Help needed

[smithg]

Egr.

Thanks Fella's,
Blimey, I've spent an hour reading up on this, hmmm!
Well I've a confession to make, I did notice the EGR vacumm pipes had become very loose whilst putting it all back together and changed them for some nice tight fitting non-standard jobbies BEFORE I started her, after fitting the pump and t/belt. Is it worth disconnecting this to see if she runs better? I only really want to eliminate the Diesel knock at this stage? N/B After I flushed out the runnning-in oil I noticed the new oil got very sotty quickly! (before my problem) Could this be the Pump timing or the EGR was working properly?
Where to you put the blanking of bolt? No thoughts on Pump timing?

Gary.

[smithg]

Has Anyone Done Pump Tming?????

Hi all,
Have I touched a raw nerve? or is pump timing the last taboo?
Several times during my long & boring tale of woe I've asked questions on this subject but everyone declines to comment. My info from a highly respected enginneer is that this is absolutely essential when the pump has been removed, yet the Pump specialist thought not, (mind you, he didn't believe the pump was electronic!) and nobody's offered any advice! After reading some of the highly advanced technical stuff on the forum I'm frankly surprised. I am convinced this is worth doing as a last resort before I throw the engine back at the reconditioners. HELP!!
Gary.

[Guest]

Hi all,
Have I touched a raw nerve? or is pump timing the last taboo?
Several times during my long & boring tale of woe I've asked questions on this subject but everyone declines to comment. My info from a highly respected enginneer is that this is absolutely essential when the pump has been removed, yet the Pump specialist thought not, (mind you, he didn't believe the pump was electronic!) and nobody's offered any advice! After reading some of the highly advanced technical stuff on the forum I'm frankly surprised. I am convinced this is worth doing as a last resort before I throw the engine back at the reconditioners. HELP!!
Gary.

Gary.

I think the lack of comment on the pump timing is cos no-one has had it done. They don't tend to go out of proper setting unless they are removed. When the Timing belt is replaced it doesn't affect the pump timing and I am not even sure they are adjustable on the car anyway. But then I am speaking from a total lack of knowledge here on the Surf. I have worked on other Diesels where the pump timing was adjustable and it was absolutely imperative that the timing was spot on to make the motor run quiet. However one of the things that I did learn from a particular motor (Mazda Van) was that when the engine is running well, it will be relatively noisy - i.e. you should get some diesel knock otherwise the engine is running too far retarded. If it is ruinning with the pump timing too far advanced then you will get heavy pre-ignition and a heavier knock. If it is too far retarded then it will sound like a petrol engine and drive like a tractor.

Cheers

[smithg]

Diesel Pump Timing.

Thanks Andy,
An honest answer is better than no-comment!
Whilst searching the forum I did notice that someone wrote that the pump is bench (out the car) set-up, which has been done to mine. however, once the pump is removed I think the plunger stroke must be set up to the engine timing (45 btdc). My pump body has some incremental marks on which show quite a band for adjustment, and most importantly with the two pump-to- block nuts & the rear nut undone, it can move foward to the engine, and outwards away from the engine over this band. I seriously suspect that despite an overhaul, because the pump came from my original engine this adjustment must be the answer. My problem is how, and with what tools?
Gary

[gemini]

Thanks Andy,
An honest answer is better than no-comment!
Whilst searching the forum I did notice that someone wrote that the pump is bench (out the car) set-up, which has been done to mine. however, once the pump is removed I think the plunger stroke must be set up to the engine timing (45 btdc). My pump body has some incremental marks on which show quite a band for adjustment, and most importantly with the two pump-to- block nuts & the rear nut undone, it can move foward to the engine, and outwards away from the engine over this band. I seriously suspect that despite an overhaul, because the pump came from my original engine this adjustment must be the answer. My problem is how, and with what tools?
Gary

there is a special tool to do this, on the pump body is a nut which you take out and the tool screws in, it is spring loaded on the end, with the engine at tdc (all the timing marks lined up), the pump is moved back or forth and the tool lines up with a hole on the centre of the pump on the main shaft, this sets the pump in the correct place and it can then be tightened up,
to set the pump without this tool, pump bolts must be left loose and with the engine running the pump moved back or forth till the engine sounds right, as andy says too far advanced it will be knocking loud, retard the pump then till you get the right sound and no smoke and you wont be far out

[Guest]

Thanks Andy,
An honest answer is better than no-comment!
Whilst searching the forum I did notice that someone wrote that the pump is bench (out the car) set-up, which has been done to mine. however, once the pump is removed I think the plunger stroke must be set up to the engine timing (45 btdc). My pump body has some incremental marks on which show quite a band for adjustment, and most importantly with the two pump-to- block nuts & the rear nut undone, it can move foward to the engine, and outwards away from the engine over this band. I seriously suspect that despite an overhaul, because the pump came from my original engine this adjustment must be the answer. My problem is how, and with what tools?
Gary

Gary.

I've just done some searching on the Toyota Australia Surf forum and it seems that everything has to be done on a bench by a specialist and that on the EFI pump the only thing that can be adjusted is the maximum fuel delivery, the rest is done by the ECU so presumably the adjustment on the bolts is incidental and any movement should be compensated by the ECU. Not sure if taht will help.

