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  • #31
    Originally posted by mongyboz View Post
    80 mph my a** I've got a 2.4 td SSR-G that will do that purrs at ninety to a ton just ask my wife who nearly shit herself when she saw how fast we were going down the M6 on the way back from camping with 3 kids and one stupid dog in the back lol.
    Next time let the dog drive.

    Nev.

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    • #32
      After a nice period of trouble free motoring (apart from the leak) I got another increase in temperature this time going north on the M1 to Sheffield.

      On this occasion I never exceeded 70mph, the weather was hot, I tried to keep the turbo light off as much as possible.

      I have taken on board all comments and thoughts mentioned previously and thank you all but one thing I have noticed is heat inside the cab near the footwell. Is this normal?

      This I figure is the auto gearbox? I've checked the fluid level for this and it reads fine but how is the gearbox supposed to be cooled? I read the radiator cools the fluid somehow but I didn't get it
      Leaky Surf

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      • #33
        Originally posted by Mark7081 View Post
        I've checked the fluid level for this and it reads fine but how is the gearbox supposed to be cooled? I read the radiator cools the fluid somehow but I didn't get it
        .
        Attached Files

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        • #34
          Cheers Vince. I see, do these pipes convey engine coolant to the transmission or atf to the radiator and if the latter is there some sort of separate core in the radiator?

          Also while on the subject of transmission cooling how do the separate cooling things work that I've heard of.

          Thanks again
          Leaky Surf

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          • #35
            There's a seperate cooling tube built into the bottom of the radiator that the ATF circulates through.

            If you want to fit an additional/stand alone ATF cooler, see diagram below.

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            • #36
              Been a while but still have no heater heat.

              Just had the water pump replaced on the presumption that it may have been a slipping plastic impeller which I thought made sense ie it spins enough when normal driving but not enough under load or to push hot water through the heater matrix.

              Needless to say I was very happy to discover that a) the old pump was all metal and fine b) I still have a luke-warm heater c) I paid good money for the new water pump and garage time.

              So while cruising these pages to find details of the last resort plan of replacing the heater matrix (which I know is a massive ball ache) I had a thought which I would like your thoughts on.

              I have already had the system flushed and I presonally have flushed/back flushed the heater matrix too but figure there could be crud still in there preventing heat. My idea is to hook up a wet/dry vacuum cleaner to the in-situ matrix and try and suck the s*** out of it, adding water through the other hose as required.

              Is this any good? Anyone else (daft enough) to have done this? Am I wasting my time?

              Opinions always welcome.
              Leaky Surf

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              • #37
                Have you checked that all the ducting works on the heater flaps ? Under the dash in the drivers footwell you should see the cables moving as you select the various heater options (screen / footwell etc)

                Rob.

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                • #38
                  Hi Rob,

                  Funny you should mention that but not long after I posted this I read a thread mentioning this.

                  I presumed that when you move the lever to hot on the controller it just opened the valve on the inlet pipe in the engine bay (which I know it does), but didn't realise there was a flap it opened as well.

                  I shall inspect this flap before I try any hoovering

                  BTW, do I have to dismantle anything to get at this flap?
                  Leaky Surf

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                  • #39
                    the hot / cold selecter on the heater controls does go direct to the heater valve on the bulkhead.

                    The buttons above the hot/cold lever control a cable that moves the various flaps in the heater ducting to control where the hot air goes.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by wishbone View Post
                      the hot / cold selecter on the heater controls does go direct to the heater valve on the bulkhead.

                      The buttons above the hot/cold lever control a cable that moves the various flaps in the heater ducting to control where the hot air goes.
                      Correct for all the ducting and flaps except the main duct door for incoming air. This is the one just after the fan housing and operates on another cable in conjunction with the heater valve cable. It has a spring attached to the lever and the default setting is cold air if cable is disconnected or not operating. Easy to see if this is working by just looking under the housing in the passenger side footwell.

                      Nev.

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