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  • #16
    Hi Popeye.i guess you,d have to do a load test to see what current your step draws when it has its full weight on it.if you,re using a very small recovery type winch(maybe 2000 t0 4000 lbs pull) then your winch will only be operating at a fraction of its full capacity assuming your missus doesn,t weigh the same as a small car! my sincere apologies if she does!!
    I you still think the loading could be an issue then the bulk of that wiring diagram would still be good with just the addition of contactors in line with the feed to the motor so the two switches in the circuit would only ever have control voltage running through rather than load voltage
    i,ve never had to buy the other type of switch for making and breaking the earth but would imagine theres various off the shelf versions of it for use in various machinery

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    • #17
      It's ok mate she aint too big the winch (i'll do a sort of write up with pice in the modifications section soon as i can) is a small 2000 lb "cheapo"
      the way i've rooted the steel cable is via two twin pullys and two singles as in these pics so i think thats a triple pull in boating terms, that will ease the load on the winch motor,
      one reason i mention relays is the winch cable (electric, you can see em in the pic) is thick, connecting that to regular 6.5mm spade connectors is gonna be a right bstd, the 40 amp relay i already have has large spade connections on the high power side,
      i tried to take a pic of the winch but my battery in the camers was flat
      Attached Files
      Too young to die and too old to give a toss

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      • #18
        Christ Ian! We've gotta get you a V8 fitted, even if it's just to haul all that metal work around that you've added over the years, that 2.4 must be trembling every time it hears you jangle the keys.

        Top work though.

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        • #19
          not wanting to but in but wouldn't an air ram would do the same job with no leccy bits relays and microswitches to get wet

          the air rams used in bodyshops to squeeze the filler out of gallon cans would be strong enough and can be stopped and started in any position.

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          • #20
            Thanks Vince, as for the V8! if your offerin, i'm acceptin
            seriously tho matye the old 2.4 still pulls alaong pretty good,
            hi Gary, yeah my first ideas were air rams, it's getting hold of the larger rams tho, i have one fairly large one that will be pushing the step out but the problem id have with useing one to left it is where to place it!! it'd stick down too far if it were fitted verticle'y and i couldn't figure out how to make one work a sissor type lift, my first fab up was a made up sisor lift, fine on paper but first attempt at it didn't work out, it rocked side to side too much and did nowt but jam up, so i got a smaller pair of accuride bearing runners
            Attached Files
            Too young to die and too old to give a toss

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            • #21
              Ian, I love the things you put together, that step is a fist class example of garage bodging. Time, dedication, and skill top work mate.
              Brian

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              • #22
                And you say your thick! Dont know were that leaves me.

                I wish I had half your brains and imagination
                Still on a mission.

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                • #23
                  Ian i just had a look at the electrical spec of a 2000lbs winch and it gave 20a @ 12v dc as the maximum current draw at full load.Under normal circumstances a circuit is rarely running close to its fused rating but obviously a winch circuit is different with the potential to be running a high load for a prolonged period although this wouldnt actually be the case with your step set up.The heavy duty cabling to the winch motor is probably 4 times thicker than the actual size required to safely carry 20a to minimise resistance which in turn minimises heating up.As your winch would be running for maybe 10/15 seconds at a fraction of its stated maximum current draw i couldnt see a problem with using thinner cable.i would do a load test on the winch moving up and down with a weight equivilent to your missus or maybe the good lady herself if shes not busy!i suspect the current draw will only be about 10a. 4mm car cable is rated at 20a.6mm is probably the biggest you could squeeze into a crimped spade connector and i imagine would be thick enough not to give too much resistance or heat up

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                  • #24
                    Thanks Yoshie, Bazcam, if i had any brains i'd have worked it all out on paper and done some decent drawings, then it might have been ok the first time, instead as useual i jump in, start makeing stuff, find i got it wrong, and do it again, "lack of forward planning"
                    Hi richard, thanks again, ok mate i'll have a go at just wiring it to a DTDP switch and see how it goes, do you mind if i as any questions that might arise when i get gound to haveing a go? thanks for you help and advice so far, much apprecieated, cheer's, ian
                    Too young to die and too old to give a toss

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                    • #25
                      Did you get the idea from Penn and Teller ?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_g7jEyonsqs

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by madcampbell View Post
                        Did you get the idea from Penn and Teller ?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_g7jEyonsqs
                        OMG! i crossed my legs whilst watching that, very cleverly done
                        Too young to die and too old to give a toss

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                        • #27
                          yeh not a problem.i,m happy to help with any queries you might have.to be honest as long as you,ve got a suitably rated fuse at source you cant go too badly wrong!

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                          • #28


                            This is how i would wire it Ian.Winches quite often have an overload cut out installed as well,normally a simple bi metallic strip set up(like a mcb in a normal domestic fuseboard).i wouldn,t bother as your fuse will blow quick enough if the step jammed and the overload cut out is normally the norm on heavy duty winches where the high inductive load start would blow fuses so they quite often just wired straight to the battery with no inline fuse.i hope this all makes sense

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                            • #29
                              Thats great Richard, thanks, i can understand that ok, (i hope)
                              i've done several electricle "mods" to stuff like back up cooling fand/water pump, intercooler fan, and some other stuff, (with some help from a guy that used to be on here, once i understand the circuit i'm ok, i've used DTDP switches in most of the applications, hopefully the pic has loaded ok so you can see the drawing of the fans/pump wiring,
                              i wired em up like this and all worked fine, give me either auto fan cut-in, off, or manual fan cut-in, low current supply was from the batt but a problem i encountered was that when the fans were not in use the 5 pin cross over relay was warm, i put this down to the reason my batterys went dead after several days of not useing the truck,
                              all i did was to change the supply (to the DTDP switch) over to an ign supply and now i just leave the ign on till the fans cut out,
                              it the 2.4 paranoia
                              i've copyed and saved all you diag's and text so i can fine it better, also printed it off for my folder,
                              thanks for all your help, if you ever want your heater modded let me know
                              cheer's ian
                              Attached Files
                              Too young to die and too old to give a toss

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Not been on here for a while Ian, BTW Happy new year to you and your Family. I see you have gone away from air operation, give me a shout if you think I can help......

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