Suspension/Body Lift difference?

[Surfer Ross]

Have you actually ever lifted a surf?

Brian,

I didn't do the work but I have a 7" lifted truck that I drive every day and I know exactly what has been done to it. The radiator is dropped, reason, its attached to the body, if not dropped the radiator hoses are too short.

It has a spacer in the steering column to cope with the 3" body lift.

The fuel tank sits lower now in relation to the filler cap, therefore a longer hose is required and is fitted on my truck.

Panhard rod bracket is optional on a 7" lift if you don't mind your rear axle sitting 4" out of alignment and you don't mind your brake bias valve being shot to hell. Otherwise its a requirement.

One further one, you will also need a full front end geometry adjustment done afterwards or you will eat the inside edges of your front tyres very quickly. Lifting the suspension by any measure will increase negative camber on the front wheels, making it very twitchy at the front. Mine is being properly set up by Steertrak on Thursday.

You can do it cheap or you can do it right.


edit:

Mine also has modded brake pipes. You may have been on the forum a long time mate but there are different ways of doing things. Don't assume that because you've seen it done a particular way, thats the only way of doing it. All of the above are absolutely required for a 3" body lift to be carried out correctly.

edit again:

Over 4 inches of suspension lift will bust your CV joints unless you drop the front diff. I've got manual hubs fitted with a 4" suspension lift. The driveshafts are at a horrendous angle on that.

Got to admire your conviction though mate. You're brave enough to tell somebody they don't know what they're talking about and then when it transpires that you were wrong to start with, you come back and edit your original post. I've read your Suzuki thread and I think you've done great work on it, however, I think you've got a cheek telling me I know feck all about lifting a 2nd gen after some of the comments you've made in this thread. After all, the whole point of giving advice is that you actually know what you're talking about. Your words, not mine.

I pose the same question back to you. Have YOU ever lifted a 2nd Gen? Don't sound like it to me sir. Peace

[wishbone]

The panhard rod drop bracket has nothing to do with the brake bias valve. That has its own spacer fitted.

[stormforce]

In that case I apologise didn't realise he was on about 3" a unusal size for most.
A 3" body lift thou Rich is that not a tad excessive mate? I saw a 2" body lift detach from a chassis on Sunday when the truck slide side ways and the rear wheel hit a bank.

I got to have the 3" body lift to fit the 39's with the 6" suspension lift.I wont be off roading my truck once fully lifted tho as i may well get another for playdays.I deffo wouldn't want to go over the 3" body even for just on road use
You get the price list from Andy today

[TonyN]

Is the panhard rod connected to the body on the 3rd gen ?

nope.

[Surfer Ross]

Bump for transparent and above board edit to earlier post.

[Apache]

Brian,
Over 4 inches of suspension lift will bust your CV joints unless you drop the front diff. I've got manual hubs fitted with a 4" suspension lift. The driveshafts are at a horrendous angle on that.

Yep, the shafts hit the 'cups' with more than about 3" or so of lift. An indication that this is happening are the three little slits that get cut into your boots every five minutes. Backing off on the lift a touch prevents this happening.

[yoshie]

Brian,

I didn't do the work but I have a 7" lifted truck that I drive every day and I know exactly what has been done to it. The radiator is dropped, reason, its attached to the body, if not dropped the radiator hoses are too short.

It has a spacer in the steering column to cope with the 3" body lift.

The fuel tank sits lower now in relation to the filler cap, therefore a longer hose is required and is fitted on my truck.

Panhard rod bracket is optional on a 7" lift if you don't mind your rear axle sitting 4" out of alignment and you don't mind your brake bias valve being shot to hell. Otherwise its a requirement.

One further one, you will also need a full front end geometry adjustment done afterwards or you will eat the inside edges of your front tyres very quickly. Lifting the suspension by any measure will increase negative camber on the front wheels, making it very twitchy at the front. Mine is being properly set up by Steertrak on Thursday.

You can do it cheap or you can do it right.


edit:

Mine also has modded brake pipes. You may have been on the forum a long time mate but there are different ways of doing things. Don't assume that because you've seen it done a particular way, thats the only way of doing it. All of the above are absolutely required for a 3" body lift to be carried out correctly.

edit again:

Over 4 inches of suspension lift will bust your CV joints unless you drop the front diff. I've got manual hubs fitted with a 4" suspension lift. The driveshafts are at a horrendous angle on that.

Got to admire your conviction though mate. You're brave enough to tell somebody they don't know what they're talking about and then when it transpires that you were wrong to start with, you come back and edit your original post. I've read your Suzuki thread and I think you've done great work on it, however, I think you've got a cheek telling me I know feck all about lifting a 2nd gen after some of the comments you've made in this thread. After all, the whole point of giving advice is that you actually know what you're talking about. Your words, not mine.

