Rear window motor test

[JimL]

Instead of hijacking someone elses rear window thread I've started this one.

I disconnected the connector to the window motor so as to test it with a 12v feed direct from the battery positive terminal. Just as I got set up it was dark and I decided to wait till daylight and go again at it.

Theres two wires going to the motor from the connector. A few questions...

1. Does the motor get pwr thru one and a ground thru the other, and then the same but in the opposite direction for the other window operation?

2. Or is each wire a 12v supply coming from the relay, one operating the motor in one direction, the other in the opposite, the motor then getting its ground from being bolted to the chassis?

3. Is it possible to take out everything bar the runners and service the lot, even the motor and then lube the runners with everything out of the way?

????

[TonyN]

Instead of hijacking someone elses rear window thread I've started this one.

I disconnected the connector to the window motor so as to test it with a 12v feed direct from the battery positive terminal. Just as I got set up it was dark and I decided to wait till daylight and go again at it.

Theres two wires going to the motor from the connector. A few questions...

1. Does the motor get pwr thru one and a ground thru the other, and then the same but in the opposite direction for the other window operation?


yes


2. Or is each wire a 12v supply coming from the relay, one operating the motor in one direction, the other in the opposite, the motor then getting its ground from being bolted to the chassis?

3. Is it possible to take out everything bar the runners and service the lot, even the motor and then lube the runners with everything out of the way?

yes but watch the springs on the regulaor, if you take the motor off it will ping closed, munching fingers

????

[JimL]

hmmm the motor couldnt get a ground from being bolted to the chassis could it, not on a tailgate anyway, with hangs on presumably greasy hinges, not great for conducting amps from a measly 12v battery, this auto pwr stuff is a pain but I'd love to master it,

Thanks Tony for the quick response, I had stuck 12v wire from the battery into the connector and jiggled it around both terminals and nothing happened and was starting to think this was another simple test which turns into the building of Rome with me blowing the motor, then it was dark and I got afraid so I went in to my wife and she read me a story.

[rich]

hmmm the motor couldnt get a ground from being bolted to the chassis could it, not on a tailgate anyway, with hangs on presumably greasy hinges, not great for conducting amps from a measly 12v battery, this auto pwr stuff is a pain but I'd love to master it.

Like Tony said the grounds and positives are reversed depending on the direction required. e.g.

Motor has terminals A1 and A2 (Theoretically only). When no direction is required both terminals are connected to Ground so when you do the test make sure it is disconnected from the loom!.

For motor to drive window up A1 is connected to Ground (via control relay) and A2 is connected to 12V.

For motor to drive window down A2 is connected to 12V and A2 is connected to Ground.

Techy bit: - What is happening in the motor is the current and resultant magnetic field drives the rotor (Centre spinning bit). The Polarity of the connection determines the direction of the rotor spin

Rich.

[TonyN]

hmmm the motor couldnt get a ground from being bolted to the chassis could it, not on a tailgate anyway, with hangs on presumably greasy hinges, not great for conducting amps from a measly 12v battery, this auto pwr stuff is a pain but I'd love to master it,

Thanks Tony for the quick response, I had stuck 12v wire from the battery into the connector and jiggled it around both terminals and nothing happened and was starting to think this was another simple test which turns into the building of Rome with me blowing the motor, then it was dark and I got afraid so I went in to my wife and she read me a story.

hehe, its easy to take apart, only 4 bolts hold the regulator in, all the plugs are different shapes, so can't go wrong. then the 2 latch cables, and the lock knob.

raise the window (with the tailgate down, click the latches shut and supporting it as you lift the window) till the arms are level, then undo everything, undo all the plugs, them remove the loom to get it outta the way, go easy on the clips, they brake easy, just squeese the two arms together to pop them off. and slide the regulator off the window and wiggle it out.

If the motor is stuffed, you'll have to take it off the regulator, then manually move the arms till you can get it out. but the spring is strong, unclip it if its easier.

Our regulator wore the teeth off, where the motor drives it, and needed replaceing, (as I could'nt face welding all the teeth back, and Rusty has tried it and it wasn't that great apparently) also check the motor teeth for wear, I put some washers under the motor, to get the gears to run on as fresh bit.

Also check the play in the motor gear shaft, ours was loose, this was what wore the regulator away as the gears wern't meshing properly. I took it apart and made a sleeve for the shaft, as it just runs in the motor plastic. but motors are cheap from other Toys as we all know.

Right! thats enough tech! where's the chat forum........................

[rich]

If you want to kow more about auto electrics Jim, check this out!

http://autorepair.about.com/gi/dynam...com%2Fbasae%2F

[JimL]

thanks lads, now off to that link...

[andy]

Jim


Hope this helps mate .

[JimL]

Test done, now for the results

Ok the test is done. I used 2 direct feeds from the battery terminals and hooked them up directly to the motor bypassing all switches and relays.

I had not been able to get the window down or up lately without me pulling it and helping it along.

The window came down and went up again without being cleaned or lubed and didnt need a helping hand. There was still a noticable reluctance to lower which surprised me as I would have thought gravity would help the 'down' more than 'up'.
The motor didnt sound like it was missing teeth or jumping.

So the motor aint perfect but was more vigorated with direct pwr from the battery so the relays are involved in this conspiracy.

[TonyN]

So the motor aint perfect but was more vigorated with direct pwr from the battery so the relays are involved in this conspiracy.

curtainly sounds like it.

[rich]

You might be wanting this then!

http://www.afm15.dial.pipex.com/surf..._relay_fix.pdf

Ok the test is done. I used 2 direct feeds from the battery terminals and hooked them up directly to the motor bypassing all switches and relays.

I had not been able to get the window down or up lately without me pulling it and helping it along.

The window came down and went up again without being cleaned or lubed and didnt need a helping hand. There was still a noticable reluctance to lower which surprised me as I would have thought gravity would help the 'down' more than 'up'.
The motor didnt sound like it was missing teeth or jumping.

So the motor aint perfect but was more vigorated with direct pwr from the battery so the relays are involved in this conspiracy.

[kerrs]

Where did you get your regulator / motors from ?

I have welded the teeth and fitted a roler bearing in the motor, this lasted 6 months but trying to get the window down this week when it was frozen has stripped it all.

Thanks & regards

Kerr