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  • #31
    Use new head bolts and put a little oil underneath the head of the bolt before torqueing down. If you have to reset the cam belt tensioner use a big vice to push the piston back in, but only tighten the vice 1/4 turn at a time and wait for pressure to drop before you tighten each time. If you dont you will blow the seals on the piston. Once piston back in thread a small allen key through the holes to hold it there until you have put it back on then once belt on pull out allen key to allow tensioner to take up slack.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Albannach View Post
      Any decent puller will get the camshaft pulley off, I can't recommend the chisel thing...

      Woodruff Key
      Got you, cheers mate


      Originally posted by Hazzo View Post
      Correct tool for the job is a puller and if it had been the crank or other pulley I'd have bought one but mine popped off easily with a very light tap of the chisel behind and underneath the cam pulley, if there had been any resistance at all I'd have got the puller as I don't recommend hammering chisels in against alloy parts. The little rectangular hole is the slot for the woodruff key. H
      I will try get a puller, I may not be as lucky with a chisel, so am I right in saying this woodruff key is part of the camshaft wheel and should come out with a puller?

      Thanks again.

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      • #33
        When you get the wheel off, the key is a small half moon of steel which sits in the rectangular groove on the end of the camshaft. Basically it locks the pulley in place on the shaft and can be picked out of the groove once the wheel is removed.

        You can't have a timing component moving around of its own accord can you?

        Well, I suppose you can, BUT, NOT FOR LONG, ABOUT A TOOTH, THEN YOUR ENGINE WILL GO BANG. So, remember to put it back exactly the same, with the key in place, possibly with a blob of sealant, just for your own sense of security.

        You'll get a puller from any motor factors, basically 2 or three arms go behind the wheel and a bolt in the middle to tighten, screw in and the arms pull the wheel off H
        Last edited by Hazzo; 29 September 2010, 21:27.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Hazzo View Post
          When you get the wheel off, the key is a small half moon of steel which sits in the rectangular groove on the end of the camshaft. Basically it locks the pulley in place on the shaft and can be picked out of the groove once the wheel is removed.

          You can't have a timing component moving around of its own accord can you?

          Well, I suppose you can, BUT, NOT FOR LONG, ABOUT A TOOTH, THEN YOUR ENGINE WILL GO BANG. So, remember to put it back exactly the same, with the key in place, possibly with a blob of sealant, just for your own sense of security.

          You'll get a puller from any motor factors, basically 2 or three arms go behind the wheel and a bolt in the middle to tighten, screw in and the arms pull the wheel off H
          Thanks for shedding light on the woodruff key, I had never heard of that before, I now understand it's placement and purpose,
          I have ordered a torque wrench, which does from 7Nm to 100 odd Nm, as the one I borrowed started at 40, so was no use for the smaller torque jobs,
          and I will look for a Puller, to be on the safe side, but your on going help
          is much appreciated!

          thanks
          Paul.

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          • #35
            hows this coming along mate, any luck? H

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Hazzo View Post
              hows this coming along mate, any luck? H
              I got my Torque wrench, but there has been a delay with the Pullers I ordered So I have been held up big time, I have not made much more progress, just waiting on my package arriving on tuesday I have been told!

              I will be a good bit futher along by next weekend, But I will update the post as I will have plenty other questions for you lol

              Cheers
              Paul.

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              • #37
                Well Finally got the pullers, 3 sizes 75 mm 100mm and 150mm, but the claw part of the pullers are to chunky to fit behind the cam gear, so looks like I will have to smack it off after all!!

                Also did you guys remove the air con compressor and how did you do that?

                thanks very much

                ps did someone forget to to pay the bill for the forum lol

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                • #38
                  I unbolted it and sat it out of the way, no need to undo pipework. H

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Hazzo View Post
                    I unbolted it and sat it out of the way, no need to undo pipework. H
                    OK no worrys will unbolt it, I started unscrewing the 4 screws on top, and heard gas coming out! so I tightend them again!

                    Will need to take that belt off first then, remove the ac compressor.

                    Thanks

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                    • #40
                      ok so got the cam wheel off, with a chisel after all! Hazzo, just popped off and recovered the woodruff, got the oil seal retainer off and I just need to get the 18 head bolts out, but they are SOLID! defo anti clockwise? lol

                      I have followed the pattern for undoing them but I may need a bigger socket wrench or something cos they are tough, and I aint a wee guy!
                      I hear them click once or twice but after that, stuck fast!
                      how did you get them Hazzo?

                      cheers.

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                      • #41
                        breaker bar or torq wrench, they are real tight, turn your torque wrench to the highest setting and use that, they go back pretty much the same I was surprised too, just crack them first, then go back to the first again and follow the sequence, not as important removing it as its scrap but the sequence will make it easier to get off anyway.

                        Definitely follow the sequence when replacing the new one, I actually went through 5-6 passes as I'm a bit heavy handed normally but used the wrench all through with only slight increases till torque was reached, then another two goes for the ninety deg to finish it off. H

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                        • #42
                          Dont use a torque wrench for undoing stuff they are not designed for it, use a breaker bar, or leave it torqued up when you put it away always screw it back to its minimum.
                          My brakes dont work, so i made the horn louder.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by Hazzo View Post
                            breaker bar or torq wrench, they are real tight, turn your torque wrench to the highest setting and use that, they go back pretty much the same I was surprised too, just crack them first, then go back to the first again and follow the sequence, not as important removing it as its scrap but the sequence will make it easier to get off anyway.

                            Definitely follow the sequence when replacing the new one, I actually went through 5-6 passes as I'm a bit heavy handed normally but used the wrench all through with only slight increases till torque was reached, then another two goes for the ninety deg to finish it off. H
                            true it is scrap metal now aint it, well I guess I can be a bit more heavey handed then, but my torque wrench is not much bigger than my socket wrench, but I am sure I can get a breaker bar if needed.

                            Thanks Hazzo.



                            Originally posted by james-r View Post
                            Dont use a torque wrench for undoing stuff they are not designed for it, use a breaker bar, or leave it torqued up when you put it away always screw it back to its minimum.
                            yeh I will get a breaker bar, not sure what you mean when you say
                            "or leave it torqued up when you put it away always screw it back to its minimum"

                            cheers though.

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                            • #44
                              When you adjust the wrench to say 39nm, when you have finished turn the wrench back down to it's lowest setting, if not it won't be long before re-calibration is required.
                              If your still a bit unsure just google "how to store/how not to use a torque wrench".

                              James
                              My brakes dont work, so i made the horn louder.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Originally posted by james-r View Post
                                When you adjust the wrench to say 39nm, when you have finished turn the wrench back down to it's lowest setting, if not it won't be long before re-calibration is required.
                                If your still a bit unsure just google "how to store/how not to use a torque wrench".

                                James
                                Oh yeh I know, thanks though.

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