bleed valve (someone help im going mad!)

[dieselboy]

ok, so since i had my free flow exhaust done the boost keeps going up to 14psi. when i notice this on the gauge i immediately let off so i dont risk any damage.
the previous owner had done the actuator washer mod with 3 washers on each bolt and he had also fitted a bleed valve type thingy.
the bleed valve has 2 hoses on it. one goes on to the turbo (i think this hose sees the current boost pressure) this connects to the brass valve with a screw on it to adjust the boost pressure, and another hose goes on to the actuator.
i was told to wind this valve all the way in to lower the boost pressure and then gradually wind it out bit by bit and drive the car to see how it goes. so i wound it all the way in from where it was (about half a turn) and i still over boost to 14psi
so i decided to take the washers out of the acutator. i took 2 out of each side. it hasnt made any difference, i still get to 14psi.
ive done a search of the forum and havnt found anything i could use..
so i thought may be my valve is backward, so i wound it out to half way and its still the same.- 14psi.
i cant put my foot to the floor or else the boost goes too high, and if i dont back off quickly then the red light comes on. im supposed to be going off road this weekend and wont be able to if i dont get this sorted, and i wont be able to drive on the motorway either!
someone?
im not even sure the valve is wired up to the right place

[BUSHWHACKER]

ok, so since i had my free flow exhaust done the boost keeps going up to 14psi. when i notice this on the gauge i immediately let off so i dont risk any damage.
the previous owner had done the actuator washer mod with 3 washers on each bolt and he had also fitted a bleed valve type thingy.
the bleed valve has 2 hoses on it. one goes on to the turbo (i think this hose sees the current boost pressure) this connects to the brass valve with a screw on it to adjust the boost pressure, and another hose goes on to the actuator.
i was told to wind this valve all the way in to lower the boost pressure and then gradually wind it out bit by bit and drive the car to see how it goes. so i wound it all the way in from where it was (about half a turn) and i still over boost to 14psi
so i decided to take the washers out of the acutator. i took 2 out of each side. it hasnt made any difference, i still get to 14psi.
ive done a search of the forum and havnt found anything i could use..
so i thought may be my valve is backward, so i wound it out to half way and its still the same.- 14psi.
i cant put my foot to the floor or else the boost goes too high, and if i dont back off quickly then the red light comes on. im supposed to be going off road this weekend and wont be able to if i dont get this sorted, and i wont be able to drive on the motorway either!
someone?
im not even sure the valve is wired up to the right place

Maybe the boost pressure sensor is knackered.

It's bolted to the inner wing between the power steering reservoir and the air cleaner. Check that a vac pipe hasn't come off somewhere or an electrical connector

[dieselboy]

Maybe the boost pressure sensor is knackered.

It's bolted to the inner wing between the power steering reservoir and the air cleaner. Check that a vac pipe hasn't come off somewhere or an electrical connector

the 'what' now?
is this on the passenger side? how would i find it, could i trace a vacuum hose or something?
how does this boost pressure sensor work and what does it do?

[hiroler]

its a small black box looks a bit like a relay just behind the air filter mine has a red sticker on it.

[NiftyNev]

Remove the remaining washer and the bleed valve. Replace the hose on the waste gate actuator and turbo as original. Drive and see what happens. Turbo Sensor does not control boost it only registers it to adjust fueling. If it still overboosts then maybe the waste gate is stuck closed.

Nev

[dieselboy]

ok i have some pictures. i found the block.
there is a hose on this that is connected to the boost gauge and to somewhere on the inlet via a T-piece. see picture 164.jpg
picture 165.jpg shows what must be the pressure sensor.
161.jpg shows the start of the bleed valves connections. this is the front of the turbo where it sucks air in.
162.jpg is the bleed valve itself. the yellow hose on the bottom is connected to picture 161.jpg
picture 163.jpg shows where the hose on the top right of picture 162.jpg connects to - the actuator..

my friend has just said if the boost is electronically controlled then the bleed valve wouldnt do anything... ?

