3rd Gen suspension lift

[NickTurney]

Hi all,

I’m having a few problems fitting the 2 inch spring lift kit from Roughtrax (springs and dampers). I have a 3rd gen which has, so far been bullet proof. Serviced last year by Tony, run on 50% veg during the summer, and passed its mot with flying colours a few weeks ago. I love working on it as it’s just so easy to get to everything.

That is until I started on the suspension lift.

The rear dampers top nuts were both buggers to get undone, and in the end I resorted to an angle grinder and sabre saw and cut them off. But the fronts are proving just as tricky, but for other reasons.

I can’t seem to be able to wind the spring compressor up enough to pull the spring down so the top of the current damper clears the top hole. Its close, but as I can only get one compressor on, the spring is pulled over quite a lot.

My fear is that if I continue, and get this current spring out, I’ll not be able to get the new longer / tougher one back in.

One option I can see would be to undo the bottom steering ball joint from the lower wishbone, and gently lower this down using the trolley jack. In theory it looks like this would then allow me enough movement to easily remove the damper and spring in one go, and replace it with the new kit. Then (in theory) I can raise the lower wishbone back up into place, slot the top damper bolt through the hole, and re attach the steering ball joint.

I have looked at this a few times now, and that seems the best option to me.

Can anyone tell me if this would work, or if there is an easier way that I haven’t seen.

Failing this, it’s time to call Tony, and book it in. As I also have the longer break hoses to fit, this is looking like a nice option.

Any help appreciated

Cheers
Nick

[Hawaii]

Nick

whatever you do don't try to compress the front springs with only one compressor.

if you only use one you are at real risk of it coming off on the bench and doing you some real damage.

When I did mine (orange uprated ones from RT) i used the wind up type with 2 claws on each compressor and just managed to have enough room to fit both in and wound them up progressivley on each side until the spring was fully compressed

takes a bit of fiddling but I certainly wouldn't think of taking a strut off with the spring only held by a single compressor

hope this helps

hawaii

[Dara]

if you disconnect the front anti roll bar an loosen the bolts that hold the lower wishbone onto the chassis rails you should get plenty of room to get the shocks an springs in an out

[NickTurney]

top spring plate

Ah ok. it sounds like you removed the top spring plate with the whole unit (spring and damper) and then refitted that on the new spring and damper on the bench. then fitted the whole lot back onto the truck.
is that correct?

This is assuming that the top spring plate (with the 3 bolts on) can be removed with the damper and spring unit.

Cheers
Nick

[TonyN]

Hi mate, just undo the bottom bolt, and the top three nuts and strut should just fall out.

Then you can do all the hard work with it in a vice.

Or bring it to me....

[NickTurney]

Lift all Done!! Thanks chaps!

Hi All,

Thanks for your help. i did the front shocks and springs on Saturday morning.

A few things to note. I found that with using the bottle jack, i could push the top wishbone down which allowed the old and new dampers to slide out and in really easily. I did as Tony suggested (on the phone) and note / mark the location of the top spring plate in orientation with the bottom of the shock so to make sure it lined up when i put everything back in.
The old springs were MUCH softer than the new ones. but the shocks were the same length (?)

To fit the new ones, i place the new spring on my work bench, placed a piece of timber through the middle of it and clamped down either end. Then i had free room to fit the spring compressors on either side of the spring, and it was held in place while it was wound up.
I opened the compressors as wide as they would go initially, then placed on the spring, at least one coil in. In the end, i ended up with a good 2 - 3 inches of thread out of each compressor. But this was done at 5 complete turns of the ratchet on one side, then the other, then the first then the other ...... until it was compressed enough. Unclamped it from the bench and fitted the damper, internal cover and rubber bushes etc in the top and was able to tighten it down. The first one was trial and error, the second one was done in one go.
To remove the compressors, i used a steel bar through the bottom shock mount, clamped to the bench. this held the shock while i undid the compressors.

To fit back into the truck, with the top mount in place, and 3 nuts just to hold it in and stop it from dropping out, i could easily wind the bottle jack by hand as required to let the lower shock mount slot into place. Everything was then tightened back up (bottom mount, top mounts, and anti roll bar drop hanger), wheel refitted, and then raise it to remove the axel stand and then lower it back down.

And a measured 2" lift was achieved! - 33" from floor to wheel arch before at the front to 35" after.

Now i just need the 2" body lift and bigger boots. Oh, and a wheel alignment.

The only issue i had was one of the top mount nuts was buggered! i had to use molegrip's to get it off. I'm assuming that a standard 10mm captive nut from halfrauds is fine to use?

[Karma Supra]

Good work!

Before and after pics??

[Dirtbag1402]

Hi mate, just undo the bottom bolt, and the top three nuts and strut should just fall out.

Then you can do all the hard work with it in a vice.

Or bring it to me....

Ain't that the truth!

Tony recently did a major service and 2" lift suspension replacement on my truck. Much easier to let a professional do it

BTW - my truck now runs so much nicer than before. But then - I did have a rear shock with no gas issue. And it's so much smoother now for the service!!

Cheers T!

Dirtbag

[TonyN]

My pleasure.