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  • Imobiliser problem becoming a pain

    This is vague, but here goes.
    I have the immobliser touch "ring" and red led - flashing when set, constant when unset. Fob is like a AAA battery but slightly conical. It has 2 contacts, which touch 2 more contacts on the dash.

    Thing is, over the last few weeks its got harder and harder to get the red light to go on. Tried cleaning it, no joy, I now have to press like a ba$tard and turn at the same time and eventually it goes static red. I'm assuming some part has worn out/ away.

    Can anyone with experience shed any light on this before I start pullling wires out of the dash to try and bypass it.

    A search hasn't found my problem, however looking at the other threads, most aftermarket imobilisers only break one wire! If thats the case, might disconnect it and fit a kill switch elsewhere, then I can't lose the fob!
    "B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
    www.johnthebuilder.info

  • #2
    Bumpety Bump. Anyone?
    "B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
    www.johnthebuilder.info

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    • #3
      It sounds a bit like the Cobra immobiliser, I had a similar type fitted to mine but junked it in favour of a better system.
      If it's the same and you do end up ditching it, it's unlikley it only cuts into one wire, mine cut into both ignition and engine start among others, follow the wires back from the disc you press the fob onto, you should find a control box (that will probably be located near your steering column so it's close to the ignition wires etc) with a whole host of black wires coming out of it (all black so the thugs don't know which ones to get rid of), don't be fazed by them all it's really logical when you follow them. I had two black wires for engine start, two for the ignition etc etc, the installers were probably lazy and left the existing surf wiring between each cut so it will be easy to see what needs to be reconnected (I just used the existing cuts when installing the new system and hid them a lot better), it will probably look like a right can of worms when you get to see the box but just be methodical and you'll find it's really simple, it will just be a bit time consuming is all.
      Neal

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      • #4
        Not Cobra, but this one
        http://www.dragoncaraudio.co.uk/car-immobilisers.html
        Any other advice before the rip out?
        Quite handy with electrics, so not too fussed, but really want to know if there are any fixes???
        "B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
        www.johnthebuilder.info

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        • #5
          Not sure on quick fixes, we used to run similar ones in our lorries at work, if they failed, they would simply replace them straight away so we never had the chance to work on any ways to repair them.
          Neal

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          • #6
            why not just contact the supplier?
            SWIFT AND BOLD

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            • #7
              I'm guessing the bit you poke in to the dash the cone is passive (no battery).

              At a guess the center pin is not making a good contact, perhaps worn down. If it were possible to put a tiny tiny dab of solder on the center pin (to widen it better contact) and carefully offer it up to test if that improves things
              __________________

              Back in the day Baby

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              • #8
                Originally posted by charvell View Post
                why not just contact the supplier?
                Don't know the supplier, no info with the truck when i bought it.
                Suppose I could contact the manufacturer, but at £35 on ebay for a new one, I might just replace the whole lot as I need a second fob anyway! Hopefully it will be as easy as unplu, plug in new one, program fobs and off we go!

                probably!
                "B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
                www.johnthebuilder.info

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Vultch View Post
                  I'm guessing the bit you poke in to the dash the cone is passive (no battery).

                  At a guess the center pin is not making a good contact, perhaps worn down. If it were possible to put a tiny tiny dab of solder on the center pin (to widen it better contact) and carefully offer it up to test if that improves things
                  Good suggestion, That would make sense as it still works if you push it really hard.
                  Not got any solder though or an iron!
                  "B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
                  www.johnthebuilder.info

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                  • #10
                    Maybe compress the tip of the centre contact to flatten it out (long nosed pliers) so that the flat wider bit will make better contact.

                    Does the centre pin in the dongle fit inside the centre pin on the dash mounted bit
                    __________________

                    Back in the day Baby

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                    • #11
                      The dongle middle bit touches - almost point to point - with a sprung middle bit on the dash mounted part. Thing is you can feel the spring retracting, so one would assume a good contact with the two parts. Obviously something's amiss, just seems an inordinate amount of pushing required to make the contact though!
                      "B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
                      www.johnthebuilder.info

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Or it could be the dash mounted bit, as the spring retracts it creates a bad electrical contact (maybe dirt over the years)... a touch of WD40 or contact cleaner, you may have to remove it to clean it properly at a guess
                        __________________

                        Back in the day Baby

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Vultch View Post
                          Or it could be the dash mounted bit, as the spring retracts it creates a bad electrical contact (maybe dirt over the years)... a touch of WD40 or contact cleaner, you may have to remove it to clean it properly at a guess
                          This never worked for ours but since yours is a different model it's got to be worth a shot, will be a nice cheap fix if it works.
                          Neal

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                          • #14
                            Sort of broke down today......

                            It finally gave up the ghost today, stranded at my Ma & Pa's after sunday lunch.
                            So Mrs W, got to drive my dads 3.4l V6 Jeep back. Unfortunately I'm not the policy holder so son't get the 3rd part any vehicle part.
                            Will be going back and ripping the fecker out in the morning.
                            Might get another fitted later though. Any recco's on good systems?
                            "B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
                            www.johnthebuilder.info

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                            • #15
                              I took mine out of my 2nd gen when it started playing up. Never replaced it as I'm in a fairly benign part of the world regarding car theft. What's Kiddy like?
                              Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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