Cheers

[smithg]

Doh, Doh, Doh!

Thanks Andy,
I prefer Ians answer as that gives me hope! I understand what the Aussies are saying, and that ties up with the pump peoples verdict.
However, my engineer friend thinks different and there are those markers on the pump body! My Aussie Haynes book gives a number of a tool 09275-54010 which coupled with a dail gauge (where do I get one of these?) should do the Job, BUT. although this refers to a late 2L engine it is not a direct reference to a T/D EFI Therefore the settings could be wrong and my model be set by the ECU as you've said. Doh!! I could try the totally scientific twist by hand option, or there is that N/Z company to e-mail. any other ideas would be appreciated.
Gary.

[smithg]

Technical info desperately needed!

My local Pump specialist has had a re-think! IF!!! I can provide the dial-gauge/plunger stroke settings he is fairly confident the pump can be set up correctly! this is a denso pump in a Dec 1992 LN 130W 2LTE EFI engine in an Automatic vehicle.
Any hope of this info????
Gary.

[smithg]

Dead end .....Again!

The bench setting/ ECU theory is probably true unfortunately! That leaves me straight up ***t creak again! The engine reconditioner cannot supply any Pump timing/ dail gauge/ plunger stroke data, and I've got to dismiss the "twist the pump" technique as the ECU will be compensating as I twist!
I am tempted to set the pump to the Aussie haynes manual spec for the later 2L engine and see what happens? At least I can return it to the current scribbed setting. I will get someone with an ear for Diesel knock to listen on the vague chance it is something else, if not then my seven month quest has achieved nothing and I've got a pile of highly polished immaculate scrap!
Gary.

[Guest]

The bench setting/ ECU theory is probably true unfortunately! That leaves me straight up ***t creak again! The engine reconditioner cannot supply any Pump timing/ dail gauge/ plunger stroke data, and I've got to dismiss the "twist the pump" technique as the ECU will be compensating as I twist!
I am tempted to set the pump to the Aussie haynes manual spec for the later 2L engine and see what happens? At least I can return it to the current scribbed setting. I will get someone with an ear for Diesel knock to listen on the vague chance it is something else, if not then my seven month quest has achieved nothing and I've got a pile of highly polished immaculate scrap!
Gary.

Gary.

Not sure if this has been mentioned before, however there is a crankshaft position sensor on the 2L engine, I am making a stab in the dark here but this has something to do with the ECU and how it adjusts the timing. If this Crank position sensor is malfunctioning then it would probably put the pump timing out compared to where it should be and maybe cause the knock.

If it's been suggested before and tried then I'm sorry, if not then it may be worth a go.

Cheers

[smithg]

Crankshaft Sensor!!!!! Photo's Help?

Cheers Andy,
Another glimmer of hope! I remember someone led me to a N/Z site which dealt with diagnostic equipment, this had a severly edited case scenario where the ECU was suspected and I believe the Crank sensor was mentioned here.
Unfortunately when I visited this site yesterday you had to enrole and buy equipment before they give out any info!
Anyone got any info on this sensor and its location? My local Toyota dealer could get this for me as his disc has got every nut & bolt for my Surf on it.
Probably loads of money but could be the answer!
Gary.

[stevo]

crank sensor

Cheers Andy,
Another glimmer of hope! I remember someone led me to a N/Z site which dealt with diagnostic equipment, this had a severly edited case scenario where the ECU was suspected and I believe the Crank sensor was mentioned here.
Unfortunately when I visited this site yesterday you had to enrole and buy equipment before they give out any info!
Anyone got any info on this sensor and its location? My local Toyota dealer could get this for me as his disc has got every nut & bolt for my Surf on it.
Probably loads of money but could be the answer!
Gary.

Crank sensor is £40ish from Toyota, but I don't think this is your problem because normally if the sensor is faulty your engine will run but not rev up.

cheers Steve.

[smithg]

Crankshaft Position Sensor.WHERE??

Thanks Steve,
I'd spoken to Toyota and it's £30something plus vat. What I really wanted to know was the location of the dam thing! I didn't see anything in the sprocket area, and the Toyota guy said the parts piccy put it in the oil pump area, which I believe sits directly behind the rear timing cover (can't remember seeing one in that area). On one hand if a faulty sensor limits revving then its probably not that as she has always (and still does) rev freely, But I did modify a sensor connector that lost its locking tab when I put the engine in! Toyota would only sell me a section of loom with the connector on at £300!!! this sat tucked right underneath the inlet manifold, unreachable without removing loads (familiar story!) I can't remember what this sensor did but it was roughly parallel to the crank! I thought of the rear end i.e. flexi-plate but can't picture any sensors here either! Put me out my misery, where is the bugger!
Gary.

[JimL]

where is the bugger!
Gary.

has to be here somewhere, anyone?

attached pic by Stevo of Petes naked engine passenger side

[rubblebags]

Striped

Two more pics of 2.4 1993.Sorry I know dont where it is but you can see both sides of the block.

Geoff.