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Hi, just fitted additional fog lamps to my Surf, below is quite detailed info to help anyone thinking of doing the same.
There will be a wiring diagram attatched later, note that the wire connecting the original rear fog light power supply to the new illuminated switches on the terminals marked "SUPP" can be changed for a wire connecting to the high beam only power supply, and change the fog lamps to driving lamps
Have a read.
Auxiliary Fog lamps.
Vehicle: Adaptable- mine 2.4Td Surf LN130
Object; Fit additional rear guard, and two pairs of front fog lights.
Required: Lights to be switched.
Rear lights available when side lamp and fog lamp switch on.
Front lights available when side, fog, independent switch with engine running (to avoid flat battery)
Items: One extra rear fog lamp, two pairs 55w front fog lamps, 5m 8amp wire, 5m 25amp wire, 3x 30 amp relays (4 pin), box 3.5mm female insulated spade terminals (blue) , few ring tags (blue) , few scotchlock connectors (wire taps), simple volt meter, screw drivers, wire cutters and crimp tool for the connectors .Few cable ties. White masking tape and perm marker, pvc tape., maybe a drill and rubber hole grommet.,2 illuminated switches.
Packet of 5amp blade fuses, packet of 15amp fuses, 2 pack blade fuse holders.
Lucas or Halfords or Partco like places are good.
Time: Depends on experience, I took 2 hours with coffee drinking!
Disconnect neg side of battery, connecting only when testing or finished.
First job is to affix the additional rear fog guard, I have two because whether in UK or Europe I always have a rear fog on the off side.
Both of mine are on the rear tow bar frame, on the far left and right- workable but do get bashed sometimes when off road. I reduced impacts by using square ones, screwing with self tapers through the back the back of the lamp so they fit flat on the towbar frame.
With an existing lamp it was easy to run a 8amp wire between the bulb positives (centre), using the spade terminals- the original lamp ends up with two wires in the middle in the same terminal.. The earth sides of the bulbs were taken in to ring tags and fixed to the towbar chassis. All wiring is kept ontop of the towbar frame and held with ties.
Simple test, side lamps on, fog lamps on and you should have two rear fog lamps on
Bolt on the front 2 pairs of fog lamps (use one if you want) , mine are above bumper height, affixed to a square lamp bar behind my bush bars. Up to you- but must be legal distance from vehicle sides and other lights. Check instructions from light pack.
Connect short wires from all of the bulb negatives with spade and ring tags to the metal work that supports the lamps. I used the mounting bolts.
Join the centre two lamp positives together 25amp wire (same style as for rear), run this wire behind the grill and to the drivers side fuse box under the bonnet- don’t connect come back to this later. Do the same with the other set of lamps. Masking tape on the loose ends- write front flamps pos on them.
Don’t forget to have battery connected only when testing or finished.
Next drop the lower right panel from the dashboard, few x headed screws and a bolt near the door.
Gently prise out the existing fog lamp switch, leave the wires on it! With a test lamp or better still a meter. find the wire that is only live when the existing fog lamps are on. Follow this wire down carefully towards the area above the foot pedals, not to far but just a bit away from the switch.. Mark this with masking tape and pen- rear fog supply.
For me at this time it was easier for me to lower the carpet from behind the pedals checking the area both sides of the foot well for anything in the way and drilled a 12mm hole from the drivers foot well into the engine compartment and fitted a grommet with a hole in it. Stay away from everything like pipes, wires, hot stuff etc.- I run a lot of stuff through here as its easy to connect cab to engine bay.
I now used a template and drilled out holes in the dash next to the existing fog lamp switch for two more square switches- I used one of those mounting plates drawing through the hole. checked for clearance and pushed the drill through a few times- squaring up the holes by gently using a sharp wood chisel in the plastic facia.
Scotchlock a wire from behind the existing fog lamp wire that you marked earlier that is only live when the fog lamps are on. Run this out of the new square switch hole you just ( allow 100mm slack or 4 inch) made and into a spade terminal- run a short wire out of this spade and into another one., now we have one feed wire with 2 spades on it
Connect both these (one if only one set of lamps!) to the new illuminated switch(S) to the terminal marked SUPP using spade connectors.
