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  • glow plug issues and others!

    I broke the plastic spacer as i was bolting up my glow plug rail live, and tried bolting the live on without it. When I switched the ignition on the glow plug light came on, and there was a fairly loud clicking coming from around the air filter, then it stopped and the glow plug light hasn't come on since. I had time to check the fuse under the bonnet by the battery and that hasn't blown, but something has, so any ideas where to start looking?
    Also, there is an earth strap that goes on to a stud on the underside of the inlet manifold. where this earth leaves the loom to join the manifold there is also a live strap that leaves the loom at the same place and is about the same length and size, any ideas where its for?!

    Cheers!

    oh, its a 2.4 2L-T LN130, just in case thats any help!
    Last edited by mondo; 28 January 2010, 22:56.

  • #2
    Oh dear..the bit of plastic is rather important... lol

    Did you check the fuse with a voltmeter, it could have broken where you can't see it lower down.

    THe glow relay is by the fliter, next to the starter relay, check that.

    There's is a heater under the manifold, its the live for that. Works the same way as the glow plug power, -ve first, then insulator, then +ive.

    All you can really do is check power at the fuse, and then at the bus bar, and see if you have 12v. If not then you need to work your way back to find the break.
    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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    • #3
      sorry to bring up an old thread, but i'm a bit stuck again. I found the ignition fuse in the foot well of the truck had blown, and when replaced everything seemed to work again, the glow plug light came back on and everything seemed to be making the right clicks....However, when i put a tester on the plugs there is no power going to them......
      Any ideas?
      Thanks alot!

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      • #4
        As Tony said above check and replace the glow plug fuse - it's almost certainly blown from when you shorted it out by losing the plastic insulator (you have replaced that haven't you ?)

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        • #5
          By "replaced" I mean I have put a rubber washer in there but that will do the trick won't it?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by mondo View Post
            By "replaced" I mean I have put a rubber washer in there but that will do the trick won't it?
            Not if the washer is flat and can still allow the wiring or glow plug rail to contact the stud. Use the correct insulators.

            Nev

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            • #7
              Contact Lord Lucan or Stormforce and get yourself the proper replacements.
              I saved this pic off the forum a while back. You need 2 insulators.

              Rob.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Sorry for the late reply, I am struggling with my heater plugs after a rebuild.
                When they are connected up they seem to be shorting out even though they are insulated from the inlet manifold.One thing that seems strange is that there seems to be a continuity between the positive end of the heater plug and the inlet manifold when I do a continuity test.When I take a plug out and connect to a battery it works fine.
                Am I doing something obviously wrong? Ive checked the glow plug fuse and it is intact, the Alt fuse however has blown, could this in anyway be connected.
                I get about 10volts at the connection on to the glow plug rail, but when it is connected it appears to be shorting out. The glow rail is definitely not shorting out on the stud, and neither is the connection wire.
                Any more ideas?

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                • #9
                  Can you post a pic of the glow plug rail to inlet manifold connection ?

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                  • #10
                    Yes, i'd be happy to, I will take a photo of it in the morning and will put it up tomorrow night, but in the mean time have you got any possible suggestions?

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                    • #11
                      Set a voltmeter to~20vDC and put the red cable on the top of a glow plug bolt and the black on the battery earth. Get someone to switch the ign to on, but not start it. If you get a voltage there for a good 7 seconds or so then stop worrying - the plugs are getting power.

                      I can't see how a rubber washer could insulate the glowplug bar from the stud on the intake manifold, hence why I asked to see a pic.

                      Rob.

                      The only other thing I can think of is that one of your glowplugs has developed a short circuit. You can check their individual resistance with a volt meter to see if one of them is shorted out / different to the others.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mondo View Post
                        When they are connected up they seem to be shorting out even though they are insulated from the inlet manifold.One thing that seems strange is that there seems to be a continuity between the positive end of the heater plug and the inlet manifold when I do a continuity test.When I take a plug out and connect to a battery it works fine.
                        You will get continuity by testing this way unless a plug is no good. To test a glow plug properly you should remove them and test individually for resistance. Resistance should be less than 1 Ohm. High resistance or open circuit means they are no good. If you get around 10.5V at the glow plugs with ignition on then the circuit will be ok and you do not have a short.

                        The connection under manifold that you mentioned is probably the glow plug resistor. There are two wires for it. Check out the second pic in this link.

                        http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=14158

                        Nev



                        Nev

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