Cooling Fan

[Tallyman]

Hi guys,

Had the dreaded overheat problem on Friday taking my caravan off for the weekend. Not sure why it happened but I was running with the ECS on and noticed the temp guage was well over to the right just before we got to a
rather steep hill leading up the A417 just outside Cheltenham. We'd only done about 5-6 miles, all mostly on the flat by then. Managed to get to the top by putting the heater on with the fan at full blast, which cooled everything back down OK. When I had a chance to pull in a layby to check the rad I noticed the fan turned very easily, so obviously I've got the problem of lack of oil in the fan clutch.

So here's my question. On a 93 3.0L TD, how do you get the fan off the block to repair it? I'm OK doing anything like this with a manual but the lack of one for the Surf is causing me to take things very easy, especially since I've never worked on a diesel before. Also, has anyone managed to get the correct silicon oil from a Toyota dealer yet? If so, how much and what part number do they use?

The daft part is that coming back today, even driving up a few long hills on the A417 didn't get the temp needle moving off normal at all.

[rubblebags]

Hi guys,

Had the dreaded overheat problem on Friday taking my caravan off for the weekend. Not sure why it happened but I was running with the ECS on and noticed the temp guage was well over to the right just before we got to a
rather steep hill leading up the A417 just outside Cheltenham. We'd only done about 5-6 miles, all mostly on the flat by then. Managed to get to the top by putting the heater on with the fan at full blast, which cooled everything back down OK. When I had a chance to pull in a layby to check the rad I noticed the fan turned very easily, so obviously I've got the problem of lack of oil in the fan clutch.

So here's my question. On a 93 3.0L TD, how do you get the fan off the block to repair it? I'm OK doing anything like this with a manual but the lack of one for the Surf is causing me to take things very easy, especially since I've never worked on a diesel before. Also, has anyone managed to get the correct silicon oil from a Toyota dealer yet? If so, how much and what part number do they use?

The daft part is that coming back today, even driving up a few long hills on the A417 didn't get the temp needle moving off normal at all.

Five threads below this one " Feeling the heat " Just for a starter.


Geoff.

[mart 870]

Just because the fan turns easily it doesnt mean that its faulty, i`ve got a year old Merc Sprinter van and the warmer the engine is the easier it turns.

To work out if mine is doing as it should i got the car nice and warm, took it for a blast down the motorway (if you go as fast as you can with o/d off you wont be going too fast but you`ll still working the engine hard) pull into a layby off the motorway as soon as you can and stick it in neutral. Pop the bonnet and get someone to rev it up, you`ll soon know if the fan is working ok or not if its working it`ll shift loads of air! As a camparison try revving it when the engine is relativly cold and you`ll see the difference - the fan hardly shifts any air at all.

To be honest it sounds like you have the same trouble as me, the rad simply cant flow enough water when it needs it most. I`m having my oil cooler taken out of my rad tomorrow and i`ll let you know how i get on.

[europa88]

Hi guys,

Had the dreaded overheat problem on Friday taking my caravan off for the weekend. Not sure why it happened but I was running with the ECS on and noticed the temp guage was well over to the right just before we got to a
rather steep hill leading up the A417 just outside Cheltenham. We'd only done about 5-6 miles, all mostly on the flat by then. Managed to get to the top by putting the heater on with the fan at full blast, which cooled everything back down OK. When I had a chance to pull in a layby to check the rad I noticed the fan turned very easily, so obviously I've got the problem of lack of oil in the fan clutch.

So here's my question. On a 93 3.0L TD, how do you get the fan off the block to repair it? I'm OK doing anything like this with a manual but the lack of one for the Surf is causing me to take things very easy, especially since I've never worked on a diesel before. Also, has anyone managed to get the correct silicon oil from a Toyota dealer yet? If so, how much and what part number do they use?

The daft part is that coming back today, even driving up a few long hills on the A417 didn't get the temp needle moving off normal at all.

I havn't actually tried this towing, but!!

The surf auto has a relatively small torque converter which relies on higher slip
to overcome it's deficiencies! So running in the ETC powermode is using the converter's viscous properties all the time at normal towing speeds! It would be better to whenever possible get into lock up mode ie. ETC off , o/d off! The engine has enough torque to allow this at most towing situations.This wont help for steep hills, but the problem is made easier by this technique
and It's certainly works on my surf as the transmission temps drop as soon as lockup is engaged.

