Lexurf IV - The Second Coming

[Albannach]

KS?

KwikFit

In that case, how come Lexurf II has just got a new MOT? It's chassis number doesn't match the number on the VIN plate. I found that out when I took it for it's MOT two years ago. I got the MOT using the chassis number behind the driver's side front wheel.

I have no idea why II passed or why IV can't get tested, it's pointless arguing with them.

I'll keep trying until I get someone that will do it.

I have to stay local as it's not insured and I can't get it insured because it's not on the insurer's database either. I'm trying to find out where it was insured before.

[TonyN]

Andy, its easy to change the engine size and vin numbers, just amend the reg document, sign it and send it back to DVLA, I've done it a couple of times in the past with no hassles.

[Albannach]

Andy, its easy to change the engine size and vin numbers, just amend the reg document, sign it and send it back to DVLA, I've done it a couple of times in the past with no hassles.

Once I get the new plates made up, I'll do that. I don't understand why it's not on any of the databases though, I'm wondering if it's because it's SORNd?

[Growler]

Andy, its easy to change the engine size and vin numbers, just amend the reg document, sign it and send it back to DVLA, I've done it a couple of times in the past with no hassles.

I've tried that with V and they returned ths docs saying that want a letter from garage that the work is satisfactory duee to non standard engine install and change of fuel type

[Albannach]

Well... I now have an MOT and a huge list of advisories. The tester was very, very, fair and did all he could to help me with it. The truck was definitely not on his VOSA database, he called them to confirm. They can't explain why it's not there.

The biggest problem he had was getting the emissions down (due to the water problem). Whilst he was doing them, the truck kept overheating too, so that didn't help.

Anyway - MOT done, Insurance next...

[BUSHWHACKER]

Most excellent!

Do you have access to a compressed air line?
There's probebly water down the spark plug tubes and I've found the most effective way of getting it out is to blast it with an air line.

It was probably overheating due to the ECU constantly advancing/retarding the ignition because of the intermittant spark plug firing.

[Albannach]

I don't have here. I'll dry the tubes with paper towel, take the back 4 plugs and leads off/out and stick them in the oven for a wee while

Whilst they're cooking; I'll seal the vents.

[Black Sheep]

Congrats on getting the mot.

[TonyN]

I've tried that with V and they returned ths docs saying that want a letter from garage that the work is satisfactory duee to non standard engine install and change of fuel type

I didn't have to do that with two Rover V8 Hilux trucks I've done, insurance wanted a report, but not DVLA. Maybe a new thing, also I think they were both petrol trucks to start with though.

It's not hard to do though, I've 'signed off' lots of modified trucks with no comeback. Surely a local garage can say yes its petrol, you're not trying to dodge anything.

[Albannach]

Why wouldn't I be able to do that myself?

[Albannach]

Not updated this for a while. Thus far I have it 100% road legal. There are still issues with its running and there are a few other niggles that need fixed, I'm making a list as I find things.

The rough running is to do with the start up injector, the bad starting is to do with the Idle Up doofer not working (it closes, but won't open).

Vince - Is it OK to remove the VSV Circled in this picture? It has something to do with a valve on the O/S fuel rail.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Leave that connected, it controls the fuel pressure regulator on the O/S fuel rail.

You can run a vac hose from the top of that VSV (centre of your red circle) direct to the F/P regulator and bypass those thin metal tubes that run around the front of the inlet plenum.
The bottom vac hose on that VSV goes to the front of the plenum.

You can junk everything else on the N/S of the plenum in your photo and plug any open ports on the throttle body. Join the two coolant hoses together though as they connect the front and rear water bridges. (see photo below)

[Albannach]

I've disconnected everything else and fixed the hose. I was playing around with that VSV and it seemed to be active at startup (until I disconnected that STA wire for testing), that's why I left it connected.

Next on my radar is the Idle Speed Controller thingy, that's an ECU thing (I think) as it will close, but not open. Then I'll try to get the Cold start injector working properly. Once all that's done, it's off to the tuning man, he wants to play around with it on his old machine

[BUSHWHACKER]

Next on my radar is the Idle Speed Controller thingy, that's an ECU thing (I think) as it will close, but not open. Then I'll try to get the Cold start injector working properly. Once all that's done, it's off to the tuning man, he wants to play around with it on his old machine

The IdleAirControlValve on the front of the plenum?

It's serviceable to a degree, there's a small bearing inside that can get gummed up and partially seize, plus a stepper motor. Just remove the three screws and two coolant hoses to pull it off the engine then there's another three tiny machine screws holding it all together.
Later engines ('94>) have a sealed, non serviceable version.

You should hear it buzz or rapidly click when you switch the engine off as it resets ready for the next start up. It's controlled by the ECU via the EFI coolant temp sensor. (the green one)

[Albannach]

You should hear it buzz or rapidly click when you switch the engine off as it resets ready for the next start up. It's controlled by the ECU via the EFI coolant temp sensor. (the green one)

It doesn't re-open once it's closed, I've cleaned it up and replaced both the bearings.

I asked on Lextreme, see if anyone there had any ideas (I wasn't expecting you to be up). When I get up today, I'll check to see what the outputs from the ECU are doing when I swtch the ignition off.