Gonna get expensive :uhoh:

[shokenore]

Well after having a tinkling sound on and off since my last off road jaunt I had convinced myself I had picked up a small stone that had lodged itself in the drivers side front wheel .Off came the wheel so I could get a better look ,had a good root around the inside the disk backplate ,nothing.

Gave the wheel a couple of turns and lo and behold back comes the noise ,yep wear indicator just skimming the disk surface.Disk pads at the limit.

Quick phone call to my local motor factors they have them in stock £22.00 .


Pulled the pads out and was quite alarmed at the ridge on the pads .I am sur the last set of pads came from R/T.

After attending a front hub training session I thought while the wheel is off better have a look at the wheel bearings .
Hub stripped down and was quite surprised at the amount of play I found on the front stub axle about 1.5mm up and down.Other than the tinkling noise from the limit indicator the front end is quiet.Bearings washed and repacked with grease,till I get the time to do the bronze bushes.


Now for the question(s)
Do I whilst changing the wheel bearings and bronze bushes also change the ball joints and outer cv joint boots?

[TonyN]

Pulled the pads out and was quite alarmed at the ridge on the pads .I am sur the last set of pads came from R/T.

The ridge is no problem, there are different size disks on different year trucks, so the friction material is slightly different sized or in a slightly different position on the metal backplate, most parts places will sell one pad to save on stocks and confusion.

It makes little difference in the real world what pads you fit

If you do any reasonable amount of offroading in mud and dirt you'll be changing pads regularly, especially on an automatic truck.

[shokenore]

Thanks Tony
I was thinking along the disc diameter being different .The new pads fit flush with the edge of the disc,will be interesting to see how long these last.

It was nice being able to slowly pull the retainer pins out with a set of needle nose pliers and push the new retainer pins in by the tip of my finger as opposed to when I changed the pads last year I think they must have been bodged in with a 3lb lump hammer!!



What about the shopping list for the bearings and cv boots though unnecessary expense or wise precaution?

[NiftyNev]

Hub stripped down and was quite surprised at the amount of play I found on the front stub axle about 1.5mm up and down.Other than the tinkling noise from the limit indicator the front end is quiet.Bearings washed and repacked with grease,till I get the time to do the bronze bushes.

Outer bronze bush really does nothing to centre the stub axle so a bit of movement is normal. It's the hub flange and axle splines which centre and support it.

As Tony says the pads that overhang the disc work (had them myself for quite a while) and probably thousands of vehicles out there (not only Surfs) running around with them on, but in my opinion better to get what is the correct pad.

This thread on the Aussie site has info on pad differences.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=20489

Nev

[shokenore]

Outer bronze bush really does nothing to centre the stub axle so a bit of movement is normal. It's the hub flange and axle splines which centre and support it.

As Tony says the pads that overhang the disc work (had them myself for quite a while) and probably thousands of vehicles out there (not only Surfs) running around with them on, but in my opinion better to get what is the correct pad.

This thread on the Aussie site has info on pad differences.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=20489

Nev

Thanks for the reply
I read the posts that you linked to it did get a little heated at points!!.

The new pads fitted to the truck are not over hanging like the pictured ones and have just washed and regreased the wheel bearings on both sides now.Will wait to hear the hammer drill sound before tackling the bronze bushes.

Thanks again