4" lifters, advice needed.

[monsterz4]

I folks.
I recently bought a Gen 3 with 4" body lift and suspension lift also. The bolts that have been used are less than 14mm diameter which from what i have read, is a bit on the weedy side. Can anyone advice me what bolts they used for their body lift, and the best place to get them from. Or will i need to have them made up, in which case, what spec should i be looking at? Also, the Gen 3 appears to only have 4 blocks on each side, where as would i be right in saying the Gen 2 has 5 on each side???

Also, on a side note, i am running 35x12.5x16.5 and suffering from some rubbing on full lock. Is there a best way of preventing it, or that just one of the trade offs to running massive tyres.

[NiftyNev]

Now that you've started another thread I may as well at least answer the mount question. There's 5 each side.

Nev

[lord_flashart]

They are probably M12 bolts which are more than adequate if they are good quality.
Original are M12 x 1.5mm fine thread but most people fit standard M12 x 1.75mm bolts like I have.


Thanks,


Ray.

[Apache]

He has a 4" bodylift, not the usual 2". Personally I'd go bigger on the bolts than M12.

[wishbone]

They need to be the correct tensile strength as well - From memory they should be grade 8 ?

[sledge]

Now that you've started another thread I may as well at least answer the mount question. There's 5 each side.

Nev

sorry nev your wrong there is only 8 body mounts on the 1996 surf. the B pillar bracket was never installed from factory.

[sledge]

notes from 4crawler

Body Mount Brackets:

Certain vehicles, namely the 1996 Toyota 4Runner, are missing the B-pillar body mount brackets from the factory. For some reason, the brackets weren't attached to the frame, although the mounting plates and holes are present in the floor of the body. Because of the added stress of a body lift, its important to have all the body mount locations available for the most support. Below is a picture of a bolt on body mount bracket kit for the 1996 Toyota 4Runner:

[lord_flashart]

They need to be the correct tensile strength as well - From memory they should be grade 8 ?

Yeah, 8.8 Grade at least (Maybe 10.9 if you can find them or upgrade to 12.9 socket caps (allen key type)) but M12 should still be fine though.
Before anyone jumps on me being all technical, the problem is the shear stress but the shear strength generally increases with the tensile strength anyway.

Due to the fact that they are very long make sure no one used studding (threaded rod) as unless specifically ordered as 8.8 Grade it may only be standard mild steel 4.6 Grade which would be bad (and snappy!)


Thanks,

Ray.

[monsterz4]

Yeah, 8.8 Grade at least (Maybe 10.9 if you can find them or upgrade to 12.9 socket caps (allen key type)) but M12 should still be fine though.
Before anyone jumps on me being all technical, the problem is the shear stress but the shear strength generally increases with the tensile strength anyway.

Due to the fact that they are very long make sure no one used studding (threaded rod) as unless specifically ordered as 8.8 Grade it may only be standard mild steel 4.6 Grade which would be bad (and snappy!)


Thanks,

Ray.

Thanks for that Ray. Are these going to have to be specially made, or are there recognised places where i can get this stuff from. I have thought about going for a 2" lift, but i do like the silliness of the 4" lift, so ideally would like to keep it but get it set up right, and most importantly, safely.

I think going to 33" might be better than sticking with the 35" tyres though. I don't like the rubbing on full lock.

Mark

[wishbone]

If you're going to drop the tyres down to 33" then you can drop the bodylift down to 2" if you have a suspension lift..

[TonyN]

No one does a 4" body lift, LA Supertrux sells a 3" one. I make and fit 2" or 1 1/2" cos its less involved and dosn't have the leverage on the bodywork that bigger lifts do.

If you're handy with a welder, you could fab 2" lower mounts welded to the body with the load spread better, then use 2" blocks and more sensible length bolts. Or raise the chassis mounts 2" if its easier.

All you need to know about Body Lifts is here...

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

[monsterz4]

No one does a 4" body lift, LA Supertrux sells a 3" one. I make and fit 2" or 1 1/2" cos its less involved and dosn't have the leverage on the bodywork that bigger lifts do.

If you're handy with a welder, you could fab 2" lower mounts welded to the body with the load spread better, then use 2" blocks and more sensible length bolts. Or raise the chassis mounts 2" if its easier.

All you need to know about Body Lifts is here...

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

I really haven't a clue anymore. I just bought the truck for a bit of fun and its turning into a pain in the a55.

The 2" kits you supply, does that include everything needed, including the bolts and all the other gubbins that will be needed to do the job, as if i was starting from a standard truck? Are there any inherant problems when lowering a truck back down from 4" to 2"? All my brake lines, fuel lines work fine with no problems. How much would it cost for all the parts?

Can 33" tyres be used with a 2" lift?

Thanks for the advice.

Mark

[Growler]

I really haven't a clue anymore. I just bought the truck for a bit of fun and its turning into a pain in the a55.

The 2" kits you supply, does that include everything needed, including the bolts and all the other gubbins that will be needed to do the job, as if i was starting from a standard truck? Are there any inherant problems when lowering a truck back down from 4" to 2"? All my brake lines, fuel lines work fine with no problems. How much would it cost for all the parts?

Can 33" tyres be used with a 2" lift?

Thanks for the advice.

Mark

For 33's you'd need a 2" body AND a 2" suspension lift, but your truck would be more stable doing the lift this way.

I had both lift kits from Tony and it included all the neccessary bits and bobs

[lord_flashart]

Thanks for that Ray. Are these going to have to be specially made, or are there recognised places where i can get this stuff from. I have thought about going for a 2" lift, but i do like the silliness of the 4" lift, so ideally would like to keep it but get it set up right, and most importantly, safely.

I think going to 33" might be better than sticking with the 35" tyres though. I don't like the rubbing on full lock.

Mark

Check what you have now, you may be worrying over nothing, if you need anything then let me know what (PM me if you can) and I'll sort it out for you.


Thanks,

Ray.

[TonyN]

If you can get it up/down to Basingstoke I can have a squint at it for you, and maybe see if we can make it acceptable without messing with it to much.

Dropping it down shouldn't be a problem, would need to check if they've altered the gearbox linkages much, and the fuel filler hose should be to long.

But you got it for its 35's, don't write it off yet, it may just a little finishing off and still be a cool toy.

At worst, we may need to make the blocks 3", and do some trimming of the front to stop rubbing or you may be fine with the 4" block, if your happy to invest a little more cash and time into it.

I don't know what sort of suspension lift it has, you may be able to lift it more with new shocks and springs, and take a little out of the OTT body lift.