Clutch or gearbox?

[Bibs]

Need some advice an have spent ages lookin round here an can't seem to find any answers.

Last day or 2 it doesn't want to go into second gear, happens mostly from 3rd to 2nd but this morning I couldn't get 2nd from 1st and ended up rollin' down the road whilst tryin to get 2nd.

Is this the clutch finally giving up or something else?

[TonyN]

How far down does the clutch bite when pulling away? if its down near the bottom of the pedal travel then its probably the clutch. Normally other gears are easier to get while driving and selecting 1st while stationary is a bugger as the clutch wears out.

Could be the plastic bush in the gear lever pivot as well, this falls apart, and makes it hard to get the gearlever in the right place to select gears. A much cheaper option.

[Bibs]

How far down does the clutch bite when pulling away? if its down near the bottom of the pedal travel then its probably the clutch. Normally other gears are easier to get while driving and selecting 1st while stationary is a bugger as the clutch wears out.

Could be the plastic bush in the gear lever pivot as well, this falls apart, and makes it hard to get the gearlever in the right place to select gears. A much cheaper option.

It's about half an inch to an inch off the floor - knew I would be in need of one when I bought it a year ago so money is set aside - might check its not the gear lever pivot but me thinks maybe it's time to replace the clutch. Cheers for the info. Just wanted to check before I replaced it.

[The Lang-Shankit Scunner]

If its cable is it poss that cable need adjusting? Or if its hydraulic would a bleed not do the trick, i only ask cos arent clutches near the top of the biting point when theyre worn?

This will halp me to learn aswell im not professin to know more than Tony

[Bibs]

If its cable is it poss that cable need adjusting? Or if its hydraulic would a bleed not do the trick, i only ask cos arent clutches near the top of the biting point when theyre worn?

This will halp me to learn aswell im not professin to know more than Tony

Wouldn't have a clue mate

[The Lang-Shankit Scunner]

Wouldn't have a clue mate

Im unfamiliar with the quirks of a manual surf so i dont either its just thats how a manual car works in my mind.

One of the very few things that work in my mind!! I have a faulty mind

[Bibs]

Im unfamiliar with the quirks of a manual surf so i dont either its just thats how a manual car works in my mind.

One of the very few things that work in my mind!! I have a faulty mind

Well I have been searching around - it's hydrolic an it could also be the master or slave cylinders. Gonna get the fluid changed as level reads ok and check the bit Tony said and have a general mooch, the mechanic mate an hubby that is (when he has finished shouting about it)

[Vagrant No2]

Worn clutch usually bites high and engine revs higher then usual due to clutch slipping. Low bite point is/can be weak hyraulic system ie worn/sticking seals in master and/or slave cylinder causing the symptoms you describe. Check level of clutch fluid as could be simple refill and bleed out. If fluid is black and thick the seals are breaking down in slave and/or master cylinder. I would recommend changing both slave and master cylinders if fluid found to be black as contaminated fluid in one cylinder can affect/damage seals in other.
Gearstick bush change makes the world of difference to shifting , I know , I done mine.

[Bibs]

Worn clutch usually bites high and engine revs higher then usual due to clutch slipping. Low bite point is/can be weak hyraulic system ie worn/sticking seals in master and/or slave cylinder causing the symptoms you describe. Check level of clutch fluid as could be simple refill and bleed out. If fluid is black and thick the seals are breaking down in slave and/or master cylinder. I would recommend changing both slave and master cylinders if fluid found to be black as contaminated fluid in one cylinder can affect/damage seals in other.
Gearstick bush change makes the world of difference to shifting , I know , I done mine.

I did lose the clutch pedal a fEw months back and had to pump it a few times to get it back but has been fine since. Fluid level is fine checked earlier. Will replace though and check as above. Cheers.

[Vagrant No2]

If you bleed the system and the seals are worn you may loose the clutch pedal pressure all together as the seals finally collapse when bleed nipple is opened and never get the pedal pressure back.
Best bleed slowly and do not press clutch pedal fully to floor , just half way . I have done this my self on suspected worn hyraulic clutches , but eventually the slave and/or master cylinders needed replacing in the future.

