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  • #16
    Originally posted by Medieval Dave
    Depends if you want them on when the key is out, if not, then I would wire them as follows, which is about the standard way to wire fogs, either front or rear;

    1. The power circuit. In minimum 2.5mmsqr cable (about 25A) but I would go 4mm if poss in case you add more lights.

    Run as short as possible to the fuse. Remember that before the fuse the cable is unprotected so if copper touches the body it WILL burn. I reccomend fitting a little aux fusebox right next to the battery, they are about 4 pounds. For two 55w foglights use a 15A fuse. From the fuse run into the relay contacts then out the other side of the contacts to the first lamp and loop to the second.

    take the earth of each lamp to a good local earth (any bolt onto clean bare metalwork) always cover your earth points with a good blob of grease.

    Now when the relay is energised the lights will come on.

    2. the control circuit. in minimum 1mm2 normally, but I would go 2.5mm unless you understand the fusing araingement of what you are tapping into - remember the wire must always have a bigger rating than the fuse that protects it or sooner or later it will end up in flames.

    Find a wire on the sidelight circuit which is live when the sidelights are on. Tap into this and run to your switch

    From the other side of the switch run to your relay coil, and from the other side of the coil to a good earth. Now when the sidelights are on AND the switch is on current will flow from the sidelight circuit through the switch and through the relay coil to earth. this will energise the relay allowing the power circuit to operate.

    Notes:

    1. remember the power and control circuits are seperate circuits and each must be protected by a fuse. In the above case we use the fuse of the sidelight circuit, if our new wiring goes wrong then we take out the sidelight fuse. If you just use the switch then you should fit a seperate fuse between the battery and the switch.

    2. All the cable in your circuit must be capable of carrying more current than the rating of the fuse protecting it. Fuses are there to protect cables, not the lights on the end of them, it's cables that can set fire to your truck.

    3. On your relay the symbol for the coil will normally look like a spring, and the symol for the contacts (the switch that closes when the coil is energised) will look like an arial view of a half open gate.

    4. You don't need to have or understand the wiring diagram to pick up feeds to swotch relays. If you need to find a feed from the sidelights that is live when the sidelights are on for example then you can do it as follows with a cheapo voltmeter. This technique is called 'backpinning'

    connect the black probe of your meter to earth (bare metal). chack you have done so correctly by setting the meter to OHMS or continuity (symbol like a horseshoe on some meters), then touch the red probe to another bit of metal and the display should drop to zero or close.

    Now set your meter to Volts (DC). push the red probe into the back of the connector that goes to the light switch on the steering column. don't disconnect it, just push the probe in from behind. if that wire is not live then you will get 0V if it is live you should get between 12V and 15V. so flick the sidelights on and off and watch for the volts going up when the light is on and down when it is off. when you find one that does that then you've found the wire you need to tap into.

    Hope that all makes sense, If not give me a shout.

    P.S. if anyone up my end of the world wants help with wiring stuff I would be up for that, especialy if you are the sort of person that can do mechanical stuff without loosing a finger and can help me with those bits!
    WOW thanks for al that think i might give a local sparky a call .
    i,ll probably blow the thing up!
    hey just got a new 30 td surf all the gadgets 1997 metallic black niceeeeeeeeee

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by ian619
      Hi Dave, Yeah that sounds good, I like the idea of a small bank of switches
      controling all or any combination of lights, (be like preflight check hehe)
      sounds a bit like my "cockpit"
      Simon.O.
      '90 SSR Ltd 2.4TD 5 spd

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Simon.O.
        sounds a bit like my "cockpit"
        Bl00dy hell!! Can you still get it in park? A man after my own heart,
        Too young to die and too old to give a toss

        Comment


        • #19
          Calling Medieval Dave

          Hi Dave, Been looking through Vech Wireing Products, Not sure which relay
          to go for, R20b 30amp at £1.87 or R30a 30amp at £4.01, I intend to fit a relay for each "pair" of lamps so will need three relays for the front three
          and two for the roof lamps, I'll add the roof bar at a later date but would like to fit all five switches in one go to save butchering the dash twice, I'm looking at the oval rocker switches with led, Are these OK?, and i'm guessing
          the R30a relay's, I'll wire them as you suggested so i can have none, 2, 4, 6,
          8, or 10, Also I'll be keeping the spots at 55watt each, But am i right in thinking i could up rate them to 130's using these relays, So with that in mind
          i should use cable man enough for 130watt (in case) right?, Iwould have emailed you but im waiting for my son to sort out my pc, unable to email at
          present, Cheers mate. Regards Ian.
          Too young to die and too old to give a toss