Same style of 1 wire with 2 spades on it, connect the illuminated switch terminals marked GRN to ground (to a good earth)- use a scotchlock to a good existing one if you want.
Run a wire from each (don’t join these) switch terminal called ACC through to the engine compartment near to the drivers side fuse box, add a 5amp fuse to each and mark these as 86
Fog lamp relays 2 for 2 pairs of lamps.
Into the engine bay we go, connect the 2new 30amp relays to the following.
Each wire marked 86 goes to separate fog lamp relays- on the pin marked 86
Each wire from the front fog lamps (marked earlier as flamps pos) goes to separate 15amp fuses then to relays on pin marked (look on bottom of relay) 87
2 good earth wires are put in and attached to each relay to pin 85
Connect these two fog lamp relays pins 30 into one 25amp supply wire and connect to 20amp fuse then to the final and third relay on pin 87 This should be the only connection to the third relay.
Under the plastic fuse box cover in the engine bay, find the wire that is ONLY live when the ignition is ON. On my Surf this wire is BLUE with a small red line near the connecter. Scotchlock a 8 amp wire to this, into a 5amp fuse and into the third relay on pin 86. A Good earth to Pin 85 on the third relay.
Finally pin 30 on the third relay goes to a 20amp fuse,25amp wire then connects to a ring tag and finally to the positive side of the battery.
Check all connectors, connect battery.
Engine off, side lamps on main fog light (vehicle original) on.
You should have two rear fogs on.
Try the 2 new switches… shouldn’t make the 2 new front fogs come on.
Start the engine, try the 2 new fog lamp switches- you should have rears on, and independent switched front fog lamps .
Cable clip all wiring away tidy, mount the relays using self tapers up the right way, put all dash together and finish up.
WATTS/VOLTS=AMPS
Ive tried my best, it is my individual way of doing this, and I hope it helps
mark
There will be a wiring diagram attatched later, note that the wire connecting the original rear fog light power supply to the new illuminated switches on the terminals marked "SUPP" can be changed for a wire connecting to the high beam only power supply, and change the fog lamps to driving lamps
Have a read.
Auxiliary Fog lamps.
Vehicle: Adaptable- mine 2.4Td Surf LN130
Object; Fit additional rear guard, and two pairs of front fog lights.
Required: Lights to be switched.
Rear lights available when side lamp and fog lamp switch on.
Front lights available when side, fog, independent switch with engine running (to avoid flat battery)
Items: One extra rear fog lamp, two pairs 55w front fog lamps, 5m 8amp wire, 5m 25amp wire, 3x 30 amp relays (4 pin), box 3.5mm female insulated spade terminals (blue) , few ring tags (blue) , few scotchlock connectors (wire taps), simple volt meter, screw drivers, wire cutters and crimp tool for the connectors .Few cable ties. White masking tape and perm marker, pvc tape., maybe a drill and rubber hole grommet.,2 illuminated switches.
Packet of 5amp blade fuses, packet of 15amp fuses, 2 pack blade fuse holders.
Lucas or Halfords or Partco like places are good.
Time: Depends on experience, I took 2 hours with coffee drinking!
Disconnect neg side of battery, connecting only when testing or finished.
First job is to affix the additional rear fog guard, I have two because whether in UK or Europe I always have a rear fog on the off side.
Both of mine are on the rear tow bar frame, on the far left and right- workable but do get bashed sometimes when off road. I reduced impacts by using square ones, screwing with self tapers through the back the back of the lamp so they fit flat on the towbar frame.
With an existing lamp it was easy to run a 8amp wire between the bulb positives (centre), using the spade terminals- the original lamp ends up with two wires in the middle in the same terminal.. The earth sides of the bulbs were taken in to ring tags and fixed to the towbar chassis. All wiring is kept ontop of the towbar frame and held with ties.