I pose the same question back to you. Have YOU ever lifted a 2nd Gen? Don't sound like it to me sir. Peace

Hmm

and yes a few.


A 3" body lift is extremly rare on this forum that is why I left my original post and apologised to you in the reply to Rich. On a normal 1.5" 2" lift 90% of you advice was misleading.
As for the "my words" part I edited that out within 30sec of posting as I thought it a little harsh. On hindsight maybe I should have left it in.

[wishbone]

Ross can you confirm whether you have a bracket lift on the front or just the torsion bars wound up ? Reason I ask is you mentioned before that your lower wishbones were not flat, and now you're saying the front driveshafts are at bad angles. In a 'proper' 4" lift on the front the diff is dropped so the driveshaft angles should be close to stock.

I was sure the add for it said bracket lift ?

Rob.

[stormforce]

Ross can you confirm whether you have a bracket lift on the front or just the torsion bars wound up ? Reason I ask is you mentioned before that your lower wishbones were not flat, and now you're saying the front driveshafts are at bad angles. In a 'proper' 4" lift on the front the diff is dropped so the driveshaft angles should be close to stock.

I was sure the add for it said bracket lift ?

Rob.

Ross's truck does have the 4" superlift kit fitted

[wishbone]

Cheers for clearing that up Richard - I thought it did. It seems from his posts that the T-bars have been cranked aswell so he probably has nearer a 9" lift on the front!

Rob.

[Surfer Ross]

Cheers for clearing that up Richard - I thought it did. It seems from his posts that the T-bars have been cranked aswell so he probably has nearer a 9" lift on the front!

Rob.

Hi Rob,

The lower wishbones have a down-angle of about 20 degrees on them, not a great deal more than my stock 3.0 SSR-X.

I haven't asked Dave yet but I'm fairly certain the Torsion bars have been wound up a fair bit, the front end is quite stiff although this could just be the Pro-Comp ES9000s doing their thing. It does sit very high overall.

The driveshafts have a serious down-angle but I have stretch boots for the CV joints that are a lot more stretchy than standard so I'm hoping they won't split. At the moment, the front end is very twitchy on uneven back roads but the guy from Steertrak is coming tomorrow to square that one away. Its running a lot of negative camber so I'm hoping it will behave a bit better once the geometry is sorted out.

Hmm

and yes a few.


A 3" body lift is extremly rare on this forum that is why I left my original post and apologised to you in the reply to Rich. On a normal 1.5" 2" lift 90% of you advice was misleading.
As for the "my words" part I edited that out within 30sec of posting as I thought it a little harsh. On hindsight maybe I should have left it in.

Your apology is unnecessary mate but accepted none the less, I know it wasn't personal and that you thought you were righting a wrong. Quoting somebody's post and then annotating it in red with words such as "Rubbish" is not a technique taken from the guide on "how to win friends and influence people" though. I didn't think that was very good form mate, even if you had been right.

Perhaps it could have been written in a less dictatorial and arrogant fashion or at least with a bit of explanation of why it was "Rubbish"?

[wishbone]

Ross check your upper bumpstops for clearance if it's riding bad. I've got the es9000's and they're nice not harsh.

Here's a pic from the superlift fitting instructions that may help you work out if it's been tweaked or not:

Rob.

[Surfer Ross]

I had a look at that earlier Rob, great minds think alike eh

I think its safe to say that its been tweaked

There is another Superlift kit that does use the torsion bars and it carries a warning that the front end alignment will need set after the lift has been done.

I'd say you're right on the money about being 9" up at the front. Its the highest Surf I've ever seen in the metal. I'm certain I could get 39s under the arches as it is just now. I want it running a tiny amount of positive camber so if that means dropping the front half an inch and pushing the camber out to the max, I'd be happy with that. Steertrak are very good at what they do so I'm confident it'll all be sweetness and light by tomorrow lunchtime.

[blackpoolsparks]

Your apology is unnecessary mate but accepted none the less, I know it wasn't personal and that you thought you were righting a wrong. Quoting somebody's post and then annotating it in red with words such as "Rubbish" is not a technique taken from the guide on "how to win friends and influence people" though. I didn't think that was very good form mate, even if you had been right.

Perhaps it could have been written in a less dictatorial and arrogant fashion or at least with a bit of explanation of why it was "Rubbish"?

You're making friends quick, eh?

well, at least you're influencing people... to do what Im not sure?

[TonyN]

You're making friends quick, eh?

well, at least you're influencing people... to do what Im not sure?

there is a lot of specific to one persons individual lift stuff posted here, that isn't necessarly gospel and misleading when generally advising about 'normal' lifts.