My Head has gone

[Hazzo]

hazzo have you used the rover cooler as a complete bypass for the original radiator cooler or used it on the feed and kept it running through the rad???

No, its before the feed to the rad, through rad then back to tranny.

Ok, how did you guys get this bolt off?!!?

I undid the steel pipe behind it and the socket and extension bar were clear to remove the nut/stud, I can't remember if it was that one but one of mine the whole stud n nut came out in a oner, all were liberally soaked with WD40 overnight and I had little problem getting this undone. H

[TonyN]

Ok, how did you guys get this bolt off?!!?

see how you have it there, with an extension bar on it give it a smack with a hammer, it'll slip right over the nut and you'll undo it no problem. The water pipe will flex out the way a little. Use a 6 point socket on these nuts to avoid rounding them off as they are often tight.

[Hazzo]

ok I will need to borrow one then, thanks for that! ok will try sort that tomorrow,it's only that one nut holding that side up, so I moved on to the inlet side,
I have aligned pully one/two to TDC so I am now ready to take the belt off and cam shaft pulley one, but do I need to turn the camshaft pulley anti-clockwise 90 degress?? or leave as is and remove belt and pulley?

thanks

Your getting confused with that manual, put the points to the timing marks using a socket on the pulley bolt, either cut the belt off or undo the tensioner, I undid the tensioner, but as mine was hydrolocked I couldn't turn to the marks anyway but I did note where they were before it sprung as the belt was released.

The replacement head was a built job so the cam was set at TDC anyway, now when I'd cleaned the old gasket from the block and the soot from the piston tops and was ready for fitting the new head I backed off the CRANKSHAFT, note crankshaft not camshaft, till the pistons were hiding in the barrels at half way, I then fitted the head, torqued the bolts up to the correct settings, in the correct order, then returned to the crankshaft and slowly came back to the correct timing mark before fitting the new timing belt. Do this with the injectors out, no /little compression to fight. Once the belt is back in place and your timing marks have stayed put, slowly turn the engine through two full revolutions, checking timing marks each revolution and ensure nothing feels like its grinding or dodgy/hard etc, if all seems good shove the other bits back in position, coolant/oil/connect batteries and vroom vroom, if you've done a good job. See ya, H

[Surfsupdudes]

I fitted the new rad as i had spent so much money already an extra £200 seamed like a drop in the ocean.That back nut i did the way Stormforce said and timed it up the way you have then took the belt off.

yeh I get you, seems logical, thanks mate

once you have got the timing marks all set up then just cut the old belt off and fit a new one.I wouldn't re-use the old belt if your fitting all other new stuff

that belt is only been on for 3 months, but it aint genuine toyota, whereas I will be getting one in the kit, so I may as well bin it!


I undid the steel pipe behind it and the socket and extension bar were clear to remove the nut/stud, I can't remember if it was that one but one of mine the whole stud n nut came out in a oner, all were liberally soaked with WD40 overnight and I had little problem getting this undone. H[/QUOTE]
did the same thing, probably see in the pic that they are soaked in WD40 but no joy.

see how you have it there, with an extension bar on it give it a smack with a hammer, it'll slip right over the nut and you'll undo it no problem. The water pipe will flex out the way a little. Use a 6 point socket on these nuts to avoid rounding them off as they are often tight.

Thanks Tony I was hoping someone would say that, and I actually grabbed a hammer to do that and thought, I better not until I ask, thanks mate thats what I will be doing, I just didnt want to bust anything!!

Your getting confused with that manual, put the points to the timing marks using a socket on the pulley bolt, either cut the belt off or undo the tensioner, I undid the tensioner, but as mine was hydrolocked I couldn't turn to the marks anyway but I did note where they were before it sprung as the belt was released.

The replacement head was a built job so the cam was set at TDC anyway, now when I'd cleaned the old gasket from the block and the soot from the piston tops and was ready for fitting the new head I backed off the CRANKSHAFT, note crankshaft not camshaft, till the pistons were hiding in the barrels at half way, I then fitted the head, torqued the bolts up to the correct settings, in the correct order, then returned to the crankshaft and slowly came back to the correct timing mark before fitting the new timing belt. Do this with the injectors out, no /little compression to fight. Once the belt is back in place and your timing marks have stayed put, slowly turn the engine through two full revolutions, checking timing marks each revolution and ensure nothing feels like its grinding or dodgy/hard etc, if all seems good shove the other bits back in position, coolant/oil/connect batteries and vroom vroom, if you've done a good job. See ya, H

Thanks Hazzo thats a good bit of info, thanks for taking the time mate,
I am getting there slowly but surely lol, thanks everybody for all the advice,
I have never done anything like this before, I have done basic things, brake pads disks, oil changes, filters, etc, but this is a whole other level, so I appreciate the info and experience from you all,

cheers
Paul.

