Fuel Leak using veggie

[MattF]

The kit from Milner's is the one you need. Give them a ring just to make sure that it is still the same kit they sell, as judging by that description you gave, they have either used the wrong picture or they may have actually changed the kit they supply. Just double check with them first.
You will also need to obtain a bag of mixed O-rings, as the kit is missing one or two O-rings which are needed for the sensor in the lid.

[MattF]

Those words are so true in this case! None of you would have this problem if you brought Diesel rather than trying to save a few pennies using vegetable oil.

Bunkum. Seals perish, period. They may leak when running on pure derv also. The use of V.O merely highlights a problem which is already in its latter stages.

[Diezel Weazel]

Bunkum. Seals perish, period. They may leak when running on pure derv also.

Have to agree with ya Matt...The good Doctor replaced my seals long before any V/O got near my olde 1990 Truck !!!

[Quote Those words are so true in this case! None of you would have this problem if you brought Diesel rather than trying to save a few pennies using vegetable oil. Quote]

Have to say it's not just about being a miser or penny pinching either (I think the Government steal enough of our taxes, then waste it) but like most we are at least attempting to be economical n environmentally friendly at the same time .... end of PR lesson !!!!

There's always a Payback .... Ya just never ever see it Comin !!!!

[johnsiddle]

Thanks again

I dont want to take the pump out unless I am forced to. I thought I would get a seal kit just incase.

Thanks to you other guys who replied.
Just a thought with a twin tank surely the seals will be soaking in pure diesel when parked up so should'nt the seals remain in good(ish) condition being revived on a daily basis so to speak.
Or does this still happen with a twin tank.

Where can I get a good change over solenoid valve???
Regards John

[MattF]

I dont want to take the pump out unless I am forced to. I thought I would get a seal kit just incase.

It is generally the top seals which need replacing, and they can be replaced with the I.P insitu. If it's leaking, at least one of the seals is shagged. You will end up doing it at some point, so best to get it done now before it causes you more problems.

[POPEYE]

This is the one i was going to get (the 57 quid one) to replace the pollok valve, which i got from the states and looks cheap and cheerfull,
http://www.biotuning.co.uk/ShopValves.htm

but as the price of veg shot up i lost the will to cough up £57 on summat i may hardly use,

[johnsiddle]

Leak getting worse

Well guys following my sticking a couple of gals of diesel in I put 2 ltrs of white spirit in, in the hope the seals would swell. Its leaking twice as much now and there is veggie all over the underside.
I still cant see exactly where the leak is but I now have a seal kit from Milners and plan jetwash the side of the engine over the weekend then start the engine with the airbox removed, maybe I will be able to see the leak then.

On a different track, last night I was reading where one of you guy's designed and installed a tank heater, I didnt finish reading and I cant remember where I found the thread, any idea's.

All I know is that the red and yellow underside of this Surf is cleaner than my bathroom.
Regards John:

[MattF]

All I know is that the red and yellow underside of this Surf is cleaner than my bathroom.
Regards John:

Look at the post above yours and you shall find the author. It's over in mods. The dual tanks thread.

[POPEYE]

Aye the mans right, and when ya right ya right right!, guess i was lucky with my leak then, but i'm the sort of "leave it alone and it'll go away" bloke
http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...ad.php?t=36706

[johnsiddle]

Still Leaking.... Help

Hi Guy's
Changed the seal on the top cover, had trouble getting a ring for the solenoid but after two trips to B&Q I got several packs and I think I got the right one.
BUT its still leaking, a very slight weep from the big nut on top nothing to worry about, nothing like the constant leak underneath.

I washed the pump down in white spirit and waited for it to dry but it looks like the leak is around that assy with the injectors on.
Is this bad news?????

Help!!!!