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by ian619
            Hi Dave, Been looking through Vech Wireing Products, Not sure which relay
            to go for, R20b 30amp at £1.87 or R30a 30amp at £4.01, I intend to fit a relay for each "pair" of lamps so will need three relays for the front three
            and two for the roof lamps, I'll add the roof bar at a later date but would like to fit all five switches in one go to save butchering the dash twice, I'm looking at the oval rocker switches with led, Are these OK?, and i'm guessing
            the R30a relay's, I'll wire them as you suggested so i can have none, 2, 4, 6,
            8, or 10, Also I'll be keeping the spots at 55watt each, But am i right in thinking i could up rate them to 130's using these relays, So with that in mind
            i should use cable man enough for 130watt (in case) right?, Iwould have emailed you but im waiting for my son to sort out my pc, unable to email at
            present, Cheers mate. Regards Ian.
            OK, I'll do this a bit at a time. these are the switches I used from VWP, but I used lamps not LED's because they do not state what sort of loading resistor, if any the LED's come with, but I know the lamps will work, they aren't a bad sort of light, and mine have been in for i guess about a year and haven't blown any, although I think I might keep a spare switch for if one blows.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #21
              O.K. part two ( I'm doing it a bit at a time and checking my maths)

              A 30 A relay is fine for two 55's or two 130's providing the cable is big enough. Leaving it open for 130's means going up a cable size or so.

              two 55s is 10A ish
              two 130's is 22A ish

              Use 3mm cable (33A or so). With the 55's in use a 15A fuse, with the 130's use 1 25A, of for 100's use a 20A fuse.

              Of course where the calble is only going to 1 lamp you could come down a size, but why bother. Buy a roll of a colour you fancy an one of black for the earths (call me old fashioned), Or 5 colours for five cicuits?

              The typeA type B thing is a red herring as it only reffers to the pin assignment, so it only matters when replacing on origional. B's are now more common, pick either type and stick with it. the 30b's are fine.

              You need to give carefull thought to your fuses. you could use fused sockets, but I preffer to get the fuse as close as possible to the battery, and to have a couple of spare feeds. So I would fit a little aux fusebox, maybe a 8way for spares put this as close to the battery as you possibly can. then use the interlocking relay sockets and fit them anywhere tidy. they work well.

              Trust thats the lot, let me know.

              Dave

              Comment


              • #22
                Thanks very much Dave, Appreceiate this and hope you dont mind me asking,
                I was thinking of using a fuse box, saw some on their listing, think it looks a lot neater, As for cable! as i said i've several rolls, this was left over stock
                so i brought some home, used on busses and coaches which run 24volt, I'll
                measure it but pretty sure its at least 3mm, i'll check the labeling on the rolls,
                its red with a yellow trace, I used some to wire an ampmeter on the old serria
                with no probs, (If you would like a roll let me know and i'll post one) the least i can do, Ordered the lights by the way, guy seemed amased they were all for
                one truck! asked me to send em a pic when there all on, (Roughtrax), Last
                six they had in, Lucky, Best Regards Ian.
                Too young to die and too old to give a toss

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by ian619
                  Thanks very much Dave, Appreceiate this and hope you dont mind me asking,
                  I was thinking of using a fuse box, saw some on their listing, think it looks a lot neater, As for cable! as i said i've several rolls, this was left over stock
                  so i brought some home, used on busses and coaches which run 24volt, I'll
                  measure it but pretty sure its at least 3mm, i'll check the labeling on the rolls,
                  its red with a yellow trace, I used some to wire an ampmeter on the old serria
                  with no probs, (If you would like a roll let me know and i'll post one) the least i can do, Ordered the lights by the way, guy seemed amased they were all for
                  one truck! asked me to send em a pic when there all on, (Roughtrax), Last
                  six they had in, Lucky, Best Regards Ian.
                  Nice one, I'm fine for cable, we also have lots of left overs. Just remember that 24V systems use THINNER cable than 12V so check what it says on the side of the cable, if in doubt buy the proper stuff.