[dieselboy]

Remove the remaining washer and the bleed valve. Replace the hose on the waste gate actuator and turbo as original. Drive and see what happens. Turbo Sensor does not control boost it only registers it to adjust fueling. If it still overboosts then maybe the waste gate is stuck closed.

Nev

ok i will do this. thanks for the help you lot.
just to make sure - once the bleed valve is off, would i join the actuator up to the turbo like in pictures 161.jpg and 163.jpg
- 161
- 163

[TonyN]

my friend has just said if the boost is electronically controlled then the bleed valve wouldnt do anything... ?

It isn't, it preset at the factory in how the wastegate is set up, and worked by the small yellow hose that loops across your intake pipe, from the front of the turbo and goes to the wastegate. Normally you fit the bleed valve in this peice of pipe.

How yours is set up, the valve is trying to reduce intake pressure at the intake manifold, with it plumbed into the boost pressure sensor pipe, with IMHO seems a rubbish way to do it, not working the wastegate to reduce boost like it should.

[dieselboy]

It isn't, it preset at the factory in how the wastegate is set up, and worked by the small yellow hose that loops across your intake pipe, from the front of the turbo and goes to the wastegate. Normally you fit the bleed valve in this peice of pipe.

How yours is set up, the valve is trying to reduce intake pressure at the intake manifold, with it plumbed into the boost pressure sensor pipe, with IMHO seems a rubbish way to do it, not working the wastegate to reduce boost like it should.

my hose comes off the turbo into the bottom of the bleed valve, then the top of the bleed valve connects to the waste gate actuator.
im not sure if thats what you meant, but this is how my thingy is connected:

[dieselboy]

may be its worth adding that sometimes if i put my foot down the boost will go to like 13 or 14psi then come back to 12psi and sit there until my RPM goes over 3000 then it goes up to 14 again.

[NiftyNev]

once the bleed valve is off, would i join the actuator up to the turbo like in pictures 161.jpg and 163.jpg

Yes.

Your boost gauge setup is ok as far as I can see. I however prefer it to be teed into the Pressure Sensor hose after the little filter attached to the clip.

Nev

[dieselboy]

Yes.

Your boost gauge setup is ok as far as I can see. I however prefer it to be teed into the Pressure Sensor hose after the little filter attached to the clip.

Nev

i dont have pictures of that, but i traced it back.
im guessing originally the pressure sensor goes to filter thingy i took the picture of and its the one with the yellow hose coming out the bottom next to the gear box dipstick.. well there is a Tpiece on this and the boost gauge is connecter here.

when i leave work ill go and dis my bleed valve and see whats happeneing.
is it worth me spraying somewhere on the actuator with wd-40 in case its stuck?

[NiftyNev]

is it worth me spraying somewhere on the actuator with wd-40 in case its stuck?

Not really. You need to determine what the problem is if it's not working. The waste gate itself may be stuck or it could even be the diaphragm in the actuator has a hole in it. If the waste gate is stuck you will need to remove the heat shield and find out why or see if you can move it manually. If the diaphragm in the actuator has a hole you will need to replace the actuator. All this may not be necessary if you remove the bleed valve and everything works. If it does then the bleed valve would not have been working.

Nev

[dieselboy]

Not really. You need to determine what the problem is if it's not working. The waste gate itself may be stuck or it could even be the diaphragm in the actuator has a hole in it. If the waste gate is stuck you will need to remove the heat shield and find out why or see if you can move it manually. If the diaphragm in the actuator has a hole you will need to replace the actuator. All this may not be necessary if you remove the bleed valve and everything works. If it does then the bleed valve would not have been working.

Nev

ok thanks for your detailed help. i will disconnect the bleed valve later when i finish work - about 6 hours. and see what happens.
ill post back later

[TonyN]

my hose comes off the turbo into the bottom of the bleed valve, then the top of the bleed valve connects to the waste gate actuator.
im not sure if thats what you meant, but this is how my thingy is connected:

Yeah, I see, cos the small filter to manifold barb was yellow hose I though it was connected to the other yellow hoses.

Like Nev said, try the guage T'ed into the hose by the pressure sensor, that way its reading pressure from the same place as the ECU.