Simple test, side lamps on, fog lamps on and you should have two rear fog lamps on
Bolt on the front 2 pairs of fog lamps (use one if you want) , mine are above bumper height, affixed to a square lamp bar behind my bush bars. Up to you- but must be legal distance from vehicle sides and other lights. Check instructions from light pack.
Connect short wires from all of the bulb negatives with spade and ring tags to the metal work that supports the lamps. I used the mounting bolts.
Join the centre two lamp positives together 25amp wire (same style as for rear), run this wire behind the grill and to the drivers side fuse box under the bonnet- don’t connect come back to this later. Do the same with the other set of lamps. Masking tape on the loose ends- write front flamps pos on them.
Don’t forget to have battery connected only when testing or finished.
Next drop the lower right panel from the dashboard, few x headed screws and a bolt near the door.
Gently prise out the existing fog lamp switch, leave the wires on it! With a test lamp or better still a meter. find the wire that is only live when the existing fog lamps are on. Follow this wire down carefully towards the area above the foot pedals, not to far but just a bit away from the switch.. Mark this with masking tape and pen- rear fog supply.
For me at this time it was easier for me to lower the carpet from behind the pedals checking the area both sides of the foot well for anything in the way and drilled a 12mm hole from the drivers foot well into the engine compartment and fitted a grommet with a hole in it. Stay away from everything like pipes, wires, hot stuff etc.- I run a lot of stuff through here as its easy to connect cab to engine bay.
I now used a template and drilled out holes in the dash next to the existing fog lamp switch for two more square switches- I used one of those mounting plates drawing through the hole. checked for clearance and pushed the drill through a few times- squaring up the holes by gently using a sharp wood chisel in the plastic facia.
Scotchlock a wire from behind the existing fog lamp wire that you marked earlier that is only live when the fog lamps are on. Run this out of the new square switch hole you just ( allow 100mm slack or 4 inch) made and into a spade terminal- run a short wire out of this spade and into another one., now we have one feed wire with 2 spades on it
Connect both these (one if only one set of lamps!) to the new illuminated switch(S) to the terminal marked SUPP using spade connectors.
Same style of 1 wire with 2 spades on it, connect the illuminated switch terminals marked GRN to ground (to a good earth)- use a scotchlock to a good existing one if you want.
Run a wire from each (don’t join these) switch terminal called ACC through to the engine compartment near to the drivers side fuse box, add a 5amp fuse to each and mark these as 86
Fog lamp relays 2 for 2 pairs of lamps.
Into the engine bay we go, connect the 2new 30amp relays to the following.
Each wire marked 86 goes to separate fog lamp relays- on the pin marked 86
Each wire from the front fog lamps (marked earlier as flamps pos) goes to separate 15amp fuses then to relays on pin marked (look on bottom of relay) 87
2 good earth wires are put in and attached to each relay to pin 85
Connect these two fog lamp relays pins 30 into one 25amp supply wire and connect to 20amp fuse then to the final and third relay on pin 87 This should be the only connection to the third relay.
Under the plastic fuse box cover in the engine bay, find the wire that is ONLY live when the ignition is ON. On my Surf this wire is BLUE with a small red line near the connecter. Scotchlock a 8 amp wire to this, into a 5amp fuse and into the third relay on pin 86. A Good earth to Pin 85 on the third relay.
Finally pin 30 on the third relay goes to a 20amp fuse,25amp wire then connects to a ring tag and finally to the positive side of the battery.
Check all connectors, connect battery.
Engine off, side lamps on main fog light (vehicle original) on.
You should have two rear fogs on.
Try the 2 new switches… shouldn’t make the 2 new front fogs come on.
Start the engine, try the 2 new fog lamp switches- you should have rears on, and independent switched front fog lamps .
Cable clip all wiring away tidy, mount the relays using self tapers up the right way, put all dash together and finish up.
WATTS/VOLTS=AMPS
Ive tried my best, it is my individual way of doing this, and I hope it helps
mark
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