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  • Roof rail install with pictures

    There's a lot of information already on this site to install roof rails, this write up hopefully will add to that and help demystify it a bit with the pictures. I do suggest you search on here first though, get as much information as you and think through each stage in your own head.

    This is my experience, and I'm happy with the result. If it goes tits up for you that's not my fault

    1. What rails.
    What rails fit? Pug 406, Astra and Escort roof rails have been suggested. I really fancied the idea of Cherokee rails and cross bars as I thought they'd look like some of the 4Runners I've seen on Yotatech.



    The Cherokee is about 4" too wide though and they don't fit. The Kia Sedona has similar track and bar system that would fit, and Specialist Leisure do a new aftermarket track/rail system for all Surf's. Probably pricey though.

    As I want to fit an expedition tray that came off an 80's series Land Cruiser I thought proper rails would be stronger (although having done the job I'm sure the track/rail system would be strong too as there's so many ribs in the roof to support it). I was offered some Pug 406 bars from one of the salvage parts websites hat send round robins to the breakers. That was £65 delivered. However Vince spurred the competitively frugal streak when he told me he only paid £10, so I wasn't too disappointed when I won some Volvo 940 rails for £16.

    I'm sure there are many rails that will fit. I found myself admiring other cars roof rails for a few weeks, sizing them up and imagining them fitted. Look around. Check fitments though, I did consider Volvo 850 bars until I realised the rail has a solid base that it covered by roof trim, so the rail comes in a bow shape and would be no good.

    2. What fittings?
    I suppose it will depend on the rails you get and how you want to fix them. My rails came with bolts and spacing lugs that must fit into the Volvo roof. I didn't want the spacers so needed to replace with M5 bolts.

    I sourced, as the pic; M5 bolts, metal washer, tap washer, home made reinforcing plate from 16 gauge galvanised mild steel, 5mm grommets from Maplins and a second washer.

    [

    3. Strip trim.
    I can't list it all here, you just need to unscrew or unbolt all that stops you pulling the trim away. It's pretty obvious once you get started, just be firm but not brutal when pulling the trim away. And don't forget the 4 musroom plugs in the roof.



    4. Drop lining.
    It mostly falls down when the trim is removed, but it needs jiggling and I ended up pulling the trim away from one side rear window to get get clearsance to drop it the other side.



    5. Mark once, mark twice....loads of times.
    With the roof lining down you'll see where the ribs are and where you can and can't get fixings through. Mine hasn't a sunroof, so I didn't have that constraint. There's the wiper mechanism and housing right at the back and then a rib close to that. You can get a fixing in there, but I wanted them to run from the back of the side window so started one rib forward. Just sit the rails on the roof, see what you like the look of and what's possible with the ribs under.

    I ran some builders twine from the back of the passnger door to the back of the drivers door to give me a straight line across the roof and a line to take offset measurements.



    Masking tap up roughly where the feet will go. I also put some elctric tape down near to where the fixing holes would go, and taped a screw in the fixing hole in the rail; when I positioned the rail on the roof the taped up screw left an impression in the electric tape of where to drill.



    6. Pace up and down loads, recheck your measurements and generally faff about for an hour while plucking up courage to drill your roof.

    7. Drill the roof.
    I practiced on some of the metal offcuts I had, and also in putting the fittings together. From that I realised it was worth getting a brand new set of metal drills and step up progressively from the pilot hole. Once I'd got over the trauma of making the first cut the rest of the holes went in easier than the practice piece.

    8. Hammerite
    To stop rust I also gave each hole a little fettle with a rats tail file.



    9. Fit rails.
    Grommet first to seal holes.



    Then bolts and washers as before. Note how good a fit it is in the grommet, even with the weight of all the washers and fitment it supports itself. And a drop of locktight.



    10. Admire.











    10. Mishaps.
    The OSF fixing was slightly out of position, didn't need to re-drill it was just a bit awkward. In the process though I lost a metal bracket that slid into the frame around the door. After an hour of trying to fish it out I gave up and cut a new bracket. Sod's law would be the lost bracket would keep reminding me it was there by clunking about.....so I spayed a load of expanding foam into the frame

    This isn't a hard modification, but it is daunting to cut your car up, there's no going back. So just plan it, think it through, be methodical and measure accurately and don't rush and it'll come good

    Hope that helps
    Last edited by Fordy; 21 September 2007, 18:27.
    Wax on, wax off

  • #2
    Excellent!