I hope you get the probs sorted, but my guess is that on a hot day an unmodifed auto will almost certainly acheive very high transmission temps and in some instances coolant will overheat1

I am sure there are many happy tow-ers out there but can they be sure the trans temps aren't in the very high region ie. 110/120 degrees. Not good!

[ffp42]

Towing & Cooling

Guys, reasonably new to towing with an auto but willing to share my experiences - and theories, so far.
3.0 TD 93 Auto dragging 1.5 tons of Avondale, missus, two dogs etc.etc.
Despite what the dealer and others said regarding the need to flush the engine oil and the coolant on the 3.0s I have carried this out. Oil changed to hi-qual. fully synthetic oil courtesy of my employer, (must ask them if this is OK sometime!). The main effect of this is that the pressure runs a knotch higher than before. Flushing the coolant took app. 30 minutes to get all the residue out, didn't think it was ever going to stop. Coolant sits rock steady at the identical point for all conditions I have subjected the car to so far.
Regarding towing techniques I find that it is only necessary to use the ETC for overtaking where it will hold a gear to a higher speed without changing up. At all other times I find that non-ETC with overdive engaged is the best set up. Pulls at 60mph in overdive @ 2000revs, including over the Orwell Bridge for those of you that venture into Suffolk.
What I have found is that you can induce large amounts of converter slip by using too much throttle, with little gain in acceleration. All that energy from the engine has to go somewhere, so it seems obvious that it is transferred into the auto fluid. The fluid then passes this energy into the combined radiator, presumably causing the water side to overheat as the auto oil appears to run much hotter than engine coolant.
Does this sound reasonable? I stand to be corrected by anybody more experienced in these matters.
Intend to change the auto oil soon, when I pluck up courage, as my employer has also allowed me to test!! some Textron 3 for them.

Colin

[europa88]

Guys, reasonably new to towing with an auto but willing to share my experiences - and theories, so far.
3.0 TD 93 Auto dragging 1.5 tons of Avondale, missus, two dogs etc.etc.
Despite what the dealer and others said regarding the need to flush the engine oil and the coolant on the 3.0s I have carried this out. Oil changed to hi-qual. fully synthetic oil courtesy of my employer, (must ask them if this is OK sometime!). The main effect of this is that the pressure runs a knotch higher than before. Flushing the coolant took app. 30 minutes to get all the residue out, didn't think it was ever going to stop. Coolant sits rock steady at the identical point for all conditions I have subjected the car to so far.
Regarding towing techniques I find that it is only necessary to use the ETC for overtaking where it will hold a gear to a higher speed without changing up. At all other times I find that non-ETC with overdive engaged is the best set up. Pulls at 60mph in overdive @ 2000revs, including over the Orwell Bridge for those of you that venture into Suffolk.
What I have found is that you can induce large amounts of converter slip by using too much throttle, with little gain in acceleration. All that energy from the engine has to go somewhere, so it seems obvious that it is transferred into the auto fluid. The fluid then passes this energy into the combined radiator, presumably causing the water side to overheat as the auto oil appears to run much hotter than engine coolant.
Does this sound reasonable? I stand to be corrected by anybody more experienced in these matters.
Intend to change the auto oil soon, when I pluck up courage, as my employer has also allowed me to test!! some Textron 3 for them.

Colin

That seems right to me, glad to hear the theory works in practice!
Regarding Dextron 3 auto oil, I topped my trans fluid up with dextron 3 on the fitting of my trans cooler, then suddenly thought 'was it 3 or 2 already in there as i had no way of knowing what had been used in Japan. So I decided to flush and fill with Dextron 3. Did some research and found that Toyota and Honda plus a few other jap manufacturers do not recommend dextron 3 for transmissions of this vintage! Apparantly the oil is too abrasive and has obviously better grab properties but at the expense of longer transmission life!

I dont know if this is 100% true or the manufactures are erring on the side of caution, knowing the industry they probably are ! But I am refilling with fresh dextron 2 and It's cheaper!

[Mart]

Auto cooler heating water.....?

Guys,
just a thought but if the last thing the 'cooled' radiator water passes before it goes back to the engine is a baking hot atf cooler surely the return water will become hot and provide less cooling to the engine?

Therefore if you fit a secondary atf cooler (air/oil), thus reducing the atf oil temp, then return water will be heated less and therefore give better cooling to the engine?

Given that the restriction is so bad there is alot of contact with the atf cooler in the bottom of the rad. and plenty of time to reheat that lovely cooled rad water.

any thoughts ?

cheers