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  • #16
    Originally posted by pyemaster View Post
    Also does anyone have an opinion of Steel Seal?

    Thinking it could be worth a shot...

    Owen
    Only worth a try Owen If your not keeping the Surf.

    Read the thread started by jonthefish (general section)

    Be prepared for snake oil products

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by pyemaster View Post
      Also does anyone have an opinion of Steel Seal?

      Thinking it could be worth a shot...

      Owen
      Steel seal has been covered here before.

      http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthread.php?t=81978


      See if soramad can give you a honest answer.?
      Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

      Comment


      • #18
        Thanks for the warning chaps, will avoid.

        Having the garage remove the head next week, is there a general rule of thumb with the 3 about how fragile the heads are after the gasket has gone?

        Thanks in advance.

        Owen

        Comment


        • #19
          Owen before pulling the head,have you done the sniffer test to confirm failure?


          Are you aware the surf cooling system requires bleeding & sometimes burping ?

          If not bled properly will lead to almost instant overheating

          Comment


          • #20
            Ask the bloke in the garage how he exactly filled and bled the system, I bet he never did it correctly.
            So many in the past have had similar issues after mechanics drain and refill the system via the expansion bottle just like you would on a normal car. Its different on Surf and they can be a pig at times to bleed properly.
            Say not always what you know, but always know what you say.

            My 4x4
            My choice
            Back off

            Comment


            • #21
              By the sounds of things that's what's happened. Will look into what a sniffer test is.

              Is there a handy guide of how to properly bleed the system on a Surf? I'd like to give him a copy for when he bleeds it next - it sounds like his not knowing could have cost me a grand.

              Owen

              Comment


              • #22
                Just you understand......

                2.4 and 3.0 diesel Surfs never blow head gaskets, it's always the heads that crack!

                You can bleed the cooling system for forever and a day, pour all kinds of crap into the radiator and keep shovelling cash into mechanic's hands in the hope that they will give a 'correct'/cheap diagnosis, but if there's white smoke coming from the tailpipe on a hot engine then the head is phuqed.

                All clear now?

                Comment


                • #23
                  Thanks for the definitive answer. If that's the case surely it's a catastrophically bad engine design? I thought head gaskets were in effect there as a fuse to save heads?

                  I'm willing to spend the money if it will last, however if it IS such a bad design, what's to say after getting a new head it won't just blow again?

                  Owen

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    It will only crack the head if it is allowed to overheat. Keep your coolant system in good order and the new head will last forever and a day!

                    Remember how old some of these engines are now, when's the last time you saw a twenty-odd-year-old Vauxhall/Ford etc... Catastrophic design flaw or maintenance failings and old age? Get it sorted (rad, water pump, good flush, check the fan etc.), and enjoy it for many more years.

                    My tuppence-worth, good luck with it, Ron.

                    PS, My tip for re-filling the coolant: Slowly does it (heater controls to hot), just trickle it in, and you'll hear the bubbles moving about in there. When you have filled it to the top, run the engine for a short time (cap off), you'll see bubbles form, which should quickly decrease to a white froth, then nothing. Top up (slowly) if it drops down. Cap back on, run around the block, let cool and check again. Top up if req'd. One week later, check and top up if req'd. Stay cool!
                    Last edited by ToyotaRon; 28 June 2014, 12:40.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by pyemaster View Post
                      Thanks for the definitive answer. If that's the case surely it's a catastrophically bad engine design? I thought head gaskets were in effect there as a fuse to save heads?

                      I'm willing to spend the money if it will last, however if it IS such a bad design, what's to say after getting a new head it won't just blow again?

                      Owen
                      They do,especially if the job of replacing the head is bodged.
                      They are lovely trucks to drive bur the diesel engines they have been given are not the best. There are non turbo toyota engines, 2.8 and 3.0 L that are much more durable but they were not fitted to the surf.
                      If you are sticking with surfs just avoid the 2.4s as they are the worst of both worlds: they crack easy AND they are under-powered. Your KZ TE might crack the head too, but at least you have had some fun...
                      Cheers

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I'm a Toyota enthusiast. I currently own a '92 Surf, a '93 Hiace (2.8 non-turbo, a truly great engine, but slow and steady, bit of a mobile roadblock!), and '94 Celica.

                        Past vehicles have included a '75 Hiace and '93 Liteace (Hilux running gear, went to 300,000 miles before the oil pump failed, by far the best vehicle I ever owned...)

                        I'm also a plant engineer, former aircraft engineer and home mechanic of some years experience. These old engines are good, there are farmers everywhere who swear by them, don't listen to the 2.4 haters, listen to me ok!

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by ToyotaRon View Post

                          PS, My tip for re-filling the coolant: Slowly does it (heater controls to hot), just trickle it in, and you'll hear the bubbles moving about in there. When you have filled it to the top, run the engine for a short time (cap off), you'll see bubbles form, which should quickly decrease to a white froth, then nothing. Top up (slowly) if it drops down. Cap back on, run around the block, let cool and check again. Top up if req'd. One week later, check and top up if req'd. Stay cool!
                          So much conflicting info on refilling/bleeding.
                          Best info I've received.............
                          Remove inlet pipe to heater(at bulkhead) & fill from there.
                          Remove outlet pipe from heater(at head)& watch for coolant to appear,refit hoses.
                          Fit a funnel into rad (3litre) or thermostat housing (2.4) & continue filling.
                          Leave the funnel in place & start the engine,Keep topping up funnel & watch as air expels.( bubbles of air) Do not allow funnel to empty completely.
                          when all trapped air gone.switch off engine remove funnel,refit cap.
                          Road test, recheck when cold. Job done.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by ToyotaRon View Post
                            I'm a Toyota enthusiast. I currently own a '92 Surf, a '93 Hiace (2.8 non-turbo, a truly great engine, but slow and steady, bit of a mobile roadblock!), and '94 Celica.

                            Past vehicles have included a '75 Hiace and '93 Liteace (Hilux running gear, went to 300,000 miles before the oil pump failed, by far the best vehicle I ever owned...)

                            I'm also a plant engineer, former aircraft engineer and home mechanic of some years experience. These old engines are good, there are farmers everywhere who swear by them, don't listen to the 2.4 haters, listen to me ok!
                            Words of wisdom Ron

                            "2.4 haters"

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Above method is belt and braces, love it.

                              I think you can get away without filling the heater hoses separately as long as they've been flushed separately and are known to be clear/clean. But definitely worth doing in any case.

                              Incidentally, I don't think many garages will take this level of time and care, do it yourself and know it's done right.

                              Ron.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by ToyotaRon View Post
                                I'm a Toyota enthusiast. I currently own a '92 Surf, a '93 Hiace (2.8 non-turbo, a truly great engine, but slow and steady, bit of a mobile roadblock!), and '94 Celica.

                                Past vehicles have included a '75 Hiace and '93 Liteace (Hilux running gear, went to 300,000 miles before the oil pump failed, by far the best vehicle I ever owned...)

                                I'm also a plant engineer, former aircraft engineer and home mechanic of some years experience. These old engines are good, there are farmers everywhere who swear by them, don't listen to the 2.4 haters, listen to me ok!

                                The 2.4 toyota pickup (farmer's) engine (2LT) heads are different casting to the 2.4 turbo Surf heads.(2LT-E)

                                Comment

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