Where is the relaybox for rear window

[kcsl]

Can anybody tell me where the relay box for the rear electric window is.

I know it's behind the rear plastic trim on the passengers side as I can hear it, but I don't want to pull off all the trim unless I have to as I have things fitted in the boot and are a pain to get out.

I'm guessing it's around the utility compartment but I can't seem to locate it.

Any help?????

Thanks,
Joe

[pops]

its there ok between that compartment and the tail lights passenger side
good hunting

[kcsl]

Thanks for that - didnt go out of their way to make it simple to get at did they.

Right, now to see if I can fix it.

Cars...

Thanks again.

[pops]

Thanks for that - didnt go out of their way to make it simple to get at did they.

Right, now to see if I can fix it.

Cars...

Thanks again.

use the search facility on here and you will find a bucket load of advise on what to look for and how to fix

[pops]

here it is try this

http://www.yotasurf.co.uk/forums/att...chmentid=11150

hope that helps did me

[pops]

found this too

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-HILUX-S...QQcmdZViewItem

[kcsl]

I'm getting ready to scap the darn thing.

I just don't get it.

I crawled into the boot, and applied 12v direct to the red and green wires just to prove that the window motor, cables are ok. Window goes up and down fine. (did this with the relay box removed and directly into the connector)

I can hear the relays clicking when I turn the key on the back door, so was convinced that it was a relay fault.
Removed relay box, switched over relays as described (thank god I'm into electronics as this isn't simple without the correct tools), placed unit back and hey-presto window works.

Went to truck today, same fault again. Window won't always operate, tho' I can hear the relays clicking.

So, I can only think of a couple of things left to llok at:
There is a ****py earth connection someplace.
Since the window motor is connected directly to the relay box, it must be at the relay box. There is a cable from the loom at this point that is bolted to the chassis for an earth. I filled and cleaned these before fixing back the relay box so I don't think it's a fault here.

There could be a fault with the main live connection. Perhaps a bad connection down at the front fuse box. I'll put a volt meter on the relay box end and monitor.

Failing all those, there are some control signals entering the box telling it that for some reason, it shouldn't work - but then why would the relays operate.

Failing all this, I'm just going to fit a manual switch that connects directly to the motor - I'm getting mighty hacked off with all these electronics on this truck.

I'll kep you posted.


I

[BUSHWHACKER]

It may have somthing to do with rear wiper inhibitor switch,
i.e. the rear window will not operate unless the rear wiper is in it's rest position in the holder.

[kcsl]

Hummmm

I suppose it could be, but the fault is very intermittant, and I still don't understand why the relays click if one of the sensor inputs is telling the relay box not to operate.

Looking at the limited info I do have on the relay box, there are six relays inside.
Two of them are used to make a change-over switch to control the window direction. This means that at least one more relay is needed to control the main power to these other two relays.

If the problem keeps up I'll pull the relay box and replace all the little gits.
In the mean time, I scotch-locked on a a couple of cables that will allow me to manually control the window motor.
I'm not getting stuck in ASDA's car park with the window down in the pooring rain again.

[crazybitch]

Hummmm

I suppose it could be, but the fault is very intermittant, and I still don't understand why the relays click if one of the sensor inputs is telling the relay box not to operate.

Looking at the limited info I do have on the relay box, there are six relays inside.
Two of them are used to make a change-over switch to control the window direction. This means that at least one more relay is needed to control the main power to these other two relays.

If the problem keeps up I'll pull the relay box and replace all the little gits.
In the mean time, I scotch-locked on a a couple of cables that will allow me to manually control the window motor.
I'm not getting stuck in ASDA's car park with the window down in the pooring rain again.

Almost certainly going to be a break in one of the wires going from the tailgate to the back of the truck!! Years of flexing up and down causes one or more of them to break/fracture and gives the intermittent fault you are looking for!!

[kcsl]

Well, something's wrong that's for sure.

Does anybody have a circuit diagram for the relay box ?

I do have some high level diagram, but I could really do with a detailed one.

[andy]

Is this any good to you.

[kcsl]

Hum... that's very interesting.

I need to study that and pull the relay box again.

However, a brief look at the diagram, only two relays control the window motor - I'd assumed three.
So, if I can hear clicking whenever I turn the rear door key, then the window should be moving.
So, it can only be the wires from the relay box to the motor, and I've tested them and they 'seem', famous last words, ok.
OR
There are intermittant faults on one or both relays. Either there is a machanical fault and a relay is clicking but isn't moving properly, or one or more sets of contacts are damaged.

I'm going to order replacement relays and replace them (and fit small caps across the contacts to stop the sparking that probably caused the contact damage in the first place.

After looking at the diagram, I feel happier that I'm getting closer to resolving this.

Which book did you get the scan from? - I wouldn't mind getting a copy of that myself.

Thanks for the info.

Joe

[jjon]

Rear window relays

[QUOTE=kcsl]OR
There are intermittant faults on one or both relays. Either there is a machanical fault and a relay is clicking but isn't moving properly, or one or more sets of contacts are damaged.

Hi I had the same problem and symptoms as you about a year ago. Pulled everything out and tested everything. Turned out to be the contacts in the relays badly burned. replaced them and no problems since.
Got the relays from Maplins JM67X 12V/12A Miniature relay. I did think about spark suppression caps but never got round to fitting any. Probably a good idea, what value would you suggest.
HTH

[kcsl]

Hi,

0.1uf disc ceramics should do the job, and their small and flat so should be room underneath the PCB for them.

Off to Maplins we go....

Thanks,
Joe