I must have replied to about half a dozen similar posts on how to tell if you have a current drain, and how to check charging etc in the last month. They're all in the 'electrical' bit.
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Why does it do this!!!!!!!
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aye, the bl00dy alarm, mine does the same, 2-3 days, brand new batts from toyota oct-nov, the last two lasted two years though they were not the correct cca, there's nothing else on to drain the batteries and I've had the car 4 years and this is the only pi55er, all earths are good, all connections clean, been over the lot multiple times. I hate car leckys and would rip the alarm out but its like a plate of spaghetti down there and I know the car would end up immobbed so I just put up with it.
After a good run and full charged I disconnected mine when doing the head, they sat in the house three months and fired the car back up after a couple of minutes cranking, if your any good with electrics chop the alarm out, f-ing thing should have its own power. H
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Originally posted by greeley View Postok weather permitting im on it 2moz and fitting my nice new bright special popeye heater unit,he should TM them.wish me luck.gonna try that bulb trick 1st the guy on here mentioned
I noticed someone mentioned your amp, I also recall you did a bodge job on it to get it switched on. If it's not tuning off, it'll drain your batteries pretty quickly.Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's
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As Apache mentioned, here are just a couple of posts I found relating to checking the alternator / batteries:
http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthread.php?t=68291
http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthrea...t=67757&page=3Oh Nana, what's my name?
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Back to the fuel side.
Mine did it during the cold spell, but I did have loose alternator belts, so wasn't getting good charge (whining) and doing very short journeys with everything on.
Even with a Jump Start from another car, it took approx 30 seconds of cranking to get it going.
In my experience, and listening to the detonation, I would say it was deffo a fueling issue.
My black hand priming pump on top of the fuel filter is always soft to press, and I have been told it should ALWAYS be hard, whick means its probably faulty.
Thing is it works in the "normal" weather ie not minus 20, so not got round to a proper diagnosis yet, buty assuming replacing the primer woiuld solve it.
One thought I had was, if it was the primer leaking, I assume the fuel "could" siphon back to the tank??????
Thats a long way."B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
www.johnthebuilder.info
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Originally posted by Albannach View PostBulb trick?
I noticed someone mentioned your amp, I also recall you did a bodge job on it to get it switched on. If it's not tuning off, it'll drain your batteries pretty quickly.
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Originally posted by greeley View Postthe amp for my sub isnt connected now and it wasnt a bodge job,ive fitted loads of car audio in other cars ive had,i was just more difficult to do in the surf,not claiming im an expert in car electrics,just done a lot of audio installsDo you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's
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I checked by,cars off.putting a multmeter on each terminal on the batterys one at a time and it was counting down the voltage.then unplugged the alternator and did the same and it stayed level,didnt count down,is this any good or just wrong haha
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Depends how long ago the engine had run before you did it. If the car has run recently, the voltage will drop slowly anyway. However, if you leave the alternator unplugged for a few hours and monitor the voltage on the battery, then plug it in again and see if the voltage immediately drops.
If your batteries are healthy and the voltage does drop significantly when you plug in the alternator, then there is a pretty big current flowing.
The best way (and possibly only way to do it unambiguously) to do it is with a DC current clamp meter. There must be someone you know who has one?Cutting steps in the roof of the world
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