Help. Where do I go now!!!!

[POPEYE]

I tapped mine in one of these inline dohickys, (first pic) but if you want to tap in before the stat you can get an adaptor to fit into the blanked plug (second pic) that'll give ya temp reading as soon as the water starts heating

[roylittle0]

So i have tried all i can, refitted all the pipes with new clips fitted the bleed and fill points on the heater matrix pipe and filled from there, i was filling whilst the engine was rinning, keeping the bottle topped up so it didn't pull water in, but i got a constant bubble flow out of the rad hole.

I tried an extra 1/4 turn on the head bolts but still no good so i think thats it, ill strip her down tomorrow and see what i can see, but i don't hold out much hope unfortunaterly with work situation as it is i can't afford to replace her and all my money was spent on trying to get her running , so we will have to see what tomorrow brings.

[stormforce]

sorry to hear that roy and i hope you can get it sorted

[POPEYE]

Yeah sorry to hear it mate, wish i could wave my magic wand, good luck

[new surf]

Hi Roy, having read throgh this thread, you appear to have done every test there is, but just before you start stripping the head off again, remove the water pump and check the impeller is still functional. I have had one or two that had either rusted through or snapped off the drive shaft.

If the water is not being pumped around the block this would cause rapid heating of the engine in the time scale you describe.

One other thought have you removed the radiator turned it upside down and flushed it out, suprising how much crud comes out. Good Luch: rolleyes3

[roylittle0]

It could be worse, i mean, i could be really depressed at the moment

[roylittle0]

Hi Roy, having read throgh this thread, you appear to have done every test there is, but just before you start stripping the head off again, remove the water pump and check the impeller is still functional. I have had one or two that had either rusted through or snapped off the drive shaft.

If the water is not being pumped around the block this would cause rapid heating of the engine in the time scale you describe.

One other thought have you removed the radiator turned it upside down and flushed it out, suprising how much crud comes out. Good Luch: rolleyes3

Hi New Surf, i have tried to start the engine with various pipes removed and i get one hell of a gush of water out of some of them, so i can only assume that the water pump is OK, as for the radiator, its anew one and all pipes have been flushed, but i will check the pump tomorrow before removing the head.

[darkdezigns]

Hi New Surf, i have tried to start the engine with various pipes removed and i get one hell of a gush of water out of some of them, so i can only assume that the water pump is OK, as for the radiator, its anew one and all pipes have been flushed, but i will check the pump tomorrow before removing the head.

if u have tried the stat,gotta be a sniff test

[sledge]

You are such a optimist

No visible leaks that i can see, even if the head was fecked then there would be signs, small bubbles in the water or water/steam out of the exhaust, would you not think?

nope, they don't all show signs of overheating, you would be suprised.


just a thought, when your topping/filling her up you are doing through the rad cap not the exspansion bottle?????

[roylittle0]

just a thought, when your topping/filling her up you are doing through the rad cap not the expansion bottle?????

Ermmm, the expansion bottle, obviously, I'm no fool.



















No I'm filling through the filler point i fitted to the highest point in the engine, on the heater matrix pipe, i am using a drain cock and a bottle to fill it slow and get no air in it, i keep it filling until the water comes out of the rap cap hole, then keep filling until all air bubbles have gone.

[gwh200]

have you had a body lift roy ??

and if so have you dropped the rad

[yoshie]

You are such a optimist

No visible leaks that i can see, even if the head was fecked then there would be signs, small bubbles in the water or water/steam out of the exhaust, would you not think?

Sorry mate, but you sound like you know what your up to. You have bled and re bled you have checked pipes fittings, you have replaced renewed ect ect.

You have no leaks you have no water in the oil and your losing 2ltr in jig time.
I've just swapped an engine out my beemer for this self same reason.
It's sore but when all the simple things check out okay then theres only the pain in the ass stuff left.

I hope it's not but I think we both know it's very likley. If you were closer I would help you swap it I aint all bad.

[gwh200]

its not the biggest pain in the butt to swap it out for a 3.0 litre roy.

it needs a lot of the 3.0 litre loom, but getting the dash out and removing the engine ...it may be worth a go.

[BUSHWHACKER]

its not the biggest pain in the butt to swap it out for a 3.0 litre roy.

it needs a lot of the 3.0 litre loom, but getting the dash out and removing the engine ...it may be worth a go.

It's roughly the same amount of work to change from a 2.4 engine for a 3.0 as it is to install a 1UZFE.

[yoshie]

Vince did you ever post a write up of your transplant on here or any other forum?