cheapest lift possible?

[gwh200]

A 2 inch body lift, spend your cash on decent tyres...then when you come back from your day out, revisit your quote.

[TonyN]

Don't do it cheap, do it properly. You're still going to be driving a 2ton lump of metal at motorway speeds. (although being a 2.4 on 33's you might not anymore.. )

Get decent shocks and uprated rear coils, then fit a 2" body lift, fit your 33's on rims with a little offset as poss, no more than -30mm ish.

Then jack the front on the torsion bars as little as needed to clear the tyres, if its more than 1 1/2" then get a diff drop kit to ease front drive shaft angles and try again.

If the torsion bars are worn and the front feels weird or you are going to running a winch and winch bumper get some uprated ones, or fit ball joint spacers so you can back the torsion bar back to orginal settings.

You can cure a lot of rubbing issues by losing the side steps, trimming the inner arch liner back and pounding the sill joint ridge flat.

You want as little lift as possible, to clear the tyres you want to use, no more. Unneeded lift is pointless and only causes more issues long term.

[Kiwisurfing]

Hate to say it mate but we all say the same thing, there is no cheap proper way to safely lift the surfs

Don't do it cheap, do it properly. You're still going to be driving a 2ton lump of metal at motorway speeds.

Stick with some good grippy 31's unless you really need it and can afford to do it properly, suspension is too important to take half arse measures modifying

Used 80 series cruiser springs give about 3 to 4 inch lift. Done quite a lot down here because they can be picked up cheap. Personally think it's a bit much for the Surf though.

Even you know

what are the drawbacks of the cheapest over the best?

[muddle]

right oh, the 33s are no longer the idea, dont want a 4 inch lift, the 31 bfg mud terrains are staying put now.

im going to do a 2 inch so no need for shocks yet, i already need new springs as the arse sags, so going uprated.

i have nice info now so whats the best out of these.

2 inch lift springs or standards with spacers

and torsion bar wind up or bj spacers.

whats the best way?

thanks for the info so far

[shokenore]

right oh, the 33s are no longer the idea, dont want a 4 inch lift, the 31 bfg mud terrains are staying put now.

im going to do a 2 inch so no need for shocks yet, i already need new springs as the arse sags, so going uprated.

i have nice info now so whats the best out of these.

2 inch lift springs or standards with spacers

and torsion bar wind up or bj spacers.

whats the best way?

thanks for the info so far

If you need a good set of spring compressors you are more than welcome to borrow mine,obviously I can not be responsible for any injury or damages that may or may not occur .

IMHO
I would get the 2"plus springs and good mud tyres.
Like the others have said after you have been for a play in the mud you can work out what you will need next.

[Bazcam]

If you go standard springs with 2" spacers, ball joint spacers and 1" diff
drop, and keep the standard shocks you'll get the bit of lift you
crave and keep the factory ride.

[muddle]

but but but but but but but but what about the fronts?

ball joint spacers or torsion bars, was thinking it might be a good idea to put the plus 2 springs on the rear and 1 inch ball joint spacers on the front as the rears will sag a bit over time. so should level out?

[Growler]

would this be good for lifting a little?

or will it cause issues? its so cheap!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-hil...#ht_500wt_1054

Check tht they supply all the relevant nuts and bolts fot these as they can run the bill up unlessyou have acees to some of a suitable strength and quality.

[Bazcam]

If you go standard springs with 2" spacers,for rear the of the truck, ball joint spacers and 1"
diff drop,for the front of the truck and keep the standard shocks you'll get the bit of lift you
crave and keep the factory ride.

The downside of +2" rear springs is the harsher ride, standard rear springs
and 2" spring spacers will give you the same lift but you keep the nice comfy
ride.

Its the same with uprated torsion bars, harsher ride.
Ball joint spacers will give the same lift and keep the tension off the torsion
bars and you keep the nice comfy ride.

The diff drop helps to keep the cv's happy as the angles are reduced keeping
everything closer to factory spec.

If 2" lift is all you want, this is by far the cheapest and easiest way to go.
Some good tyres and you'll go most places the bigger lifts can go, you'll
also have a pleasant drive home.

[TonyN]

If you lift the truck 2" and keep stock springs and shocks it'll feel more wallowy round corners.

You need uprated springs and shocks to allow for the extra height and roll it causes when cornering.

Proper lift springs will keep the handling stock like while giving lift.

Spacers won't give you extra suspension travel or handling improvements, only lift.

[muddle]

right then my decision for now is..... dum du duuummm!!!!

1'' ball joint spacers on the front, 2''lift springs on the rear, and stick with the 31s and steps off.

and when the springs finally sag a bit to their comfortable position i will adjust the torsion bars to get it spot on. (hopefully only a 1/4'' adjustment on the bar.)

this way its not to excessive a lift and handling killer, not that i go fast on roads anyway, will be relatively cheap and will look a dam sight better, and the reason for the 1'' BJ spacers over 2'' is so i don't have to (don't really want to) drop the diff, will probably go down the manual hubs route soon anyway.

does this sound good? what's the opinions?

[muddle]

also with the ball joint spacers

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-hil...#ht_500wt_1287

them ones, i notice there are only 8 bolts, does this mean you only space the top ball joint out?

and as these have what look like 5 plates per side can you alter the height? it says its a 2 inch kit but can you remove the plates and lower that or are my eyeballs lying?

are these ok or are there better ones?

[TonyN]

It goes under the top ball joint only.

Don't fit more that 1 1/2" of spacers, you will only tear CV gaiters and ruin your CV joints with more.

You usually have to cut the opening out larger in the top wishbone if going full 1 1/2" of spacers.

I'd jack the torsion bars a little first, you're sticking with 31's, save your money. There is no need for to much lift on the front. Give it about an 1" for now, just to level the truck slightly with the new rear coils. There isn't a lot of point fitting ball joint spacers, they mess up the angles of the upper wishbones to the lowers, so the camber changes as the suspension cycles up and down.

All this stuff is really a bodge to get enough lift to fit bigger tyres, if you don't need it keep it as stock as poss, your wallet will thank you long term.

If you really want to spend money, freewheeling hubs are much more useful to you than ball joint spacers.

Don't lift it just to look cool, its really silly, have a truck that works and is reliable and dosn't eat tyres or steering parts every 6 months.

[POPEYE]

The spacers fit under the top wishbone and the bj like in these pics, if you go for 1 1/2" --2" you have to angle grind some of the underside of the wishbone so the spacer blocks fit snugly to the upper part, a bit arse quaking but grind a bit at a time till they fit ok, also dont forget with these spacers you will need to get the tracking and camber etc done as they will throw it out a lot,

[Diezel Weazel]

Far better to leave standard and spend money on quality mud tyres

Top Tip + remove steps (as already mentioned, cost nowt)

11+ Years of Surfs .... n Faultless to a " T " is my Yota