Viscous Fan Check

[cjp]

If You Have A Viscous Fan Check It For Correct Operation, With Engine Warm, At Tick Over Speed Monitor The Airflow, Then Build The Revs Up To 3000 Revsby When The Air Flow Should Be A Veriable Gale, But If It Is Little More Than At Tick Over The Viscous Fan Is Faulty, I Have That Problem With Mine, So If Yours Starts Getting Hot Try That First, Could Save You A Lot Of Money. Mines Fitted With A Electric One Now.

[Pete]

If You Have A Viscous Fan Check It For Correct Operation, With Engine Warm, At Tick Over Speed Monitor The Airflow, Then Build The Revs Up To 3000 Revsby When The Air Flow Should Be A Veriable Gale, But If It Is Little More Than At Tick Over The Viscous Fan Is Faulty, I Have That Problem With Mine, So If Yours Starts Getting Hot Try That First, Could Save You A Lot Of Money. Mines Fitted With A Electric One Now.

I agree. When Stevo re-built my engine, he re-filled the viscous fluid. The difference in airflow is amazing. I've recomended this many times on the forum to people buying Surfs, or having head work carried out. It's a 'must do' in my opinion.
Pete

[jmc]

He's serviced my viscous fan too - said he'd adjusted it to lock at a lower temperature - certainly seems to run cooler, the electric fan hasn't come on since.

[paulc]

Sounds good to me, how do you adjust/top it up?

[paulc]

Anyone??

[silvtr1000]

Did you post each of your last last two at 17:49 on purpose?

[stevo]

viscous fan

Sounds good to me, how do you adjust/top it up?

There are a couple of piccies on the site somewhere that show the inside of the viscous coupling if you search and re-post the piccies i will explain how to adjust.
Cheers Steve.

[marky]

Got one pic

[Tallyman]

There used to be a link on here to a web page that showed exactly how to do the repair but unfortunately the link isn't working any more.

I did mine a month or so back. It wasn't that difficult. You'll need a good 12mm ring spanner and a hooked rod to undo the bolts holding the fan to the pulley, as it will just spin if you try to undo the nuts with the spanner alone. I hooked a bar with a 90 degree bend under the spindle and over one of the nuts, then undid the top two nuts, moving the spindle round afterwards and loostening the other two.

You will also need to either remove completely or at least undo all the shroud bolts and probably also remove the top hose as the whole unit would not come out without doing so, as there's insufficient space to lift it out otherwise.

Once out, remove the screws holding the spindle to the fan unit, then undo the remaining screws that hold the two halves of the unit together. The details on the non-working link suggested using an impact driver to get the screws loostened as they are very tight and can't be undone with a standard screwdriver. I tried this and it does work, although you do need to support the bottom of the unit under the screw that you are trying to remove, otherwise you can crack the casing.

Once all the screws are out the two halves of the unit will rotate and should lift apart. Mine needed a little help from a Stanley Knife to break the seal between the two halves. Apart, it looks like the photo Marky supplied. Mine had very little oil left and what there was was very thick. You'll need to clean out all the old oil first. I used liberal doses of WD40 and then cleaned as much as possible with a dry cloth. The new oil was then added to the bottom half and the top half refitted.

There was one slight problem in that the large rubber "O" ring will have stretched and won't sit in its groove easliy. Best thing is to put the two halves nearly together and then try working the O ring back in with a very thin knife blade and push down slowly on the two halves until they slip back together. It worked for me.

It's probably not a good idea to try and retighten the screws using the impact driver, so I used the impact driver screwdriver blade with a socket wrench. That got it tight enough so as not to leak. Refitting is then the reverse of removal.

The manual says to use 50mL of 3000Cst of silicone fluid to refill the fan clutch. Each bottle is 18ml. Toyota P/N is 08816-03001 but they are about £5 per bottle + VAT. When I ordered mine they had to get them from Belgium as they didn't hold any in the UK.

[stevo]

viscous

Got one pic

First you need to assess the state of the silicone fluid, if it is golden in colour and runny it should be ok to be left in but i always add half a tube of 3000 grade silicone fluid. If it is dark and thick and sticky you should clean it all out of both sides with brake cleaner ( make sure you get it all out ). Then you can adjust the temperature strip so the fan comes in a little earlier. The half of the coupling shown on the left of the picture has 2 slots with 2 pozidrive screws, usually the screws are at one side of the slot as per the piccie, undo the screws ( carefully with a good fitting screw driver or impact driver because the screws are delicate ) then lever the screws round in the slots so they end up approx in the middle of the slots and tighten the screws. If you have cleaned out the old fluid then refill with 2.5 tubes of silicone fluid 1 tube for each side and re-assemble the coupling.
Cheers Steve

OOPS TO LATE.

[paulc]

Thanks guys, I'll give that a go. To answer Silvtr1000 - No, but how spooky