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3rd gen bodylift - bolt dimensions

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  • 3rd gen bodylift - bolt dimensions

    Who's done a lift on a 3rd gen?

    What I'd like to know is what are the original bolt lengths / sizes? How many? Is it still 10 as per 2nd gen? Just to save me taking the bolts out to have a look!

    I will shortly have a load of left over 50mm HPDE so am going to make myself a 1.5" bodylift, and want to source bolts. There's not a huge price difference between grade 8.8 and 10.9, so as 12.9 has ~25% better tensile strength, this is probably the grade to go for - yes?
    Cutting steps in the roof of the world

  • #2
    yes there is still 10 (8 if yours is a 96), as for bolt lengths i can't remember but i have a feeling that 4 of the bolts are longer than what you would need on a 2nd gen. theres a thread somewhere with the bolt lengths, think it was by jotto. i used grade 8.8 so your be fine.

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    • #3
      God, does this mean I have to take my chances with the 'search randomiser'?

      Jotto? Can you help?

      <edit> Whoaaa!!! Search engine works!! Cheers!
      Last edited by Apache; 4 January 2011, 15:20.
      Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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      • #4
        I used threaded rod, locking washers and nylon nuts.
        cant go wrong on the length then
        私のホバークラフト は鰻が一杯です。

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by blackpoolsparks View Post
          I used threaded rod, locking washers and nylon nuts.
          cant go wrong on the length then
          As long as the threaded rod is rated.
          Brian

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          • #6
            Originally posted by yoshie View Post
            As long as the threaded rod is rated.
            rated, shamated,

            its M12 or 14, biggest I could fit in the hole.

            I dont offroad........
            私のホバークラフト は鰻が一杯です。

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by blackpoolsparks View Post
              rated, shamated,

              its M12 or 14, biggest I could fit in the hole.

              I dont offroad........
              You do, but you bring a proper truck for that
              Brian

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by blackpoolsparks View Post
                I used threaded rod, locking washers and nylon nuts.
                cant go wrong on the length then
                thats what i used, rated 8.8 had no probs with it.

                and i do offroad

                Comment


                • #9
                  Don't forget the steering shaft spacer.

                  http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showpost....81&postcount=3

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
                    Don't forget the steering shaft spacer.

                    http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showpost....81&postcount=3
                    Oh yea, you definetly need one of those.
                    私のホバークラフト は鰻が一杯です。

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
                      Don't forget the steering shaft spacer.

                      http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showpost....81&postcount=3
                      Is the shaft vertical where the spacer goes in? So ideally it would be the same thickness as the bodylift? Am I dreaming or did I see a drawing of the spacer somewhere? I have some 2" diameter aluminium bar lying around too, so assuming the diameter isn't greater than that, I can knock one up while I'm turning the bodylift blocks.

                      Anything else peculiar about bodylift on a 3rd gen?

                      Oooohhhh... a bodylift held together with 'mystery metal' threaded rod... You're a brave man 'Sparks...
                      Cutting steps in the roof of the world

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Apache View Post
                        Is the shaft vertical where the spacer goes in? So ideally it would be the same thickness as the bodylift?

                        Yes.
                        You can see the ally spacer, just above the steering rack in the photo in the link above.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
                          Yes.
                          You can see the ally spacer, just above the steering rack in the photo in the link above.
                          Yep, got that. Just wondered if anyone had a drawing of the dims of the holes etc. I'm thinking I might do my rack mounting bushes while I'm down there too. Advisory on the last MOT that they are a bit worn.

                          Well... now all I need is sunshine - or maybe blag the use of the vehicle chamber here one weekend. Nice and warm, lit by about 100 halogen lights
                          Cutting steps in the roof of the world

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            andy, no idea of what the dimensions were on the holes but i got what i need off here, and measured as i went along.

                            http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...BodyLift43.jpg
                            http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...BodyLift44.jpg
                            http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...BodyLift48.jpg
                            http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...teeringExt.jpg

                            For trucks with rack and pinion steering (and vertical steering shafts or on trucks with 1-piece shafts and recirculating ball steering boxes) you will not be able to extend the driveshaft as shown above. Since the shaft is vertical, there is no need to make it collapsible for safety reasons, so instead it is a fixed length. If the shaft is only a fraction of an inch too short, you can add a few washers to the retaining bolts to lift the steering shaft off the rag joint. You probably don't want to go past the point that the large studs on the base of the rag joint won't engage the stops on the top of the rag joint. These stops are another safety feature that help limit the deflection of the rubber rag joint. If you need to extend the shaft 1" or more, you'll need to install a steering shaft extension; see image lower left:


                            Small extension w/ washers Rag joint disassembled Steering shaft extension installed

                            An optional steering shaft extension is available (image above center). To install it, first secure the steering wheel to prevent it from turning on it's own, then remove the 2 short bolts (8x25mm) that attach the upper part of the steering shaft to the rag joint. The other studs (with the large round heads) are pressed into the rag joint and attach it to the lower part of the steering shaft. The rag joint itself is made of rubber and it it designed to flex back and forth to absorb road vibrations transmitted up the steering linkage and prevent them traveling up the steering shaft to the steering wheel. The spacer is installed over the stop bolts on the rag joint and includes longer bolts to attach it to the steering shaft (image above right). This extension allows for rag joint flex to absorb steering jolts, yet prevents overextending the rag joint like the stock arrangement.

                            Notes:
                            In the above photos, the steering shaft is shown removed from the vehicle.
                            This was done to allow clear photos to be taken.
                            It is possible to install the extension with the steering shaft in place in the vehicle.
                            The extension is designed such that the large holes fit over the big studs sticking out of the rag joint, once the upper part of the shaft is disconnected.
                            Then the supplied (longer) bolts fit through the small holes in the upper shaft, the spacer and the rag joint to tie it all back together.
                            If needed, you may have to slide the steering shaft in or out of the upper clamp to fine tune the length to fit everything back in place with the spacer, this is normal.
                            Once installed, torque the longer bolts to factory specifications, usually 15-20 ft.lbs. Photo below is typical of rack and pinion steering shaft extensions (Tacoma and 3rd Gen 4Runner).


                            details here

                            http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
                            http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...irculatingBall

                            hope it helps

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Apache View Post
                              I will shortly have a load of left over 50mm HPDE so am going to make myself a 1.5" bodylift, and want to source bolts. There's not a huge price difference between grade 8.8 and 10.9, so as 12.9 has ~25% better tensile strength, this is probably the grade to go for - yes?
                              ooooh.... save me some!

                              Love to see the result, parked up next to mine - whens the due date?

                              If you need any help / stuff, ive got a trolley jack, hoist, etc....
                              If you're gonna be a bear... be a Grizzly.

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