mineral-based to synthetic oil flush-out

[Jeff]

[IMG]
I have heard that mineral-based and synthetic oils do not mix well and that switching to a synthetic oil requires a thorough flush-out of the component (crankcase, transfer case, or differential) so that damage will not occur due to limited lubrication as a result of the mixing of the two types of oils.

To what extent, beyond a drain plug removal and complete drip-draining, should these components be emptied of the factory oils prior to filling with synthetic lubricants? I once upgraded to a synthetic differential fluid in a one-ton two-wheel-drive truck; I recall draining the gear fluid via the drain plug, removing the differential cover, and with turkey baster and catch pan in hand completely flushing all remaining factory differential oil from the differential. I cannot, however, remember what fluid I was using to clean out the gear housing.

Also, is a synthetic automatic transmission fluid available? In my effort to keep my Surf running well for many years (and kilometers) to come I am planning a five-box synthetic fluid upgrade.

Thanks to anyone who may offer advice. I check the posts on this site often and find the information both informative and interesting.


Jeff
Okinawa, Japan

[The Mighty WAH]

Synthetic Oils

[IMG]
I have heard that mineral-based and synthetic oils do not mix well and that switching to a synthetic oil requires a thorough flush-out of the component (crankcase, transfer case, or differential) so that damage will not occur due to limited lubrication as a result of the mixing of the two types of oils.

To what extent, beyond a drain plug removal and complete drip-draining, should these components be emptied of the factory oils prior to filling with synthetic lubricants? I once upgraded to a synthetic differential fluid in a one-ton two-wheel-drive truck; I recall draining the gear fluid via the drain plug, removing the differential cover, and with turkey baster and catch pan in hand completely flushing all remaining factory differential oil from the differential. I cannot, however, remember what fluid I was using to clean out the gear housing.

Also, is a synthetic automatic transmission fluid available? In my effort to keep my Surf running well for many years (and kilometers) to come I am planning a five-box synthetic fluid upgrade.

Thanks to anyone who may offer advice. I check the posts on this site often and find the information both informative and interesting.


Jeff
Okinawa, Japan

Jeff, In the UK you can buy flushing oil by the gallon. I used this when I changed over. It's very thin and has a very limited life, something like 30 minutes. You basically get the engine very hot, without driving, and then dump it straight out and it takes virtually all of the oil and deposited junk with it. Seem to remember, in the days of old, guys used to mix 50/50 new engine oil with paraffin to do the same jiob.
Synthetic oils are not recommended for most SURFs due to the design of the Auto-box clutch materials.
Suggest a good search through the forums as there have been many posts in this matter.
Fully changing the autobox oil is somewhat of a challenge. There are various methods written out in the forums. You will probably find the one I posted that worked for me.
Colin

[Jeff]

Jeff, In the UK you can buy flushing oil by the gallon. I used this when I changed over. It's very thin and has a very limited life, something like 30 minutes. You basically get the engine very hot, without driving, and then dump it straight out and it takes virtually all of the oil and deposited junk with it. Seem to remember, in the days of old, guys used to mix 50/50 new engine oil with paraffin to do the same jiob.
Synthetic oils are not recommended for most SURFs due to the design of the Auto-box clutch materials.
Suggest a good search through the forums as there have been many posts in this matter.
Fully changing the autobox oil is somewhat of a challenge. There are various methods written out in the forums. You will probably find the one I posted that worked for me.
Colin

Colin,

That you for the information. Please tell me more about the motor flush. Should I remove the drain plug, start the motor, and immediately dump the flush into the oil fill hole?

I wonder why no synthetics in the autobox. Hmmmm... Today I located a place that will perform a complete autobox flush and fill as described in this website. They remove the tranny fluid lines from the radiator and allow the transmission to suck in fresh fluid until the old fluid stops coming out of the line leading to the radiator.


Jeff

[The Mighty WAH]

Colin,

That you for the information. Please tell me more about the motor flush. Should I remove the drain plug, start the motor, and immediately dump the flush into the oil fill hole?

I wonder why no synthetics in the autobox. Hmmmm... Today I located a place that will perform a complete autobox flush and fill as described in this website. They remove the tranny fluid lines from the radiator and allow the transmission to suck in fresh fluid until the old fluid stops coming out of the line leading to the radiator.


