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  • #16
    Originally posted by woodwarm View Post
    Ady, can understand Rick's frustrations. Nothing worse than a professional mechanic taking your money,scratching his head & nuts telling you to throw more cash in the pot

    Sometimes best to sell & save further worries.
    Seen similar on ebay (running with faults,no mot) £700 on a very good day.

    On a bad day £200 ish
    I see it every day at work , well ok not every day but more often than not they have had some bloke in who has spun them some bull$hit and the actual real repair is nowhere like what they have said, and when I rack up it takes a fair bit of convincing that the real issue is such and I get it and yeah it fcuks me off no end
    "why don't we throw a butt load of your cash at the problem and hopefully get lucky" Knobs.

    The wifes Pug has just failed its MOT and will be in the region of £500 to get the work done ie springs new exhaust new handbrake cable two tyres it ain't worth much more and it only cost us £550 but as it has failed on normal wear and tear it will be repaired.
    I can't be arsed to fix it myself, plus I would need new wheel ramps and axle stands as they are just too big for the little Pug, so the local garage, whom I have trust in will be doing the work.
    If I flog it now as is it is going to be worth £150 ish maybe more.
    I will then have the grief of trying to find a vehicle suitable and within a reasonable distance...... you know " yeah I like that one but I prefer the colour of the other one"...........
    But to replace it will be at least £700 by the time you factor in new road tax and changing the insurance the costs soon mount up.

    If that is all that is wrong with it in my humble opinion I would change the o ring or at least bung in some brake fluid to swell the seals and then MOT it
    The vehicle is known to the OP and if all else is ok it seems to be a bit drastic to flog it
    But then I love my Toyota and am ever so slightly biased.
    Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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    • #17
      Shokenore I have complete faith in the mechanic, he has listed all he has tried, which hasn't been done in one night. Also he said he feels bad that he can't fix it and only charged me £50 for what he has done. He does repairs for the local offroad club and was recommended by 3 ppl. He even tried to just seal the pump from the outside to get it through the mot for me but it didn't work. If we could work out which pump I have then maybe we could get a new seal, that's where the problem lies. The crank nut is so tight he cannot get it to budge. I don't like getting rid of a car that I have invested time and money in but I cannot see a way out of his at the moment. The manual I have(from roughtrax) lists 3 different pumps but mine does not look like any of them and the model plate on the pump is unreadable. So if you know a different way to find out which pump I have then plz tell me because that is the big problem ATM. I've probs spent in the region of £1000 on the truck since buying it and not happy at losing that but I am at a total loss and figure that maybe cutting my losses is the best option ATM. Thx for all the input and helpful suggestions from everyone. I hope to be back with another surf at a later date when I can afford it

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      • #18
        http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=11&cid=610


        Thought this kit was for 2.4 ln130 1991.?

        Fitted mine 2lte engine

        earlier 2lt pump differs.

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        • #19
          Early Hi Lux surf 1984 1988

          Early Bosch type so 060 for mechanical pump

          See Roughtrax listing
          Last edited by woodwarm; 4 April 2015, 18:01.

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          • #20
            Yep used that 1, or 1 like it 2 years ago and also got the same kit this year, comes in at about £36 with postage but the seal required isnt in that kit. I believe it's something to do with the back of the pump but they are different shapes for different pumps roughtrax don't stock the Bosch kits anymore only the dense ones. Phoned them to make sure I was getting the right one cos the 1st one I got was a Bosch 1.

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            • #21
              Pictures of the pump?
              Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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              • #22
                Waiting for them to be sent to me and I will attempt to put them up here ASAP. Truck is back with me now so it's easier together to look at stuff.

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                • #23
                  http://s288.photobucket.com/user/Rick_Barton/library/
                  these are all the photos I have, don't think they going to be of much use tbh

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                  • #24
                    Since getting the truck back it now chucks out loads of black smoke, is that connected to my pump problem do you think? Don't want to sell on if it has another problem that I haven't declared.

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                    • #25
                      Black smoke could be pump related ie a tooth out on the timing belt.
                      But it could also be the egr or it could just need a italian tune up
                      Black smoke all the time or just when you floor the throttle?
                      And are you talking fill the road up ?


                      The pic with the pump body pic 2 shown is that the fuel leak area?
                      Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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                      • #26
                        I don't know where the leak is coming from ATM, I could maybe get under the truck and have a look. Originally we thought it was the back of the pump so he tried to just seal it from the outside but he said it just leaked from elsewhere. When he got the truck it never really smoked before, except little bit of white on start up, so I'm wondering what the mechanic could of done to cause this and if I can correct it. I will txt steve (mechanic) and see if he knows where the leak is coming from. I'm happy to replace the pump if I can find the same 1, but I'm told that I need to undone the crank nut to remove the pump and he said that it's solid and doesn't want to break anything. Any ideas on how to get a crank nut undone? I don't even know where it is tbh.

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                        • #27
                          Crank nut = socket bar jammed against chassis and briefly key the starter to break the stiction
                          Or a blooming long breaker bar

                          Fuel leak firstly see if you can see it weeping along any joints
                          If not really degrease the pump then use flour or chalk dust etc and sprinkle the pump and see where the damp starts
                          Check for leaks first the crank nut does need persuading
                          Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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                          • #28
                            Steve did the leak thing with talc after degreasing as much as he could but said that the leak was not visible so the only option would be to remove the pump and replace every seal and onring and then just hope it works. That's y I asked about the crank nut, it's stopping the pump being taken off. I'm gonna call Steve later and get as much info as possible, I'll try to get pump off myself if I can.

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                            • #29
                              Degrease and check again
                              Pump removal is a major PITA
                              Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diesel-Fue...1481520340?pt=


                                Looks very similar to pump in your pics.

                                Ebay item has the part no.

                                Not suggesting you buy it

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