2013 Toyota Prius electronic steering column (EMPS):
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Toyota Hilux MK5 Restoration And UZ Swap.
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There are 2 ways I can run the Toyota Prius EMPS in the Hilux.
1) Directly. So with just an interrupter switch, and ignition feed to the motorised column, which will default to ASSISTED each time the truck is started. The interrupter switch can then be used to turn ASSISTANCE off whilst on the move
2) Automatic (ECU controlled). This will mean using the Toyota Prius EMPS ECU. The ECU receives data from a myriad of sources, and varies steering ASSISTANCE accordingly.
Road speed (via ABS sensors / VSS.
Engine rpm
Engine load.
Brake pedal switch.
Alternator charge rate.
Steering angle.
With the above, the ASSISTANCE is calculated, and pretty much right for whatever conditions the vehicle is driven in. There is also a K-line feed, so the EMPS system can be interrogated via the OBD port.
The system sounds complex, but it really isn't, as long as a basic understanding of how it works exists. I also have the privilege of having access to Techdoc, with it's wealth of information and EWD's (Electric Wiring Diagrams).
With all this in mind, I've decided to go with option 2, so fully ECU-controlled. The assisted column is the most expensive part, the ECU is way cheaper to buy.
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Update!
I was able to drop into the bodyshop during a sneaky test drive, to see what progress had been made since lifting the bed on Saturday.
I was pleased to see the bed upside down, being cleaned. Very little surface rust at the rear, just behind the valence (license plate area). It came off easily with a rotary brush, the rest of the bed just had dried mud, especially between the outer skins.
A power wash was all that was needed, and the whole lot dried with compressed air, before going into the oven for 25 minutes. It is essential that no trapped moisture is over looked, as it was being under sealed. Sealing in water droplets, well the Red Terror would make an early comeback.
The chassis was also cleaned, I was pleased to run my hands over the surfaces, and find it smooth. I did say I did NOT want any underseal on the frame and underneath the bed, UNTIL I had inspected the preparation, and was happy with the finish. The frame was actually silver in places, it was that clean.
My second visit was after work. The frame was being under sealed, as was the bed. The bed was completed whilst I was there, the frame needs a bit more, especially the front underside.
I will upload pictures shortly, really pleased with progress.
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The cab and frame, looking like a mini tractor-unit. The rear section of the frame has been started, though not completed. The front section is also yet to be under sealed. The shop ran out of 3M underseal, more will be delivered tomorrow. The bed and the rear section of the bed has taken 5 large cans!
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As I posted earlier, my rear differential e-locker wiring harness was all busted. I priced up a replacement at work today. At £63, it wasn't worth attempting to salvage the old one. It can certainly be soldered and heat-shrunk, but I opted for a new one.
I ordered a new harness, and replacement differential breather valve, again at £8, not worth trying to free up the old one. The new parts will be with me by Wednesday.
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Mini update!
I dropped into the bodyshop after work, to see what progress was being made.
The filling and sanding has begun. The roof has been filled, in the areas where steel was welded into to rain channels, and the hole in the middle of the roof, left after I removed the amber beacon. I was impressed with the finish, despite it being pretty much work in progress.
I am fussy when it comes to bodywork, and so I should be - good bodyshops don't come cheap. I brought a flat rule with me from work, and a set of metric feeler gauges. I found a couple of tiny dips, and circled them. They will be attended to, and I will be checking each stage, until I'm satisfied.
I am getting an auto screen outfit to cut out the front screen. There are a couple of tiny chips at the base, nearside. So I might as well get a replacement. I am using the same guys that supplied me with a heated rear screen.
I didn't take any pictures today, as I didn't feel a sanded roof would be of interest.
I did visit the fabricator of the lid though. Due to the length, I feel there will be a bit of movement, even when locked, due to flexing of the bed. I instructed my guy to weld in a couple of tapered locating pegs at the rear, either side of the tailgate, so on the bed section. I will have corresponding holes drilled into the bed, the exposed steel painted with the rest of the bed. Then blind grommets inserted to accept the pegs. The pegs are 15mm long.
