Tweet
Updates!!
It's been over three years now, largely it has been 100% flawless. I'm in the "refining stage" now.
All in all I think that's not bad. I'm kicking myself for the dirty fuel pump contacts as that's the only one that might be considered as a "failure" i.e. it meant the thing didn't start.
Coolant hoses:
The connectors sucked. Smooth alloy swaged at each end. they were supplied by the same supplier as the hose (quality not great I'd say) so I replaced them with some machined, ridged ones. These will hopefully deform the inner part of the hose for a better seal without needing any extra sealant, and stop things sliding under pressure. I also replaced the non branded Ebay hose clamps with proper Mikalor stainless ones. These seem to provide a more even clamping pressure (even though the design looks almost identical) and are sturdier so I can seriously tighten them up!
All hose parts were cleaned, one part was replaced as it had expanded against the radiator and worn slightly (due to connector slide).
This has helped, but I still get the odd drip, its absolutely fine under pressure. I have contacted a couple of suppliers about getting a custom silicone hose made up, to save on failure points/connections/mess/ballache to install. I had originally used Hylomar Blue to help sealing on the "smooth" connectors, it helped sealing, but meant that the hoses slid out under pressure. I'm loathed to use silicone sealant as that just seams a bit of a bodge. Another option I might investigate is welded alloy tube, or replicate the same thing with rubber angles that will seal better. It's messy I don't like this bit. While I'm at it if I can get custom tubes done, I'd also like to replace the intake piping to get rid of the extra clamps and sections.
I also want to look at fabbing up an aluminium (probably) fan shroud so I can make a neater job and not fix the fan via the radiator matrix. its worked find but its another detail I don't like. If I had a fan shroud I could also make securing brackets for the hoses.
I believe the reason that the AC pump failed was due to running excessively high pressure when stationary. From factory my truck never had a condenser fan (did any 3rd gens?). With the viscous fan and shroud being removed, that constant slight draw over the condenser was seemingly enough to keep the pressures down. I turned the electric rad fan thermostat right down so it was pretty on when the truck was warm and this helped the AC system pressure drop, but I don't think it was enough, I also suspect that there was too much oil in the gas, which also increases pressure.
I have a "new" (second hand) LS400 compressor, and brand new condenser, expansion valve, receiver dryer and all seals. As the old pump failed I want to totally flush out the system to make sure its 100% contaminant free, renew the seals, so it should all be good for another 20+ years. I have also got a three way sensor (Thanks Bushwacker) so I can control condenser fans intelligently when they are needed, instead of just having them, on when the AC is on. for fans I have two 8" electric units, so pressure build up doe to heat should never be an issue again! This is going to be a big job as it is dash out to clean through the evaporator, and fit the new expansion valve..
While I'm "here" mucking around with condensers and radiators, I also have two oil coolers to fit, one for transmission and one for engine oil on an external oilstat. The gearbox does slip and gets hot.. I have shimmed the shift accumulators to make the change crisper, and generate less heat but additional cooling will be beneficial.
Oil Stat.
I am replacing the factory Lexus oil take off with a direct take off created by out very own Scott.. Thanks buddy!
It is a similar design to this, but engineered to far more OCD levels
I'm also toying with the idea of moving the oil filter to below the engine. It caused no problems where it is, but that would free up some extra space, and mean I don't get oil all over the inner wing whenever I change it (no matter how careful I am)
It's been over three years now, largely it has been 100% flawless. I'm in the "refining stage" now.
- I had a very small intermittent start up problem right at the beginning which was due to tank residue on the fuel pump connector (the diesel tanks are pre wired for a petrol fuel pump, but as there was no plug on the pin, the metal was tarnished and increased resistance. It ran fine once once started, but the Walbro pumps draw a fair bit on spin up, and it sometimes didn't, usually did on the second or third attempt). replacement plug and its been perfect since!
- I have struggled with the silicone hoses sealing. It's a common issue as silicone natively doesn't seal as well as rubber, and the shape of my radiator feed hose means its made of lots of connections and angles (its awkward due to the front intake of the VVTi)
- The air con pump failed!
All in all I think that's not bad. I'm kicking myself for the dirty fuel pump contacts as that's the only one that might be considered as a "failure" i.e. it meant the thing didn't start.
Coolant hoses:
The connectors sucked. Smooth alloy swaged at each end. they were supplied by the same supplier as the hose (quality not great I'd say) so I replaced them with some machined, ridged ones. These will hopefully deform the inner part of the hose for a better seal without needing any extra sealant, and stop things sliding under pressure. I also replaced the non branded Ebay hose clamps with proper Mikalor stainless ones. These seem to provide a more even clamping pressure (even though the design looks almost identical) and are sturdier so I can seriously tighten them up!
All hose parts were cleaned, one part was replaced as it had expanded against the radiator and worn slightly (due to connector slide).
This has helped, but I still get the odd drip, its absolutely fine under pressure. I have contacted a couple of suppliers about getting a custom silicone hose made up, to save on failure points/connections/mess/ballache to install. I had originally used Hylomar Blue to help sealing on the "smooth" connectors, it helped sealing, but meant that the hoses slid out under pressure. I'm loathed to use silicone sealant as that just seams a bit of a bodge. Another option I might investigate is welded alloy tube, or replicate the same thing with rubber angles that will seal better. It's messy I don't like this bit. While I'm at it if I can get custom tubes done, I'd also like to replace the intake piping to get rid of the extra clamps and sections.
I also want to look at fabbing up an aluminium (probably) fan shroud so I can make a neater job and not fix the fan via the radiator matrix. its worked find but its another detail I don't like. If I had a fan shroud I could also make securing brackets for the hoses.
I believe the reason that the AC pump failed was due to running excessively high pressure when stationary. From factory my truck never had a condenser fan (did any 3rd gens?). With the viscous fan and shroud being removed, that constant slight draw over the condenser was seemingly enough to keep the pressures down. I turned the electric rad fan thermostat right down so it was pretty on when the truck was warm and this helped the AC system pressure drop, but I don't think it was enough, I also suspect that there was too much oil in the gas, which also increases pressure.
I have a "new" (second hand) LS400 compressor, and brand new condenser, expansion valve, receiver dryer and all seals. As the old pump failed I want to totally flush out the system to make sure its 100% contaminant free, renew the seals, so it should all be good for another 20+ years. I have also got a three way sensor (Thanks Bushwacker) so I can control condenser fans intelligently when they are needed, instead of just having them, on when the AC is on. for fans I have two 8" electric units, so pressure build up doe to heat should never be an issue again! This is going to be a big job as it is dash out to clean through the evaporator, and fit the new expansion valve..
While I'm "here" mucking around with condensers and radiators, I also have two oil coolers to fit, one for transmission and one for engine oil on an external oilstat. The gearbox does slip and gets hot.. I have shimmed the shift accumulators to make the change crisper, and generate less heat but additional cooling will be beneficial.
Oil Stat.I am replacing the factory Lexus oil take off with a direct take off created by out very own Scott.. Thanks buddy!
It is a similar design to this, but engineered to far more OCD levels
I'm also toying with the idea of moving the oil filter to below the engine. It caused no problems where it is, but that would free up some extra space, and mean I don't get oil all over the inner wing whenever I change it (no matter how careful I am)
Comment