New Springs Req'd ??

[jonny595]

So having read a few bits and pieces on the site I went and measured the distance between the middle of the wheel hub and the bottom of the wheel arch and lookout its only 20 inches, the accepted wisdon would seem to be this should be 22 inches ( that is what it is on the front by the way ), the wheels look like OE and are fitted with 265/70 r15's,

so the question is do I need new springs ( it would appear that way ) and should I be doing the shocks at the same time, I have seen what the price of the springs are from milners but I may look for some other options, is it worth replacing with electrically adjustable ones ?

also how big a job is it to just do the springs, is it doable by a bluffing amateur with the back up of a large forum of helpers ?

all wisdom on the subject gratefully received ?

Forgot to mention its a 93 SSRX 3.0 limited

[rich]

Did a search on rear springs.

This lot may help!!!

Rich.

http://www.yotasurf.co.uk/Forums/sea...searchid=23331

[laser_jock99]

So having read a few bits and pieces on the site I went and measured the distance between the middle of the wheel hub and the bottom of the wheel arch and lookout its only 20 inches, the accepted wisdon would seem to be this should be 22 inches ( that is what it is on the front by the way ), the wheels look like OE and are fitted with 265/70 r15's,

so the question is do I need new springs ( it would appear that way ) and should I be doing the shocks at the same time, I have seen what the price of the springs are from milners but I may look for some other options, is it worth replacing with electrically adjustable ones ?

also how big a job is it to just do the springs, is it doable by a bluffing amateur with the back up of a large forum of helpers ?

all wisdom on the subject gratefully received ?

Forgot to mention its a 93 SSRX 3.0 limited

If your Surf looks like the one in the photo (butt sag syndrome) then yes you need new rear coils. The 'after' photo shows the finished truck.

Milners springs are okay- but are regarded by many as mere replacements for the originals. Most people here crave that extra bit of lift and go for the heavy duty Roughtrax / LA Supertrux springs which both come from the same source in Australia. These will give about 1.5" lift above factory height. When you change the springs it also makes sense to fit decent new shocks, maybe beefier torsion bars and then new shocks to the front as well. Crank up the torsion bars a little to match the lifted rear- and voila - you have a 2" suspension lift. Now you just need some bigger tyres......

The whole thing is do-able with a few tools but a decent trolley jack, spring compressors and set of axle stands are a MUST. I allowed one myself one sunny Saturday in summer for the rear coil / shock replacement job.

[jonny595]

well I think mine falls somewhere in between, not as bad as the first one but certainly not as good as the second one.

i have the trolley jack, axle stands and reasonable box of tools but no spring compressors but i reckon I can hire them from nearby.

it does sound like once you start to change the shocks you get in to a not inexpensive catalogue of modifications, back, then front, then torsion bars...what sort of money would that cost without going too mad ?.....i realise that is sort of a 'how long is a piece of string' type question...

[TOYMOTA]

HI.
I brought a 2" lift kit from LA Supertucks cost around £500 inc vat.

For that you get 4 es9000 shocks 2 uprated and lifted rear springs and uprated torsion bars.

They are PUKKA man.

[Linda]

HI.
I brought a 2" lift kit from LA Supertucks cost around £500 inc vat.

For that you get 4 es9000 shocks 2 uprated and lifted rear springs and uprated torsion bars.

They are PUKKA man.

DITTO... Love mine - really improved the ride and handling especially off road.
That said... LASupertrux will sell the bits seperately as do others, and unless you're gonna fit a winch etc at the front the standard tortion bar and ES3000 shocks (your existing front shocks may be ok) will be fine.
Dont wind the front tortion bar up more than 1 1/2" tho.... the spline settings have been posted a few times - do a search and you shd ind them.

[TonyN]

well I think mine falls somewhere in between, not as bad as the first one but certainly not as good as the second one.

i have the trolley jack, axle stands and reasonable box of tools but no spring compressors but i reckon I can hire them from nearby.

it does sound like once you start to change the shocks you get in to a not inexpensive catalogue of modifications, back, then front, then torsion bars...what sort of money would that cost without going too mad ?.....i realise that is sort of a 'how long is a piece of string' type question...