Hopefully, more progress tomorrow.
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I got a call back from the windscreen outfit just after getting to work this morning. They confirmed they were able to cut the front screen out, and was I happy for them to replace it, once the truck had been painted?
For the sum of £150.
I originally planned to go through my insurance, as I have glass cover. Unfortunately, Autoglass (or who ever my insurance company use) will NOT cut out a screen, and fit a replacement at a different time. They will only cut out, and fit a new replacement at the same time.
I decided to go with the outfit that had gotten back to me. And when I visited the bodyshop after work, I discovered the glass guys had been and gone. The front screen had been neatly removed.
Rewinding to 08:46 at work, my replacement rear differential e-locker harness and axle breather arrived, and at home, my tailgate handle was delivered.
At this point, I'm not sure it I'm retaining an external handle, or having the handle recess welded flush, relying solely on automation to release the tailgate.
With filling and sanding starting, I don't have much time to decide.
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One thing I have not come to terms with, (and probably never will) is the rear suspension on on the Toyota Hilux.
Like most light pick-up trucks, it runs a live rear axle, suspended and located by leaf springs. Whilst this set-up is great when it comes to load-lugging, it limits the handling capabilities on tarmac. Not an issue with the stock 2.5 D-4D DOHC 16V, with it's 102 hp output. But if the ultimate goal is more power, in my case from a breathed-upon Lexus 4.3 V8 2xDOHC 32V, then the rear suspension will certainly limit my exploiting the extra performance.
I believe leaf springs belong on a cart. And indeed, that's where they originated from. Cart horses (pulled by Donkeys) had their axles suspended on leaf springs.
I have decided to go with a 4-link rear suspension, with adjustable coil overs. This dispenses with the leaf springs. The axle is then located by trailing arms at the front, and anti-wrap bars at the rear. Side to side movement is controlled by a Panhard bar, which is a bar located on one side of the chassis, the other end on the axle beam.
Since I have come to this decision late in the build process, very few, if any fabricators would be willing to do the job. Grinding and welding whilst surrounded by fresh paint is not any fabricator's dream.
So, I will be doing the work myself, while the bed is off the chassis. I will make mock-ups of the locating shackles / brackets on the axle and frame, for the trailing arms, anti-wrap bars and Panhard bar. These will be made out of wood, then all I will have to do is give the wooden models to my guy to make out of 3mm steel.
I will also be showing some love to the front end, losing the torsion spring set-up, and having adjustable coil-overs here too.
I will post pictures of this process, as I go along.
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The old rear differential e-locker harness. It's actually broken in two ares, and the same wires, all parted company. I don't think it's even worth trying to fix, as it's gotten so stiff and brittle:
And the nice, new flexible replacement. Worth every bit of the £63 it cost me:
OEM replacement rear axle breather - I may relocate it with stainless steel braided line, the jury's still out on that one:
I got a replacement tailgate handle, the chrome-look version as fitted to MK5 VX / Invincible. It carries the same part number as that fitted to the MK6, if the chrome package is specified:
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Today, things really moved up a notch.
The front half of the frame was cleaned up, and under sealed. I removed the oil pan bash plate, it was only slightly dented in the middle, and would straighten out real good. But, I've opted to have a new one made out of of 3mm aluminium.
The cabin has had all the filling and sanding down done, the only areas that required Bondo were the roof, where the hole for the old revolving beacon used to live, and now has steel plate welded over it. The same goes for the roof gutters, that now have steel welded on to fill the groove. The cabin then had primer laid down, the roof had a few coats.
I'll upload pictures in a little while, though it's all looking great.
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Some pictures - please ignore the fuzzy images. Sharp on the camera, once uploaded onto an old PC, then sent to an iPad, quality seems to degrade.
Just for reference, the truck will be painted in the spray booth. The priming can be done pretty much anywhere. I'm particularly pleased the way the roof has turned out:
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