Bloody Rear Window AGAIN

[Banzai]

Aaaarrrgh - it's done it again.

The window's packed up. Please - no diagnostics - it's the circuit board behind the nearside rear light cluster!

Instead, I want to put a new switch on, with two lives (one for up, one for down) and a neg straight from the batt to the motor, bypassing the safety microswitch etc etc...

Can this be done? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the motor itself (showing contacts etc)?

Cheers,

Scott

[andy]

Hope this helps .

[Banzai]

Cheers Andy,

So the motor only has TWO WIRES powering it?

+ to one terminal - window down...
- to one terminal - window up...

I guess they must reverse the motor if I swapped the polarity.

Anyone tried this?

Scott

[Hilux]

Rear Window

l put power striaght to the motor and it brought the rear window down so l touched the other wire on the motor and it went up again.
So l supose you could connect up directly to the motor but you would not have to leave the motor running to long when the window is fully up or down. You could use the original dash switch wires l would think, just disconnect them from the relay and go straight to the motor. Lt us know how you get on and if it cause's any problems, ie: your "KEY" switch might not work then.

[Banzai]

Any idea how many amps it needs? I'd hate to put too small a cable in and set fire to the bloody rear end!

Scott

[bensonsnuts]

My relays packed in on hols in Scotland . First of all to shut the window I hotwired it to jumpleads . When I got home I put some scotch connectors to the wires on the motor to lengthen the wires ,then I refastened them with bullet connectors .As it still went down no problem reversing the connection simply fools the switch into thinking down is up etc.
I drove around like this for a couple of monhs until I found someone who replaced the relays in that circuit box.
Don,t cut the power to the box as it works more than just your rear window.

Geoff

[TonyN]

Any idea how many amps it needs? I'd hate to put too small a cable in and set fire to the bloody rear end!

Scott

Just get some that looks the same as whats on there, dosn't look more than 1 - 1.5mmSQ

As has been said, leave the box alone, it tells the wiper that the window is up/down, doors shut,etc , just wire the motor up independantly to your switch. but you'll have to deside when its all the way up or down and not to strain the motor.

[Banzai]

Don,t cut the power to the box as it works more than just your rear window. Geoff

Hehe - too late. Already killed the bitch. The wiper was damaged when I bought it, and I don't give a toss about the 'door closed' window safety...

I'm more mechanical than electrical, but something says I'm gonna be a quick learner over next weekend...

[TonyN]

Hehe - too late. Already killed the bitch. The wiper was damaged when I bought it, and I don't give a toss about the 'door closed' window safety...

LOL, Top man! Affirmative action, thats what we like to see!

[Banzai]

Hmm, had the rear panel off today and the motor states:

12V 90

'90' wouldn't be the amps would it?

Surely not - replacement battery leads are only rated at 70A if Maplins are accurate....

Does anyone have the means to measure how many amps the motor draws?

[Koi]

Hmm, had the rear panel off today and the motor states:

12V 90

'90' wouldn't be the amps would it?

Surely not - replacement battery leads are only rated at 70A if Maplins are accurate....

Does anyone have the means to measure how many amps the motor draws?

The fuse should give you a clue, what is the fuse rating.

Maybe 12v 90 watt motor = 7.5amps

Watts/Volts = Amps
Volts x Amps= Watts
Watts/Amps= Volts

[Simon.O.]

Had a bit of a play with my back window, I was fed up with having to use the key.
I put a 2-way rocker switch above the reg plate and this is connected to the wires from the "key switch" they are earth only wires.

The next bit was a bit more ambitious, I took my earth feed from the front door lock so that the switch above the reg plate is only active when the car is unlocked.

Next trick will be to strip the whole back door apart and service the motor and mechanism to speed the bloody thing up.

[nverlose1]

explain how to wire

can someone explain how to wire window woithout box. my box broke and i threw it away

[virgo]

Hi Newbie here...

I'm having problems with getting the rear window to go down (going up is no problem).

My initial idea is to find wires that lead from centre consol switch to rear relay box and cut them from relay box.... then find wires from relay box to motor and cut them too. Then connect wires from the centre consol switch direct to the rear motor wires to avoid relying on the relays.

Then again...a few people have mentioned that the wires shouldn't be disconnected from the relay box because it might interfere with how the rear wiper works.

SO... would it make any sense for me to connect switch and motor wires together whilst still keeping them connected to the relay box (cut into switch and motor wires to and from box)

OR... to remove relays from circuit board and solder wires in to replace them...???

Any ideas guys....? It's driving me nuts! Whatever I end up doing i will definately take pictures and post them (if it works).

btw I've wired electric windows in my previous car direct from switch to motor fine but the only thing that makes me reluctant is the factor of the rear wiper and how wiring directly will affect it's function (safety when window open etc)....

[sparkyaj]

OK, one thing to note.......

The cables to the door switch and rear window switch internally are only switch cables. These only need to be wired with small cables as they have no high current)

Let me try and explain with ease.

The motor will take a large start-up current. thus small cables will fry when energised.

To correct the problem a relay is fitted inline.

A large fused supply with large cables are taken from the main battery via fuse to the input on the relay.

The output from the relay then goes to the motor. This alows the motor to start without frying the cables. But you still need to control the switching...........

The relay is switch with a control circuit that is wired as follows.........


Mains feed into relay........connect small fused connection from mains input and take to a remote switch(key, press button etc)

The return from the switch is then sent back to the relay which energises a coil. (like when you press a door bell and you get a **ding**)

The coil the switches, alows the main feed to pass through the relay and energises the motor.

When the switch contact is broke, the coil supply is then de-energised and the motor stops. (door bell situe; **dong** coil has returned and broken contact)



As for direct wiring, your motor needs a perminant ground.

Now your left with your switched live supply.

Easy........


All START switches should be wired in parellel. All STOP switches should be wired in series........

Job done.........