[Hazzo]

Its not too hard of a job, I'd helped my mechy brother years ago so had some idea but this was my first time too, I suggest numbering/labelling injector pipes and the vac hoses too, I didn't and had to mull over diagrams and ask here for refit advice, just take it slow and it'll come together, follow the torque settings diagram to prevent warping the head and soak the injectors overnight in inj cleaner or atf before refitting. H

[Surfsupdudes]

Its not too hard of a job, I'd helped my mechy brother years ago so had some idea but this was my first time too, I suggest numbering/labelling injector pipes and the vac hoses too, I didn't and had to mull over diagrams and ask here for refit advice, just take it slow and it'll come together, follow the torque settings diagram to prevent warping the head and soak the injectors overnight in inj cleaner or atf before refitting. H

numbering the injector pipes is a good idea! i'lll get on it, too late for the vac pipes I think, but I did take enough pics of everything,

I think at least the manual has the correct procedure for fixing the head in place
starting in the middle and working in a uniformed order with a torque setting of 39nm?

the 2.4 write up by lucky says 78nm, big difference, whats the correct torque for the 3.0 bolts?

thanks again....

[stormforce]

theres a head removal and replacement in the sticky section and it will give all the info for the head bolts etc

[Hazzo]

Can't remember offhand but I will have followed the manual specs of 39nm then the 90deg adjustments for the last two passes, anyway its working fine so must be right, watch you don't miss out those at the rear and keep the old washers as the kit I got didn't have them, I also ended up with various gaskets I have no idea where for but they weren't removed by me so weren't replaced either. H

[Surfsupdudes]

theres a head removal and replacement in the sticky section and it will give all the info for the head bolts etc

I found your sticky articles Stormforce, thanks.

Can't remember offhand but I will have followed the manual specs of 39nm then the 90deg adjustments for the last two passes, anyway its working fine so must be right, watch you don't miss out those at the rear and keep the old washers as the kit I got didn't have them, I also ended up with various gaskets I have no idea where for but they weren't removed by me so weren't replaced either. H

yeh looks like 39Nm right enough, I think I will be ordering the head and other bits and pieces from roughtrax, so I will have the same kit, so will keep the washers,and understood about the Gaskets,

Never got much done today,working out in the elements, and it rained most of the day....

I did get that nut off after all hammering on a 6 point socket with long extension bar, I also cut the belt off and removed the pulley nut, that was a toughy!

But I cant get the the camshaft pulley off, I dont have a SST how do I get it off, seems ###### tight on there?

Thanks all.

[Hazzo]

All thats holding it is the oil seal and little half moon woodruff key, think I tapped a chisel in behind it till it popped, oh, and keep the little half moon key and also the one at the rear of the head as these aren't with the kit or replacement head either, I lost the woodruff and had to wait for toyota parts ordering the new one. While I'm on you need all the manifold studs, both intake and exhaust, some of mine were fubarred and new toy ones are bl00dy expensive for what they are, so take care removing them. H

[Wez ssr-x]

The studs do cost a bit think about £30 but there again same as i said with the rad drop in the ocean after £900 on a head.But thats me and i had to have it done right

[TonyN]

best practice is torque the head bolts up to instructions supplied with the bolts or gasket, in case they are manufactured slightly different to original ones.

all head bolt sets come with specs, so its not normally anything to worry about.

[Surfsupdudes]

All thats holding it is the oil seal and little half moon woodruff key, think I tapped a chisel in behind it till it popped, oh, and keep the little half moon key and also the one at the rear of the head as these aren't with the kit or replacement head either, I lost the woodruff and had to wait for toyota parts ordering the new one. While I'm on you need all the manifold studs, both intake and exhaust, some of mine were fubarred and new toy ones are bl00dy expensive for what they are, so take care removing them. H

I will try get the head off with the two manifolds inplace, and then take my time taking them apart, I am not sure what a woodruff key is though?,
all I see is a little rectangle hole on the inside of the pulley, is that where you put the chisel in?

Thanks Hazzo

The studs do cost a bit think about £30 but there again same as i said with the rad drop in the ocean after £900 on a head.But thats me and i had to have it done right

It's true, 'if somethings worth doing, it's worth doing right'.... lol
I get you.
cheers wez

best practice is torque the head bolts up to instructions supplied with the bolts or gasket, in case they are manufactured slightly different to original ones.

all head bolt sets come with specs, so its not normally anything to worry about.

Thats good to know!! Thanks Tony, thats the Main worry for me,
I dont want any issues with the new head?!!?!?

[Albannach]

Any decent puller will get the camshaft pulley off, I can't recommend the chisel thing...

Woodruff Key

[Hazzo]

Correct tool for the job is a puller and if it had been the crank or other pulley I'd have bought one but mine popped off easily with a very light tap of the chisel behind and underneath the cam pulley, if there had been any resistance at all I'd have got the puller as I don't recommend hammering chisels in against alloy parts. The little rectangular hole is the slot for the woodruff key. H