You don't 'need' coil compressors, undo the panhard rod, shocks and the brake pipe bracket and the axle will drop far enough to slide them right in.

The truck sits nice with +2" rear springs and standard front, but you can keep on buying stuff if you want!

You only really need shocks if you want to make the most of the extra flex the new springs provide while offroading, on the road, the old shocks are fine, and you keep the adjustableness.

[Mart]

quick question......if you go with the 2" lifted springs and shocks at the back, and do the front torsion bar, also 2" lift, do you not end up with probs off-road like brake hoses are too short ? or anything else that I can't think of right now ???? I would have thought that a max articulation you'd make the brake hoses tort....not a good thing me thinks ?!?!?!!!

coz for £500 thats sounds kind interesting. I need new springs at the back anyway and was gonna do the shocks just coz i was there and looking at body lifts seems a little complex with no real world benefit.

Answers on a post card please...or right here which ever!!!

[jonny595]

well we ain't too far away from each other so maybe we should hook up at some point and compare notes on this, i'm off on me hols in a minute but will give you a shout when i return

[Linda]

quick question......if you go with the 2" lifted springs and shocks at the back, and do the front torsion bar, also 2" lift, do you not end up with probs off-road like brake hoses are too short ? or anything else that I can't think of right now ???? I would have thought that a max articulation you'd make the brake hoses tort....not a good thing me thinks ?!?!?!!!

coz for £500 thats sounds kind interesting. I need new springs at the back anyway and was gonna do the shocks just coz i was there and looking at body lifts seems a little complex with no real world benefit.

Answers on a post card please...or right here which ever!!!

The front tortion bar should not be adjusted beyond 1 1/2" or you will get excessive wear on the CV joints etc.

The 2" coils and changes to the tortion bar can be done with the existing hoses etc. I have this done on my 3L 2nd Gen - and have tested the articulation to the full offroad... with no problems with the hoses...

One of the main advantage of the body lift is to give you the room to get bigger tyres under there - hence more ground clearance off road. However any more than 2" body lift and you need to start extending things like the gear lever, Steering column etc..

Give Supertrux a ring... they're experts at all sorts of lift and will be happy to advise you...

[TonyN]

+2" spring on the rear will be OK generally, if you jack the rear of the truck up and let the axle hang, it will just pull slightly on the rubber brake line. I've made a small block to raise the mounting bracket on the axle and now it is fine.

The hard brake lines have a coil in them between the body and chassis, to let them vibrate without going hard and brittle, just uncoil it a little when B/lifting the truck.

Most wires have enough slack in them to accomodate 2" B/L, the steering column runs out of spline at over 1", so an extension is usually needed, easy to make. and the rad needs lowering by the amount of body lift to line the fan with the shroud, or go electric and leave it be.

2" and over will need a little bending of the gear levers, or opening out the shifter hole to avoid the lever hitting the edge of the hole, or LA Supertrux does a little gismo to raise the shifters from the gearbox if you have a manual. Autobox lever mech need adjusting to line up properly as well.

Nothing that can't be sorted in a weekend.

[da SLUG man]

HI.
I brought a 2" lift kit from LA Supertucks cost around £500 inc vat.

For that you get 4 es9000 shocks 2 uprated and lifted rear springs and uprated torsion bars.

They are PUKKA man.

£500!!!!! for 2 "!!!!!

dude.... that's a lotta wedge!
glad i don't have torsion bars, must be expensive!

[TOYMOTA]

No not really mate.

You no,s the price

You pays yu money.

[Mart]

well we ain't too far away from each other so maybe we should hook up at some point and compare notes on this, i'm off on me hols in a minute but will give you a shout when i return

yeah nom probs. drop me a line when you get back. Enjoy your hols.