John

[johnsiddle]

Still Leaking

Well guy's since no one replied to my cry for help, I figured at the least it was a Radiator out. So after struggling first with the bottom cowl, didnt know there was a bolt at the bottom and then struggling with the Viscus Fan, it wouldnt budge and was worried I was unscrewing the wrong nuts I got 2 big screwdrivers out and a hammer and said sod it and hit it. It turns out it was rusted onto the boss.
I have decided to sort the blowing water into the expansion tank problem.
It had a new head when I bought it but it also had this problem just not got around to fix it.

So with the Rad off I have decided to take the head off.
So now whats next??? Anyone know how the crank nut comes off, how do you stop the engine turning??.
John

[POPEYE]

Hi John, your haveing a bad time with this mate, i take it the water thing a seperate issue to the pump leak? i seem to remember someone posting a "nack/tip" for doing the top cover "o" ring, have a good search through all sections for anything to do with fuel pump and ya might get lucky, unless whoever posted it pipes up,
to get the crank bolt out you'll need to "lock" the engine from turning, it's best "safest" to make up a bar drilled to enable you to bolt it to the crank pully once the two forward pullys have beed removed, undo the four small bolts you can see in the front of the pully and these two will come off with a light tap, then bolt the bar to two of these holes, bolt it so you can still get a socket/ring spanner on the main bolt, you'll will prob need a decent size wrecking bar to shift it tho, mine was sodding tighter than a spaniards arse,
it undoes usual way (anticlockwise), then tap off the main pully, dont forget to line up the timeing marks after removeing the cover before you start undoing timeing belt, pump, head etc

[johnsiddle]

Thanks Popeye

Thanks mate for the info.
Yes the two problems are unrelated.
I bought the car knowing the heating problem but since it had a new head from Milners about this time last year ( and I checked with Milners, they certainly supplied a head) I thought it must be something and nothing.
I drove it back from Anglesea to Stoke (100 miles) and it didnt run out of water until Crewe, I sprayed a lot out of every pipe joint though.

Its been waiting for me to get up the courage to sort. But I think the only way forward it to take the head off and looksee.

When I saw how much I needed to remove to take the pump off I thought I am not doing this twice so hence the head off job.
The fuel leak only arrived recently with the veggie, buy the way I just bought a Landy tank to fit under side much like you did, but I bet it wont look as good as the underside of your car.

Thanks for the pics, it looks frightening inside that cambelt cowl, do I have to remove the complete cowl including all the other pulleys.
I hadnt realised the bottom pulleys were bolted on separately I thought the big nut held the lot.

thanks a lot.
john

PS I did read all your post about the tank heating system... twice.

[POPEYE]

The main crank bolt does hold the lot on and if the bolt aint too tight you'll get away with a socket and short extension, however if it's tight this will only slip, you cant get the leverage and hold the extension from twisting at the same time, i split a socket on mine, in the end i cut a ring spanner down and slipped a lenght of box section over the end, removeing the front two pullys(which bolt to the harmonic ballencer pully) just enables you to to get a better purchase on the bolt and somewhere to bolt the locking bar,
never had the head off so hopefully someone who has will offer advice, but going on past motors i've had it's "doable" take plenty of pic for refferance and lable up the nuts, bolts and bits as you remove em, and ya wont go far wrong, just make sure you use a toyota head gasket and not a milners cheapo, new bolts (and measure em against the olduns, and clean out the bolt holes in the block), a decent torque wrench, good luck

ps, this is what it did to the ring before it "gave", loud crack, i cr@pped thinking i'd sheared off the bolt, but all ok, and dont do what i did and forget to torque up the pully bolt which come loose and shattered the pully boss

[johnsiddle]

Re

Got the crank nut off without too much problem did it with a ring and a tap or two from a lump hammer, I think it had been locktighted on
Made a locking bar up as you recommended, then pulled off the big pulley and the injector pump pulley.
I think getting to the rear injector bolt is going to be fun. as will getting to the two rear injector pipe nuts on the pump.

You deffo have to have new head bolts do you??
John

PS
Picked up my landy tank today, looks perfect and only cost £2. Have you got a picture of how you routed the filler pipe to your veggie tank?