Gearbox mounting

[Sparkie67]

Hi all

Had a creep under the car today and noticed a slight leak from the transfer box rear output shaft seal. Are the easy to do it yourself, or best given to a garage.

Also noticed what looks like the gearbox / transfer box support bracket, which was two rubber blocks in it. Noticed that one of the blocks is on the move and could ideally do with replacing.

Seen some for sale at roughtrax or milner offroad, but ae they easy enough to fit.

What is the best position to support and lift the box whilst removing the old bracket. Might tackle that soon if the weather does improve a little. Not tthe best laid on a cold wet drive doing these things.

Regards

Andy

[stormforce]

iirc put a jack under the g/box to hold it in place while you take out the box mounts and replace.I think we did in a field a few years back to mudmuncher's truck while he was down here

[Sparkie67]

Thanks for the info, will use a piece of wood to spread weight, knowing my luck jack would go through the sump.

[knicko]

Mine is 3rd Gen and not sure how 2nd Gen differs, but did my front and rear T/Case oil seals a couple of months ago, after front started leaking. Did mine just by crawling under vehicle without jacking/axle stands. You will have to remove the propshaft and good idea to mark which way round it fits to T/Case and diff flanges. I marked with dot punch on mine before taking apart.
Hardest bit was removing the 30mm nut holding the flange that the propshaft fits onto. This nut is hammered into a groove on the threaded end of the output shaft and you will need to beat this out of the groove with a chisel. Then the nut itself is 'kin tight ... I had a breaker bar with a trolley jack underneath the handle before i got it to move!! On that subject, I didn't want to lever this force against the 'park' transmission lock, so i made up a rough and ready metal rod with a plate on the end to fit against the flange in such a way that it could be firmly bolted to the flange using the propshaft nuts. You will obviously need to have a hole in the middle of the plate so you can still access the nut with your 30mm socket! The other end of this rod will then butt against the ground/vehicle chassis to stop the output shaft spinning as you undo the nut.
CARE ... the nut MUST be re-positioned the same, so count the turns off ... and on again. The hammered part of the nut will help with this as it will obviously line up with the groove in the output shaft when you re-assemble.
The seals themselves are the easy bit compared to the above! Hook the old one(s) out (obviously drain the T/Case oil first) and carefully and evenly drift the new one(s) in.
Refill with correct oil (just over 1L of SAE 75W/90 gear oil on mine), refit flange, nut (hammer back into groove) and propshaft .... Robert's your father's brother!!