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What thickness bar for rock sliders ?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Bibs View Post
    Right - Have measured them properly and they are nearer 3mm - what is the best way to go about attaching them to the truck and would you be able to make something for me?
    yep no problem,do you know what you want and do you want them weld on or bolt on???
    www.overfab.uk

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    • #17
      Originally posted by surfenstein View Post
      yep no problem,do you know what you want and do you want them weld on or bolt on???
      I need it to be jackable with the easiest possible solution - not bothered about pretty. What do you suggest?
      How can I be lost when I've got no where to go

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      • #18
        Hi Bibs,

        I've been searching on sliders for a while and there doesn't seem to be a definitive 'best' option.

        Personally I'd prefer bolt on as it's less permanent on the truck, but I may have to go with welded as I don't have a bodylift which makes things tight.

        I'm drawn to the 'bolt through chassis' method which involves drilling through the chassis and welding tubes into it.(stops the bolts crushing the chassis) this is do-able without a bodylift and seems fairly easy.

        Doubt that helps?

        Rob

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        • #19
          Originally posted by wishbone View Post
          Hi Bibs,

          I've been searching on sliders for a while and there doesn't seem to be a definitive 'best' option.

          Personally I'd prefer bolt on as it's less permanent on the truck, but I may have to go with welded as I don't have a bodylift which makes things tight.

          I'm drawn to the 'bolt through chassis' method which involves drilling through the chassis and welding tubes into it.(stops the bolts crushing the chassis) this is do-able without a bodylift and seems fairly easy.

          Doubt that helps?

          Rob
          Not sure which is best tbh - stainless is a btch to drill or weld so I am told thanks though
          How can I be lost when I've got no where to go

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Bibs View Post
            Not sure which is best tbh - stainless is a btch to drill or weld so I am told thanks though
            I have a sh!t load an i do mean sh!t load of cable ties...


            Tech weekend!?


            Or hot on the trail of that 350z thread you could use woodscrews?!

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            • #21
              Originally posted by RodLeach View Post
              I have a sh!t load an i do mean sh!t load of cable ties...


              Tech weekend!?


              Or hot on the trail of that 350z thread you could use woodscrews?!
              Ha ha ha that might just work - yeah saw that - ouch......
              How can I be lost when I've got no where to go

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Bibs View Post
                Not sure which is best tbh - stainless is a btch to drill or weld so I am told thanks though
                As far as I know it's really horrible trying to weld stainless to normal steel aswell, which would push you towards the bolt on method.... but I may be wrong.

                Rob.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by wishbone View Post
                  I'm drawn to the 'bolt through chassis' method which involves drilling through the chassis and welding tubes into it.(stops the bolts crushing the chassis) this is do-able without a bodylift and seems fairly easy.
                  There is an alternative method of doing that which requires no welding. The holes which sit behind the mounting plate are drilled out wide enough to slot the strengthening sleeves in. The holes on the opposite side of the chassis rail are only drilled wide enough for the bolt itself to go through. You then have a setup where the sleeve can't slide completely through the rail and it butts up against the back of the mounting plate and the far inner face of the chassis rail. As soon as the mount and bolt goes on, you're sorted.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by MattF View Post
                    There is an alternative method of doing that which requires no welding. The holes which sit behind the mounting plate are drilled out wide enough to slot the strengthening sleeves in. The holes on the opposite side of the chassis rail are only drilled wide enough for the bolt itself to go through. You then have a setup where the sleeve can't slide completely through the rail and it butts up against the back of the mounting plate and the far inner face of the chassis rail. As soon as the mount and bolt goes on, you're sorted.
                    I had to read it twice to get my brain in gear but this makes sense, less welding to do as well.
                    Alan

                    yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."

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