Jeff

Jeff, engine oil flush.
Warm up engine to operating temp. with existing oil. The High-tickover switch really helps with this.
Stop engine and immediately dump all oil out through the sump plug hole, leave the filter in place.
Fill with the flushing oil and run engine for period specified in instructions.
Stop engine and immediately dump oil as before, allow a good 30 minutes to fully drain.
Fit new filter, ready charged with synthetic oil.
Fill engine and run up to operating temp.
Stop, allow to cool and check/adjust level.


Auto trans. oil recommended is ATF Dextron 2, Dextron 3 is the synthetic. I believe that the synthetic oils have anti-friction materials that affect the friction capability of the clutches.

The auto box is supposed to have some cleanable filters inside it, but I could not get my sump off due to the No. 2 exhaust section running directly under the box sump. If your's is similar do not release the sump, it's a real 'bugger' to get it cleaned and re-fitted in the half-removed condition because it uses metal-to-metal sealing with sealant mastic between the faces.

Colin

[Jeff]

engine flush

Jeff, engine oil flush.
Warm up engine to operating temp. with existing oil. The High-tickover switch really helps with this.
Stop engine and immediately dump all oil out through the sump plug hole, leave the filter in place.
Fill with the flushing oil and run engine for period specified in instructions.
Stop engine and immediately dump oil as before, allow a good 30 minutes to fully drain.
Fit new filter, ready charged with synthetic oil.
Fill engine and run up to operating temp.
Stop, allow to cool and check/adjust level.


Auto trans. oil recommended is ATF Dextron 2, Dextron 3 is the synthetic. I believe that the synthetic oils have anti-friction materials that affect the friction capability of the clutches.

The auto box is supposed to have some cleanable filters inside it, but I could not get my sump off due to the No. 2 exhaust section running directly under the box sump. If your's is similar do not release the sump, it's a real 'bugger' to get it cleaned and re-fitted in the half-removed condition because it uses metal-to-metal sealing with sealant mastic between the faces.

Colin

Colin,

Thank you for the helpful information. I am presently gathering both products and information so that when I begin my project things will go smoothly.


Jeff

[TonyN]

[IMG]


To what extent, beyond a drain plug removal and complete drip-draining, should these components be emptied of the factory oils prior to filling with synthetic lubricants? I once upgraded to a synthetic differential fluid in a one-ton two-wheel-drive truck; I recall draining the gear fluid via the drain plug, removing the differential cover, and with turkey baster and catch pan in hand completely flushing all remaining factory differential oil from the differential. I cannot, however, remember what fluid I was using to clean out the gear housing.

Jeff
Okinawa, Japan

Its not worth the effort, the Toy diff case is welded, you have no diff cover. The only way to get in is to pull the drive and prop shafts and then take the diff unit out complete.
I'd just put some decent semi-syth in and forget about it.

[Jeff]

Its not worth the effort, the Toy diff case is welded, you have no diff cover. The only way to get in is to pull the drive and prop shafts and then take the diff unit out complete.
I'd just put some decent semi-syth in and forget about it.

I completely agree with that advice. As the synthetic fluids I am considering buying (Amsoil products) are said to be compatible with mineral-based lubricants I am planning to do a drip-drain and refill with the differentials and transfer case; the transmission and crankcase will get a bit more attention but nothing too serious or expensive.

My Surf has 113K kms on the odometer - a mere 10K of which have been added in the past eleven months. At this rate the Toyota would have 220K kms (137,700 mi) in its twentieth year on the road. Assuming that 1) I remain in Japan for another ten years, and 2) the car is still on the road at that time - on a tiny island where the salt-tainted air is inescapable - it may be time for a new Surf by then. (There are, however, many fine older Land Cruisers and LC Prados on the road here.)

By that time I will be able to get a decent deal on a 1KD-FTV-powered SSR-G Surf. ("If it ain't broken don't fix it.")


Jeff
Okinawa, Japan

[Chillitt]

on a reciept for my trans fluid , it said ask about hiring a transmission flusher.. wynns make a thing called a transerve 2 plus which sounds better than getting buckets filthy and oil alles uber das place...