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  • #16
    Originally posted by BigYin View Post
    new hose clamps - good idea! - will source some before we start the job!!

    Good pics - can't quite work out where the thermostat housing is, but once I take a look under the bonnet and compare with your pic I'm sure it'll make sense
    It's behind the alternator. Mine looks different as I've removed the aircon pump that sits above the alt. Pic taken from the drivers side wing.

    Rob.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by wishbone View Post
      It's behind the alternator. Mine looks different as I've removed the aircon pump that sits above the alt. Pic taken from the drivers side wing.
      What engine is that?
      Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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      • #18
        There's a 3.0TD under all the gunk..

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        • #19
          Ah, got you. I thought the heat shield at the top was the turbo. Just a bit confuddled.
          Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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          • #20
            christ , this flush and refill sounds a nightmare.

            Best get all my facts together before i try it, may end up removing wrong hoses, watering worng parts and ending up with a nackered engine!


            maybe ill just do a rad flush, but then, there will still be crap in the rest of it.
            My Surf eats knuckles for breakfast!

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            • #21
              its a doddle, just follow the pics, done mine both ways from the heater matrix hoses (in pics) then flushed the rad again on its own, then I poured coolant into the matrix hose through a funnel once all bolted back together, till the rad overflowed, got nine litres in, ran to op temp and now waiting for it all to cool so can check rad level, no overflowing, gurgling or other dodgy happenings, just do it. Hazzo

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              • #22
                Rear heater

                I was looking at this excellent thread as I am helping a friend do an engine flush. He has a 3rd gen like mine but looks as if the previous owner only used tap water instead of coolant. You can feel some crunchy build ups as you squeeze the pipes. The only thing I'm not too sure about is how do we make sure the rear heater pipes are empty of the old water.
                By looking at Wishbone's photos I am not totally sure if the pipes are the same as the ones in the 3rd gen.
                Also are you suppose to stick the hose in both? And for the front heater are you supposed to push water in both pipes, the one left of the matrix and the one right of the matrix?and where does this water come out of?The bottom of the block/thermostat housing?
                Cheers
                Last edited by tashtego; 30 December 2012, 07:12.

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                • #23
                  Just to add, it looks like the 3rd Gen heater matrix set is slightly different from the thread pictures ( 2nd Gen 3.0 L)... Is there a picture on the forum of the heater control valve/matrix on the forum?
                  cheers

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                  • #24
                    What colour / how bad does your coolant have to look to go to the lengths of flushing as outlined above?
                    I had my coolant changed by a local garage about 2 years ago and had a new 'stat put in, coolant that came out looked the same as the stuff that went in and two years on, the new stuff still looks new. Heaters do and always have worked fine, no crunchy pipes, could my system still be full that I am blissfully unaware of?

                    According to a Toyota mechanic, latest Toyota red coolant should last for at least 10 years and well over a hundred thousand miles without the need to change, not cheap though.

                    Cheers

                    Ben

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Ben_D View Post
                      What colour / how bad does your coolant have to look to go to the lengths of flushing as outlined above?
                      I had my coolant changed by a local garage about 2 years ago and had a new 'stat put in, coolant that came out looked the same as the stuff that went in and two years on, the new stuff still looks new. Heaters do and always have worked fine, no crunchy pipes, could my system still be full that I am blissfully unaware of?

                      According to a Toyota mechanic, latest Toyota red coolant should last for at least 10 years and well over a hundred thousand miles without the need to change, not cheap though.

                      Cheers

                      Ben
                      If the levels have not dropped, then leave it alone.
                      You can get the garage to do a coolant quality check just to be sure.
                      Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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