[Bibs]

If you bleed the system and the seals are worn you may loose the clutch pedal pressure all together as the seals finally collapse when bleed nipple is opened and never get the pedal pressure back.
Best bleed slowly and do not press clutch pedal fully to floor , just half way . I have done this my self on suspected worn hyraulic clutches , but eventually the slave and/or master cylinders needed replacing in the future.

I will pass this on, hopefully it will be the cheaper option. Fingers crossed eh.

[TonyN]

Like Rick said, it could be the cylinders, I normally just get underneath and get someone to press the pedal, if the clutch fork moves all the way its OK, if you can move it further with a bar and the gears select easier then you not getting the full pedal travel down at the clutch.

[craigl]

Myself and someone else had similar problems on here not long back.

I had the same symptoms, pedal 'feel' went then back next day then pop two days later 100 miles from home no pedal at all. Lost a little fluid but not much, still above minimum mark. One RAC man later and we bled system, refilled with new fluid and got good pressure very easily. Went for a little more and lost it all again and pretty much all the new fluid went in two pumps. Refilled and tried again and got ok pressure back and off I went.

Have been driving ok for about a month, circa say 2k miles all well. Yesterday morning had to pump pedal to get pressure. Fearing the worst ordered new slave cylinder which should arrive tomorrow. Today nothing at all from the pedal till the last few mm of travel - just enough to get first but reverse a no no whilst running. Can select reverse with pedal down, start engine and go. Not a big issue as can manage without just about. I know my clutch is nearly gone, doesn't EVER slip even towing 2 tonnes up welsh hills but has juddered a little for prob 15k miles. Doesn't get worse though.

I'm going to fit the slave myself me thinks on sunday plus a willing child to help bleed her. Has anyone got any tips/advice? Changed a leyland roadrunner slave cylinder a long time ago in a muddy field with a little verbal support so have a rough idea. Will need to purchase / bodge a ring spanner though as 14 years of english weather prob means it's going to be a biatch to remove. Does anyone know of the top of their head what size spanner? Making an ass out of you and me by assuming it'll be a 10 or 11mm.

thanks

craig

[Bibs]

Like Rick said, it could be the cylinders, I normally just get underneath and get someone to press the pedal, if the clutch fork moves all the way its OK, if you can move it further with a bar and the gears select easier then you not getting the full pedal travel down at the clutch.

Will do.

[Bibs]

Myself and someone else had similar problems on here not long back.

I had the same symptoms, pedal 'feel' went then back next day then pop two days later 100 miles from home no pedal at all. Lost a little fluid but not much, still above minimum mark. One RAC man later and we bled system, refilled with new fluid and got good pressure very easily. Went for a little more and lost it all again and pretty much all the new fluid went in two pumps. Refilled and tried again and got ok pressure back and off I went.

Have been driving ok for about a month, circa say 2k miles all well. Yesterday morning had to pump pedal to get pressure. Fearing the worst ordered new slave cylinder which should arrive tomorrow. Today nothing at all from the pedal till the last few mm of travel - just enough to get first but reverse a no no whilst running. Can select reverse with pedal down, start engine and go. Not a big issue as can manage without just about. I know my clutch is nearly gone, doesn't EVER slip even towing 2 tonnes up welsh hills but has juddered a little for prob 15k miles. Doesn't get worse though.

I'm going to fit the slave myself me thinks on sunday plus a willing child to help bleed her. Has anyone got any tips/advice? Changed a leyland roadrunner slave cylinder a long time ago in a muddy field with a little verbal support so have a rough idea. Will need to purchase / bodge a ring spanner though as 14 years of english weather prob means it's going to be a biatch to remove. Does anyone know of the top of their head what size spanner? Making an ass out of you and me by assuming it'll be a 10 or 11mm.

thanks

craig

Wasn't too bad this morning, then on me way home from work I got stuck in the middle of a crossroads, forgot an went to change in to 2nd an couldn't - wouldn't go into 1st either.

Fluid change early next week so will have a good look.