Suggestions please....and keep them clean!

[si tate]

3rd gens are easy mate, done mine in 20 mins all bleed with no problems

Can you give me an "idiots" step by step guide please mate.

Ive searched on the site but its mainly on how to do the 2.4.

[Diezel Weazel]

Ok im no expert but are you bleeding it with all the blowers on full heat.
Sorry in advance if im talking shite.

[Quote]Skudmonkey :
That's fine Si. And yes, blower on hot just to make sure. [Quote]

Forgive me if I've not read this right ....
But, Heaters (blowers) should be turned off, when stationary (controls set to warm setting) until it's reached normal Working Temp !! (otherwise it's never gonna get warm enough) I've never run (road tested) any Vehicle .... before doing this procedure n when warm air is wafting through I then set blower/s to trickle speed n increase the blower speed the further into the road test I get ...
Don't forget to take at least a 2 ltr bottle of Hot/warm water should ya need to top up while on ya road test ....
Hope this helps


There's always a Payback .... It'll take longer than five minutes tho !!!!

[BioHazard]

I was indeed can't help it! Shame so many of the roads have been changed into donkey tracks.

next time give me a shout .........i know my way around a bit .......


there is this nice little hill i know

Not being silly , have you tested the coolant for gasses ........just to make sure the head is ok

[charvell]

Can you give me an "idiots" step by step guide please mate.

Ive searched on the site but its mainly on how to do the 2.4.

I undone the rad drain plug and let it all flood out, them filled it with clean water run the engine for a bit drain it again then put a a hose on slow in the top of the rad and flushed for a bit, let it all drain again then put 5ltrs of coolent in then got one of the wifes best pint jugs and slowley topped it up brought the expansion bottle up to mark, ran it with the heaters on full had no air locks

[POPEYE]

It's all been said and only thing i can add is make sure the heater and rear heater pipes and matrix's are clear, flush with a mains water hose both forward and reverse, it may not have ever been done before and you should only have to do it the once, my rear heater was so blocked the mains hose blew off twice trying to clear it, then a load of red gunge shot out, i've never had to park it up hill or leave over night, just use the drain cock method, and slow fill, dont wallop it in, from empty i just slow fill through the cap as normal, then start up and get it up to temp so the stat opens (cap still off) top up till it dont go down, then fit the cap and rig the hoses/bottles to the two drain cocks, half fill both bottles and open the cocks, after topping up one and emptying the other for about 20 mins with the engine still running and no air bubbles comeing out nip off the cocks and remove the bottles hose etc, had no probs sinse and yup these feckers are the most difficult engines i've ever filled/bled,

[darkdezigns]

one small thing was the head gasket a good one and did it match all the holes,ie waterways?and yes it is poss to gey a porous head

[jotto]

There is nothing wrong, you can drive for as long as you like the bottom of the rad will still be cold

[scudmonkey]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I don't believe the head to be faulty and I'm assuming as nobody has said it that the blocks don't go porous or crack horrendously. Got the drain tap and stuff from TP so going for that mod Bush...nice one. Do the bonnet struts really stop airlocks????

TBH I didn't check the gasket holes....another doubt in my mind now, but plus side its a steel multi layer gasket, so hopefully a goodun! No doubt be another weekend fixing and not one playing....now thats pants!

[TobyJug]

There is nothing wrong, you can drive for as long as you like the bottom of the rad will still be cold

that is what I said.....
I thought the bottom needs to be cold because otherwise it would just be circulating hot water back into the engine.....

And seen as the truck is not overheating at all I don't see why the worry....

But hey who am I...?
I mean I did kill a few.....

[coolsv650]

It's all been said and only thing i can add is make sure the heater and rear heater pipes and matrix's are clear, flush with a mains water hose both forward and reverse, it may not have ever been done before and you should only have to do it the once, my rear heater was so blocked the mains hose blew off twice trying to clear it, then a load of red gunge shot out, i've never had to park it up hill or leave over night, just use the drain cock method, and slow fill, dont wallop it in, from empty i just slow fill through the cap as normal, then start up and get it up to temp so the stat opens (cap still off) top up till it dont go down, then fit the cap and rig the hoses/bottles to the two drain cocks, half fill both bottles and open the cocks, after topping up one and emptying the other for about 20 mins with the engine still running and no air bubbles comeing out nip off the cocks and remove the bottles hose etc, had no probs sinse and yup these feckers are the most difficult engines i've ever filled/bled,

Have you disconnected both the heaters & turbo coolant pipe and flushed them through, I had a similar problem on a 2.4 I did the head on, both the Turbo coolant and rear heater were blocked up with crud, finally blew out and ran clear with some trouble.

BTW heater controls need to be on hot when filling up as the surf regulates the heat by controlling the amount of water going through the matrix, having them on full hot allows the air to escape

[POPEYE]

Have you disconnected both the heaters & turbo coolant pipe and flushed them through, I had a similar problem on a 2.4 I did the head on, both the Turbo coolant and rear heater were blocked up with crud, finally blew out and ran clear with some trouble.

BTW heater controls need to be on hot when filling up as the surf regulates the heat by controlling the amount of water going through the matrix, having them on full hot allows the air to escape

i Flushed each pipe individually, heater, rear heater, turbo and replaced all hoses except the bottom rad one, i did have the motor stripped to the block/head tho which made it easy,
as for the bottom of the rad being cold i would have thought it would be hot/warm allthough i've never touched it after a run, so dont know, but i cant see the rad being so effecient that it cools the water down from 80+ deg to cold!! and what about in traffic? the bottoms got to get hot then,
yup heater controlls(water on/off) set to on, switching the blower on aint gonna do ferk all tho except warm the cab up,
i believe blocks can crack,warp, etc, and i do know con rods can come through the side

[scudmonkey]

I'm sure the head's sound. Went out for a 25 mile drive with the new rad and on returning home the top of the rad was too hot to touch, the top hose was too hot to touch, likewise the hose th the matrix valve. output hose from matrix was warm. Bottom rad hose stone cold and so was bottom of the rad. And the hoses were hard to compress. So I guess its time to look for another 1/2 engine. There should be heat at the bottom of the rad. Can't think of any heat exchanger that's 100 percent efficient. Now that would be something!

[BigYin]

re-awakening this thread as I'm planning to change the coolant on my 2nd gen surf this weekend - I'm assured it's pretty easy......

Any specific advice anyone can offer me since I'm a bit of a novice??

I've read through this thread and found bits and pieces helpful - I don't have any cooling or heater probs though, so I'm not sure how much of the flushing advice is applicable to me....

A step my step guide that covers it all would be fab!!

thanks in advance!!!!

[Albannach]

Empty, then back-flush the cooling system with a hose. Fill the system with water and add a cooling system flush (I use Forte), run the truck as per the instructions on the flush. Drain the system and back-flush, re-fill the system with water and run the truck for a while. Drain and back-flush again. Re-fill the system with red anti-freeze and water in a 50:50 ratio.

Do the above with the thermostat removed.

Fit a new Toyota cap and thermostat (Don't use pattern parts)

3 Liters don't have the same air locking issues as the 2.4s do.

[KERRSURF]

Where do you get the Forte coolant flush from Andy?