1kz-te Starting Problem

[shawthorn]

Hi, having looked at the forum I can see this is a problem that has occurred before so I have already done some analysis anyway here is the summary.

Toyota KZN185 1KZ-TE 3.0 Turbo 1996

Started first time in March, but has stood for about four/five months and now following new battery, will crank but not start.

I have researched on forum and done the following.
Cracked injector, but there is no fuel arriving when engine is cranked. Cracked inlet on top of fuel pump and fuel squirts out when fuel pump primer operated.

Engine starts with 12V direct connection from battery. ECU visually checked.

So the question is what does this tell us. Can I assume that the fuel pump/SPV is not likely to be the problem and that the focus should be on the electrical systems that control the fuel management.

Presumably the approach should be cheapest and easiest first (before jumping to the ECU conclusion) i.e. fuses and relays related to the fuel system should be checked? Which ones specifically?

Any other advice on this problem would be most welcome.

Are there any Surf owners in the Guildford, UK area who would be prepared to lend an ECU for testing?

Cheers, Boris

[oldmareng]

You say it starts wiht a direct 12V supply? Where do your supply to live/earth only or both? I must try and ask as I have the same problem. Additionally not all the usual console indicator lights come on when I turn the ignition on.

Some threads here inicate potentila immobiliser problem, but surely it would not crank?

[bryanisaoldgit]

ECU

[budweiser]

have you checked all earth cables?

[shawthorn]

Update

Hi Guys, thanks for your replies...

I forgot to say, no error codes were present when checked. I.e. when diagnostic points TE1 and E1 were connected with a jumper there were no error codes on the dash 'engine check light'.

So ...today I went and re-checked fuses, relays and general connections. Nothing was particularly corroded or dirty.

Connected the red and black leads going to the Spill Control Valve directly to the battery terminals, red -> live (+) and black to negative on the battery. The engine started normally and ran.

What is interesting is that it did not rev uncontrollably and the 'driver' (my missus) was able to hold the revs at 1000 rpm in a controlled way. We didn't drive the car.

So does this suggest that the ECU is doing its job of managing the fuel intake. Does the the fuel pump take a power input and an input from the ECU or are they one and the same.
Does this give us any better clue as to the problem?

Very happy to take any advice from other owners.

[shawthorn]

immobiliser

oldmareng

Regarding the immobiliser, I think mine would not crank if it was an immobiliser problem, but I think it depends if it is factory fitted or added afterwards.

The user 'Silver Surfer' had the same problem and it turned out to be an immobiliser cable.

[bryanisaoldgit]

ecuor ecu connections

[Bogus]

oldmareng

Regarding the immobiliser, I think mine would not crank if it was an immobiliser problem, but I think it depends if it is factory fitted or added afterwards.

The user 'Silver Surfer' had the same problem and it turned out to be an immobiliser cable.

Mine has an aftermarket immobiliser fitted and it will crank if the immobiliser is active but just not start.

[shawthorn]

ecuor ecu connections

Wouldn't the fact that the engine ran normally (with 12v bypass connection from the battery) suggest that the ECU is working?

[shawthorn]

have you checked all earth cables?

I checked the battery earth but (which seems ok) which other ones would you suggest?

[yorta2]

Wouldn't the fact that the engine ran normally (with 12v bypass connection from the battery) suggest that the ECU is working?

No, not necessarily. I had a similar problem, and my car started and run via a direct connection to the battery, but it was my ecu that was at fault.

[shawthorn]

Thanks Yorta2 for your reply,

How did you diagnose the ECU problem?
Did you test it yourself or send it off to an ECU specialist. Does the 'start with direct 12v' suggest that the fuel pump is ok?

I'm trying to figure out what the best way to pinpoint the problem.

Thanks a lot, Boris

[yorta2]

I had previously purchased another ecu that I was going to replace all the capacitors in, so fitted that and the car started instantly. Now I have to put the caps in the broken one

[shawthorn]

Since I last posted, I have found that the spill control valve relay was not working. It was clicking shut but the contacts were corroded so there was no continuity between them.

Having cleaned the contacts, retested and replaced it I tried to start it last night, but it was hesitant and the battery drained out. So, battery is on charge and i will try again today.

My concern now is that I have burnt out the solenoid on the SPV, (by putting 12V to it), although the resistance test on the SPV contacts gave a reading of 2.1 ohms which is in tolerance I think.

Anyway I will try again today.

[shawthorn]

PROBLEM RESOLUTION - Corroded SPV relay.

Having found a corroded SPV relay, I tested it using a digital multi-meter and found that although the relay was closing the contacts, there was no continuity and therefore the 'switching' effect was not working.

Anyone unfamiliar with testing relays should have a look at the following video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWmt6gorzUg

The car ran this evening with a newly charged battery, and was driven about 6km without any problem. So it appears the ECU and SPV solenoid are ok and the problem was the SPV relay.

Thanks again for the responses from everybody.