fuel priming

[Albannach]

Bring it here tomorrow and we can do a nose-to-nose check on everything you disturbed.

[KERRSURF]

Will I drag it down with a rope?



I'll be here all morning if ye fancy a wee nosey at it.

[Albannach]

Will I drag it down with a rope?

Would be easier than getting a crane in to move mine...

I'll be here all morning if ye fancy a wee nosey at it.

Afternoon is a probable, I have stuff and sh1t to do in the morning.

[KERRSURF]

I'll be away from 1 mate, maybe next day if you are around.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Would be easier than getting a crane in to move mine...



Afternoon is a probable, I have stuff and sh1t to do in the morning.

How do you know you're going to need a poo in the morning, you on the Atkins?

[Albannach]

I'll be around on Tuesday too, text me. It would be 100 times easier to spot a fault if you could come here though?

[Ricksurf]

Yeah, but if you're answering my post I was talking about the Spill control valve.

Its on the back of the pump pointing up, its in the pic but not labelled.

The timer control valve will reliably show a fault code if duff, its often hard to fix on 2.4's with a used pump often only answer.

Tank vacuum as Vince mentioned in other post is a good one, try it without the fuel filler cap on.

Also, not idling and running rough is often the shutdown valve staying on while truck is running, double check all the hoses in the other thread that I answered, and try reversing the two hoses to the UFO shaped bit. The valve could be trying to choke the motor if its working backwards.

I'll double check Bobs truck i have here tomorrow with the head off in case I didn't get it right from memory the other night.

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[KERRSURF]

Thanks for that, the SCV is the one with white plug sticking out the top of pump yeh? when I get the nut off how does it come out, I had that nut off the other day and it still felt solid.

[TonyN]

Thanks for that, the SCV is the one with white plug sticking out the top of pump yeh? when I get the nut off how does it come out, I had that nut off the other day and it still felt solid.

nah, keep going backwards, its right at the back of the pump, has a 32mm flat at bottom of unit and the whole thing screws out.

What you had is the engine RPM sensor.

I had to buy a big spanner, grind it thinner and cut and weld it to a different angle to get in there.

But Ricksurf found a viscous fan hub spanner fits easier, from a Ford or something, its in one of his link above.

[KERRSURF]

Is it the part labelled distibutive plug No1 on this diagram Tony?

http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/at...7&d=1279491944

[TonyN]

hang on, left me edit the pic so its easy to see...

[TonyN]

here..

[KERRSURF]

Thanks Tony, off to have a look

[KERRSURF]

Right I'll need to fab a spanner to fit that.

Meanwhile I did the filter washer again, filter was clean on inspection and washer put behind the filter (fiddly wee thing)

Car would start and rev but we noticed that it would idle on 'idle up' but then after a few minutes the 'idle up' would cut out, it would go back to normal idle speed (around 750 rpm)
When holding revs steady we also noticed that the rev counter would start to waver, dipping from 3,000 rpm held on throttle down to 2,400 and back up and keep wavering just before the engine would die, no change in engine revs was heard, it stayed constant.

Could the ECU be shutting the engine down because of a bad signal from/to the rev counter?

[BUSHWHACKER]

I don't think the RPM signal goes through the ECU.
A bad fuel delivery signal would.