                  Dave.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Hi, Think i'll get the proper cable as you say, Got all the ref nos for cable,
                    switches and relays, Trugeing through the modular housing's section at the
                    moment, I'ts gonna cost a bl00dy fortune! But its worth doing it properly,
                    Need three moduels that take two standard relays R20B's and two fuse
                    moduels, that'll give me spare fuses and a spare relay, Did you check
                    SimonO's pics! How he rembers what works what i dont know,,, Regards Ian
                    Too young to die and too old to give a toss

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by ian619
                      , Did you check
                      SimonO's pics! How he rembers what works what i dont know,,, Regards Ian
                      The panel to the right of the steering wheel now has a placard overlay that has all the controls and indication lamps labelled.
                      The switch panel below the comms gear is still blank but I know what is what.
                      Simon.O.
                      '90 SSR Ltd 2.4TD 5 spd

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Nice one Simon! Your much more advanced in your gagetry
                        than i am, Still scratching my head and plucking up courage to strip the dash,
                        Im trying to get as much stuff as posible ready to install so i only strip it once, The surf has a faily large dash but there arnt many places to put stuff
                        like gauges etc, Regards Ian
                        Too young to die and too old to give a toss

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Hi Dave, Just a quick couple of questions! I'm wondering wither or not to
                          replace the wires in the spot lamps, The led wire will be ok but if i do upgrade
                          to 130watt bulbs should i replace the other two, Pic 1, There are three wires,
                          black, white and yellow, There's no paperwork with the lights so i'll have to power one up to see which is which, I assume black is earth,
                          The other question is, I intend to take a feed of the high beam loom wire,
                          Run it through a fuse, then on to a switch, then loop it to feed the other
                          four switches, That will give me a high beam supply to all five switches, Is
                          this ok to do? I'll also put a switch in the led ring (side lights) so i can turn them off if req,
                          The cable i mention'd is the smae as the 33amp cable from vwp theirs is
                          44 strand 0.030 strand thickness and 3mm, Mine is 44, 3mm could'nt measure
                          the strand thickness but looks ok, its not marked 12 or24 volt but i know
                          caetano's used to build ambulances and mini buses (12volt) and as this was redundant stock its prob 12 volt, Luckly i've got this in red/yellow,
                          blue/white and black (for earth), Cheers Dave Regards Ian
                          Too young to die and too old to give a toss

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by ian619
                            Hi Dave, Just a quick couple of questions! I'm wondering wither or not to
                            replace the wires in the spot lamps, The led wire will be ok but if i do upgrade
                            to 130watt bulbs should i replace the other two, Pic 1, There are three wires,
                            black, white and yellow, There's no paperwork with the lights so i'll have to power one up to see which is which, I assume black is earth,
                            The other question is, I intend to take a feed of the high beam loom wire,
                            Run it through a fuse, then on to a switch, then loop it to feed the other
                            four switches, That will give me a high beam supply to all five switches, Is
                            this ok to do? I'll also put a switch in the led ring (side lights) so i can turn them off if req,
                            The cable i mention'd is the smae as the 33amp cable from vwp theirs is
                            44 strand 0.030 strand thickness and 3mm, Mine is 44, 3mm could'nt measure
                            the strand thickness but looks ok, its not marked 12 or24 volt but i know
                            caetano's used to build ambulances and mini buses (12volt) and as this was redundant stock its prob 12 volt, Luckly i've got this in red/yellow,
                            blue/white and black (for earth), Cheers Dave Regards Ian

                            Ah, ****, I just spent about half an hour typing up a reply and then blanked it, Will have to try again when less tired. The short answer is

                            a) you probly dont have to rewire the lamps, remember those wires take only the corrent for 1 lamp
                            b) your wire sounds OK
                            c) on most cars you could wire like that. a toyota uses a negative earth to switch high/dip. have a look on the diagram on the sticky at the top of this section. i will try to get you some more info. It is dead simple but hard to explain, will need to draw a picture and scan it or something.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Medieval Dave
                              Ah, ****, I just spent about half an hour typing up a reply and then blanked it, Will have to try again when less tired. The short answer is

                              a) you probly dont have to rewire the lamps, remember those wires take only the corrent for 1 lamp
                              b) your wire sounds OK
                              c) on most cars you could wire like that. a toyota uses a negative earth to switch high/dip. have a look on the diagram on the sticky at the top of this section. i will try to get you some more info. It is dead simple but hard to explain, will need to draw a picture and scan it or something.
                              Thanks Dave, I've done that many a time, Spend ages typeing a post only to
                              see it disapear, Bl00dy annoying, Sorry to be a pain, Ian.
                              PS try'd the sticky but cant get it up, This happen'd Last time i try'd, Can
                              any one else get or is it my pc?
                              Last edited by POPEYE; 15 December 2005, 10:39.
                              Too young to die and too old to give a toss

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Hows this for a sketch

                                Toyota are buggers. the attached sketch shows how the existing lights work on the left, and to the right of the wiggly line is how my spots are tied in, and front fogs. the two dotted lines are the two tappings into the existing sytem.

                                Will launch in on an explaination later- not falling into the type two pages and crash trap agian....

                                Dave
                                Attached Files

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