Urgent help request - engine sensor cable yanked out!

[gargravarr]

Hi all,

We've managed to replace the fuel pump, but when we pulled the old pump out, we managed to yank a cable out of one of the sensors, namely a small plug right behind the injector pump on the passenger side of the engine bay. It's a black plug with two wires - red and white.

Questions:
1) which way around do the wires go (with the clip at the top of the plug)?
2) anyone know what this connector is for?
3) if so, could it explain the engine running REALLY rough and not actually recognising it's running? We tried starting it up and the glow plug timer beeper didn't switch off when it fired.

Cheers,
Gargravarr

[Albannach]

I can't help with your wiring issue. But I can tell you that the beeper you hear is nothing to do with the glow plugs.

[gargravarr]

I can't help with your wiring issue. But I can tell you that the beeper you hear is nothing to do with the glow plugs.

I think ours has been slightly modified - there's no glow plug indicator light, instead we switch the ignition on and wait for a beeper to sound to indicate the plugs have warmed up. I think it's on a timer.

Cheers for the reply.

[Albannach]

I think ours has been slightly modified - there's no glow plug indicator light, instead we switch the ignition on and wait for a beeper to sound to indicate the plugs have warmed up. I think it's on a timer.

Cheers for the reply.

We're digressing from your problem, I apologise for that. The noise you hear is the 'Ignition on' warning, it just happens to have roughly the same length of timer as the main glow plug relay.

[TonyN]

Its the crankshaft position sensor, the red wire is on the right with the clip upwards.

Andy is right, all EFI 2.4's beep at you if you leave the ingition on for more than 10ish seconds without starting motor.

You'll probably find its gets it motor running signal from the cranksensor sensor.

[gargravarr]

Its the crankshaft position sensor, the red wire is on the right with the clip upwards.

Andy is right, all EFI 2.4's beep at you if you leave the ingition on for more than 10ish seconds without starting motor.

You'll probably find its gets it motor running signal from the cranksensor sensor.

Thanks for the reply, Tony, I did a lot of digging and came to the conclusion it's the crank sensor, but then I couldn't get a clear image of the connector in place or the wiring diagram, so cheers!

We're having more problems - it's not firing correctly, or as my neighbour puts it, 'knocking' pretty heavily. Incidentally, I wired the sensor up both correctly and backwards and it made no difference - as the connector is soaked in diesel and might not have a solid connection, could this contribute? There are a few other suspects, but this one sounds possible.

[TonyN]

Knocking after doing the fuel pump is either the pump match-marks not lined up properly, or the timing belt a tooth out.

The knocking is either timing to advanced, or piston-valve interference.

[gargravarr]

Knocking after doing the fuel pump is either the pump match-marks not lined up properly, or the timing belt a tooth out.

The knocking is either timing to advanced, or piston-valve interference.

Hmm, that's what we thought, but the belt and pump are both timed properly - we noticed it was a tooth out, but when we reset the belt it was still knocking badly. Could there be any other causes?

[TonyN]

Hmm, that's what we thought, but the belt and pump are both timed properly - we noticed it was a tooth out, but when we reset the belt it was still knocking badly. Could there be any other causes?

If everything looks ok, I'd want to check you've not bent a valve when you ran it with belt a tooth out. Check the valve clearances for a stuck open valve.

They normally survive just one tooth out, I've done it in the past, but only if you spot it straight away on starting and don't rev it to much.

Have you changed the injectors too? Motors sound a lot more noisy when you fit properly squirting injectors instead of dribbly old ones.

I assume the fuel pipes are in the right order? It'll run, but badly with the injection order wrong.

[gargravarr]

If everything looks ok, I'd want to check you've not bent a valve when you ran it with belt a tooth out. Check the valve clearances for a stuck open valve.

They normally survive just one tooth out, I've done it in the past, but only if you spot it straight away on starting and don't rev it to much.

Have you changed the injectors too? Motors sound a lot more noisy when you fit properly squirting injectors instead of dribbly old ones.

I assume the fuel pipes are in the right order? It'll run, but badly with the injection order wrong.

When it first started up with the new pump it was knocking badly and running very, very rough. After a few attempts it settled slightly, but was still knocking. We corrected the belt but it made no difference. We didn't rev the engine much, I used the Idle Up to see if it would settle but only for a few seconds.

We haven't changed the injectors. The fuel pipes did cross my mind, and I'm starting to believe it's a strong possibility - it sounds like it's 'skipping' a cylinder (would that be termed a misfire?) which could be a result of diesel being injected into the wrong cylinder at the right time, right?

I'll dive back into the engine tomorrow, I'll let you know what I find out

Cheers for your advice!