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  • Egr

    I'm in the process of replacing my LN130 head, so I reckon now would be the time to lose the EGR kit in total & blank off the ports. However this may be mechanically simple but is there any other work involved other than blanking off the vac pipe. No doubt this has been gone thru already, but an up to date answer may be better, what are the long term effects etc. Ta.

  • #2
    http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/articles.php?rid=6

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    • #3
      Has anyone removed the whole lot like in the link? Ive cable tied off one of the pipes so far for about a year but like the idea of getting rid of what I dont use - worth doing?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by craigH View Post
        Has anyone removed the whole lot like in the link?
        I bally well hope so. It would have been a bugger to take those pics if not.

        Ive cable tied off one of the pipes so far for about a year but like the idea of getting rid of what I dont use - worth doing?
        In my opinion, definitely. The vac pipe setup in that write-up also has an updated layout, (thanks to Rich W, Nev and some other chaps on the Oz site), which prevents the little judder on shutdown which used to be associated with full E.G.R disconnection.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by craigH View Post
          Has anyone removed the whole lot like in the link? Ive cable tied off one of the pipes so far for about a year but like the idea of getting rid of what I dont use - worth doing?
          Using the cable tie method is pointless if the EGR is stuck open?
          Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Albannach View Post
            Using the cable tie method is pointless if the EGR is stuck open?
            Yup. Blocking off at least one of the ports, (at absolute minimum), is the only option if that happens.

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            • #7
              Thanks for that Matt, invaluable info. I guess the central heating plumbing in pic3 is to bleed the cooling system.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Bazza52 View Post
                I guess the central heating plumbing in pic3 is to bleed the cooling system.
                Yup. Bleed or fill. The right hand fitting is a straight air bleed vent and the left hand fitting is a drain tap. This is a pic of the beastie when it had just been made:

                Last edited by MattF; 16 November 2009, 19:12.

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                • #9
                  Excelent link, thanks for the replies just kicking myself I didnt do it a few weeks ago when I changed my head, Im going to do this mod on the weekend but doing it on the bench would be so much easier, I say you got it the right way round Bazza - any extra room in the engine bay is a bonus! Thinking of removing the air con next, never use that either

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by craigH View Post
                    just kicking myself I didnt do it a few weeks ago when I changed my head
                    It would have been easier. Other than getting those two nuts off the exhaust manifold, the rest ain't too bad to do though, so it's still easily doable.

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                    • #11
                      Must of cost a bomb in Brasso Good idea tho, mmmm should I, or is there a patent on it.

                      Re aircon, mine was removed before I got it, the whole lot from under the bonnet gone. With the EGR gone as well there should be room to party under there.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Bazza52 View Post
                        Must of cost a bomb in Brasso
                        I do tend to be a tad overzealous on the polishing front Well worth fitting one if you're contemplating it, rather than giving it a miss. You might never use it, but it always there if you need to. There is also the original design that mine was based on which just has a bleed valve. This is the other type:



                        Can't remember who did that one originally, but it was another member on here. Personally, I'd suggest the former of the two. Couple of things I would suggest if you make one, btw.

                        1) Solder a ground wire to the unit and make sure you ground it well.
                        2) Those brass olives. Get a compression blanking plug for capping pipes and use that to ever so slightly compress them before you pop them on and solder them up. You only need a slight nip on them. It's just to remove the play in them and make them a good, solid fit. Plumbing fittings tend to be a loose fit as supplied, (which is why those olives look slightly skewed on that pic above). I never used that method with the first unit, but did with the double unit.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for that Matt, have got the bits to do the head now apart from more shims, will pop into main stealer for them then call at B&Q for the plumbing bits. Just found a lapping kit on ebay for £3.75 as mine was getting tatty. Will I be up and running before xmas? I bl%$dy hope so, but depends on weather.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Albannach View Post
                            Using the cable tie method is pointless if the EGR is stuck open?
                            How do you tell if the valve is stuck open ? I disconnected a small pipe at the rear of the engine bay as recommended by another member, is that sufficient if the valve is/was working.

                            Surf K Reg LN130 2.4 AUTO

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                            • #15
                              location of pipe

                              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/ABCD0016.jpg
                              Last edited by nigel129; 22 November 2009, 11:27.
                              Surf K Reg LN130 2.4 AUTO

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