original was a one piece system so had to be cut to get it off - its now in 3 sections.

                used two and half inch bore stainless for tailpipes

                its quet enough to hear the 33s now

                vince - whats the wire on plug D for the speed sensor link connected to - it makes the digital speedo flash random speed no's sitting still -
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                • Good job.

                  Did you expect to have to fcuk about with it so much regarding the sensors etc?

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                  • Originally posted by gbv2 View Post
                    Good job.

                    Did you expect to have to fcuk about with it so much regarding the sensors etc?
                    yes and no - i knew when i left vince's place it had 2 fault codes and i told vince not to worry and i'd sort it out myself but its the usual story with old wiring - works great until you unplug it. plug it back in and something else dies. i don't mind really cos its let me learn the system.

                    the rest of the stuff - coolers, alloy radiator, exhaust, dash etc i was going to do anyway.

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                    • Yeah, know what you mean.

                      You don't be long learning about these things once you start digging about and sorting out the gremlins. Hope you get to the bottom of it all and it's just a case of driving and enjoying it

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                      • Originally posted by gary-r View Post

                        vince - whats the wire on plug D for the speed sensor link connected to - it makes the digital speedo flash random speed no's sitting still -
                        Forgot to tell you to link the white and blue wires in plug C too.

                        They're both earths, but they need joining together to make the speedo work. The blue wire must dampen the signal or something. I connected them this way in that red truck, plus linked the blue/green on plug B with the green/red on plug D as shown previously and the speedo sprung into life.

                        Hope that gets it working for you, your dash wiring was in the same mess as the red truck's.

                        Exhaust system looks awesome now, as soon as I get a TIG welder I'll be doing the same on future Lexurfs.

                        Ooh look, I have a PM.........................

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                        • radiators in

                          heres a few pics of the alloy radiator being fitted - i binned the air co pump and fitted a shorter belt while i was in there.

                          the radiator is a race unit from a nissan 300zx twin turbo. the in and out had to be re welded in the right place and i welded in a bleed nut fitting on the top.

                          its about 70mm wider and 20mm thicker than the surf rad so a wee bit of trimming is needed - apart from that it fits a treat. i still have almost 40mm clearance between the pulley bush and the rad

                          i moved the bottom hose to go round and under the steering box - makes it easier to get on and off. just needs a stone guard to protect it behind the steering box.

                          with the header tank and bigger rad it now holds 2 1/4 litres of extra coolant and its self bleeding so no burping needed.
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                          • You're all putting me to shame!
                            I get my new house in about 5 weeks, so get somewhere to work on it.
                            Non intercooled nothing.

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                            • Nice work man..I'm researching what rad to use at the mo..a mk1/2 escort alloy rad looks a good fit, but tend to be pricey for new ones (missed one for £130 this wk ). Have looked at the Nissan range..but it's a gamble until you get it. Also VW/Audi looked a good fit too & they come with twin fan shrouds & PS coolers

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                              • all done

                                all finished - over axle exhaust pipes and rear stainless boxes on. battery wiring re-done and tidied up with a hidden master switch to foil the tea leafs.
                                yes i left a live link for the ecu memory vince before you ask
                                no fault codes everything works and its running sweet.

                                thanks again vince
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