Egr removal

[frankx]

missing shim

good news found the missing shim under rocker cover at engine looks like took 6 hits on the way out which expains why there no compression inlet valves wasent opening as i said the pots move up en down freely like the rest do you think i might bent valve on i'ts way out ? do i have set the timing take off the cam to replace the shim havent done it before can you explain what needed

[flounderbout]

were do i start?

[frankx]

hi guy's

hi nev closer inspection reveals there it a gap under lobe on no.2 intake pot looks as if theres no shim? so made arrangements to have it towed up to my place . where i can work on it outside the house looks like gonna have wip head off tmw?

ah know this got tobe longest thread in hisyory but finally got my baby sitting outside my door step now. dont have access to deisel compression tester or air hose so were do i start i can put it all back together with original turbo back on double check vacum hoses like Tony said cause understand deisel engines need lots of air before they firer up? maybe turbo booster not working ?will she firer up with 3 cylinders ?

[frankx]

there i

Sounds like it's terminal. All you need for a leakdown test is a compressor and a fitting for a glow plug hole. Glow plugs are M10 X 1.25 thread. Adapt the fitting to fit a compressor hose and fit it to glow plug hole. With engine on top dead centre for each cylinder being tested, pump some air into it. If it loses pressure, you should be able to tell where it's going. Into the sump would come out the crankcase breather hole.

Nev

hi nev closer inspection reveals there it a gap under lobe on no.2 intake pot looks as if theres no shim? so made arrangements to have it towed up to my place . where i can work on it outside the house looks like gonna have wip head off tmw?

[BUSHWHACKER]

See post #96.

[NiftyNev]

Sounds like it's terminal. All you need for a leakdown test is a compressor and a fitting for a glow plug hole. Glow plugs are M10 X 1.25 thread. Adapt the fitting to fit a compressor hose and fit it to glow plug hole. With engine on top dead centre for each cylinder being tested, pump some air into it. If it loses pressure, you should be able to tell where it's going. Into the sump would come out the crankcase breather hole.

Nev

[frankx]

mechanic's point of view

If that is happening then the engine is stuffed. How did he determine that? A leak down test is one way of finding out where compression is going.
Nev

he reckons either hole in piston or rings are gubed i ask him to do compression test he said no point 80 pec. combustion being lost ? is there another of checking nev? geo the only one i know in my area with diesel compression tester he stated head off shot

[NiftyNev]

towed round to george mechanic place put on gas analyzser he said all the combustion escaping out the engine into sump?

If that is happening then the engine is stuffed. How did he determine that? A leak down test is one way of finding out where compression is going.
Nev

[tonupteabag]

100% right...



Any bent or stuck valve will give you bigger gaps like Nev said. Its hugely unlikely you've got crap under the shim or valve head and I can't see how changing the turbo would have caused it.

It must have always been like it, if its tight it will be why you have no compression, take the shim out and compression check the cylinder again (properly! ) but make sure there is plenty on lube on the cam lobe if you're going to spin it over just on the top of the bucket, and only do it once or twice.

I still think this is all 'by the by', and there is something wrong with what's been done to it doing the turbo or EGR, don't get too sidetracked by other stuff, double and triple check the turbo and EGR vacumm hoses and wires, even take it off again and put old one back on, as it worked with that one.

At this point my only suggestion would be to substitute the shim for a 2p coin. It's just to stop the cam bearing down on the bucket while checking the compression, it would be best to wipe the bucket top to remove any oil residue, After it's clean put a tiny amount of blue tac to hold the coin while the engines being cranked, once the test has been done remove the coin and ALL of the blue tac. This worked well with motorcycle shim's so should be useful.

[frankx]

freeing stuck valve

Best bet:

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=1010&vid=758

hi guy's regarding freeing valve ben told if set timing remove cam lift pot out either use block wood and hamer tap enough not to hard just enough so that it moves better idear press if make one to bolt on to cam press it dowm gently enough maybe some lubricant blow out? with glow plugs removed and injector ? what you think good idear towed round to george mechanic place put on gas analyzser he said all the combustion escaping out the engine into sump? reckons hole in the pistion something debrae must have blown out the second hand turbo ? into air intake manifold to cause this sort of damage never even borrowed to check the compression test so am in soppie buble wip head off tmw find out exactly what am dealing with and to crown it all off lost me glasses on the way down to garage #### know's am gonna write a song about this i allway's make the best of bad situation what a title fancy donateing towards hit single ha ha

[TonyN]

Something may be broken somewhere?

100% right...



Any bent or stuck valve will give you bigger gaps like Nev said. Its hugely unlikely you've got crap under the shim or valve head and I can't see how changing the turbo would have caused it.

It must have always been like it, if its tight it will be why you have no compression, take the shim out and compression check the cylinder again (properly! ) but make sure there is plenty on lube on the cam lobe if you're going to spin it over just on the top of the bucket, and only do it once or twice.

I still think this is all 'by the by', and there is something wrong with what's been done to it doing the turbo or EGR, don't get too sidetracked by other stuff, double and triple check the turbo and EGR vacumm hoses and wires, even take it off again and put old one back on, as it worked with that one.

[Sancho]

Be awhile till the next post... Looking for a Haynes manual will take a fair amount of time........do some research on the availability...

Best bet:

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=1010&vid=758

[Overland Tonka]

Be awhile till the next post... Looking for a Haynes manual will take a fair amount of time........do some research on the availability...

[frankx]

set the gap

If the valve was not closing you would have more clearance not less. Just set the gap and see what happens. Maybe you can just remove a shim? If it ran before then why has the valve adjustment changed so suddenly? Something may be broken somewhere?

Nev

hi nev i am bit of novis at this game this is my first deisel engine i've been working on petrol engines ok i need to order haynes manual before i do anymore damage

[NiftyNev]

If the valve was not closing you would have more clearance not less. Just set the gap and see what happens. Maybe you can just remove a shim? If it ran before then why has the valve adjustment changed so suddenly? Something may be broken somewhere?

Nev