    Comment


    • #3
      Superb write up.

      I also enjoy your words of encouragement.
      Alan

      yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."

      Comment


      • #4
        Nice job mate. When can i book my surf in to get some fitted !! lol

        Comment


        • #5
          I did this - what bars to use?

          Where have the pictures gone?!?!

          When there were pictures I thought this was a brilliant mod. So I did it.

          Mine had a sunroof, but with lots of care I have managed to get some long Volvo rails fitted, 740/760 i think. Came off ebay for just under £20. Plus delivery.
          Thinking of making a bar / support that comes off the bull bar to support long item - 5Metres plus. Willl let you guys have pictures if and when I do
          I will enclose pictures at some time.

          A question. What roof bars will fit? I want some long ones that will enable me to carry 8*4 sheets of material. Anyone make their own?

          Thanks in advance.

          Comment


          • #6
            Here's some pics of Mavericks rails I fitted....

            http://com1.runboard.com/b4x4toys.f13.t77

            The Sunroof seriously effects fitting of the rails, the roof mech is a serious space hog, and the front rail fixings need careful planning.
            4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

            Comment


            • #7
              This is the only photo I have of my cross bars fitted....




              Hard to see, but they're made from the sides of an old aluminium ladder, drilled and clamped to the rails (from a Peugeot 406) using exhaust 'U' clamps.

              No problems carry 8'X4' sheets of ply, even had eight 6'X6' fence panels stacked up on them a few months ago.

              Comment


              • #8
                That is a brilliant idea bushwacker.

                Thanks for that. Just out of interest, are your roof rail mounting points into the strengthened area of the roof or through the skin with weight spreading metal plates (my fitment option).
                Just wondering if you could stand on it at all.

                What material do reckon on making an upstand of, this would go up off the bull bar to carry long stuff over the length of roof and over the bonnet.
                Will do it if something blindingly obvious accurs to me!

                Cheers.

                Comment


                • #9
                  [QUOTE]That is a brilliant idea bushwacker.

                  Thanks for that. Just out of interest, are your roof rail mounting points into the strengthened area of the roof or through the skin with weight spreading metal plates (my fitment option). Yes.
                  Just wondering if you could stand on it at all. I have, all 16 stone of me!

                  What material do reckon on making an upstand of, this would go up off the bull bar to carry long stuff over the length of roof and over the bonnet.
                  Will do it if something blindingly obvious accurs to me!
                  Use an exhaust 'U' clamp to attatch a 1"X1" steel square tube upright to the bullbar.
                  Cheers.[QUOTE]
                  Last edited by BUSHWHACKER; 21 September 2007, 11:21.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Nicc
                    Where have the pictures gone?!?!
                    Sorry, looks like the missus has had a 'tidy' of the photobucket account

                    I'll sort it out when I'm done working.
                    Wax on, wax off

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Bushwacker -
                      just to clarify did you fit the rack to the strenghened parts
                      or
                      straight through the skin and load spread?

                      Thanks

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Excellent write up Fordy, it's something that on my "to do" list, no pics tho, just little red X's
                        Too young to die and too old to give a toss

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Nicc
                          Bushwacker -
                          just to clarify did you fit the rack to the strenghened parts
                          or
                          straight through the skin and load spread?

                          Thanks

                          To be honest, I can't remember as it was three years ago.
                          I know that I had to fix the rails as close to the edge and as far back as possible 'cos I have a sunroof, so I started at the rear of the truck with the first 'foot' of the rails touching the rubber surround of the side window lined up the one side by eye and fixed it in place.
                          Then fitted the other side rear 'foot' and got a length of timber to keep the rails parallel while fixing the other feet.

                          Hope that made sense.



                          p.s. I used huge washers to spread the load on every bolt and used black silicone under each 'foot'.
                          Last edited by BUSHWHACKER; 21 September 2007, 18:41.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            We've had words

                            But all fixed now

                            There are 4 (?) strengthening ribs roughly every 600mm from the back of the truck to the rear of the front doors, after that its plain roof to the screen. I made sure my fixing points missed the ribs but were near enough to benefit from their strength, except the front ones which are mid roof. I used heavy gauge metal partitioning studs which I cut into plates slightly bigger than the foot of the bars, and with the rubber washers hopefully gave it some give.
                            Wax on, wax off

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Cheers mate.

                              Guess I will get / make some roof bars and get myself up there and see if it handles me ! ! !.

                              Comment

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