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...Bought a kit off eBay a while since and have managed to fit it.
First thing (ironically it's the last thing I'm writing), but sorry about the length of the article. I intended to make this simple, but found that I just had to have all of the blurb in order for it to make sense.
I know a few have expressed interest in this subject so I thought I'd give details of how I fitted it. In the end it was relatively simple and definitely worth the effort.
Components needed: (i) Generic remote central locking (RCL) kit. (ii) Couple of cheap relays (cost me a couple of quid each - not much charge going through them so they don't need to be anything fancy). (iii) Crimps: 8 x insulated spade terminals, 2 x ring terminals for earthing points, (optional 2 x scotch locks). (iv) handful of cable ties. (v) Insulation tape.
Tools used: (i) A voltage testing meter (can buy these for a fiver if you've not got one). (ii) Philips screw drivers. (iii) 10mm spanner for dash board bolt. (iv) soldering iron, flux and solder (or if you prefer, a couple of scotch locks).
Steps taken:(1) Drivers door panel off (to get to central locking wiring).
(2) Remove dash board panels below steering column, and below radio console in order to find 12V continuous live (important that it's a permanent live), and for earthing points.
(3) Remove right hand speaker mounting (white plastic box held in with two or three screws). Need this access inside of rubber conduit for routing wire from inside car to inside door panel.
(4) Remove the drivers door arm rest, uncoupling the wiring at the same time. Note - The small console holding all the switches should be pulled up at the front (it's just clipped in there). Don't try to lever it up at the back like I did and broke it!
(5) Identify 12V permanent live. (I found a suitable one under the radio.)
(6) Identify two earthing points. (There are a few next to the fuse box (right hand side of drivers foot well) and a few under the radio.)
(7) Identify cables inside door panel that lock and unlock the all doors. On my KZN130 they are the Red/Yellow cable (unlock) and Red/White cable (lock). Both of these cables are in the wiring loom that connect into the Electric windows / Central locking switch mounted in the drivers door arm rest.
(8) Connect the Positive (+ve) connection for the RCL Unit (RCLU) to the 12V source identified in step 5.
(9) Connect the Negative (-ve) connection for the RCLU to one of the earthin points identified in step 6.
(10) If your kit is like mine then it'll have loads of wires. You'll only need a few of them. Typically the kit will have wires split into four groups (one for each door). The wires that you need are for ONE of the BACK doors. This should just be a single pair. You will also most likely have four door lock solonoids (no idea how to spell that - it's a posh name for an electro-magnet). Plug in one of the solonoids and test the lock / unlock buttons on one of the remotes. This will make the end of the solonoid pop up and down. You wont need the solonoid, but this is just a handy test to make sure that everything is ok up to press.
(11) If everything is fine up to press then take off the solonoid and using a volt meter identify which wire becomes 12V +ve when you click the lock button. (Make a note of it.) Do the same check on the other wire. It should become 12V +ve when you click the unlock button.
(12) Hard work is over now. Basically, all you need to do is make the connections shown in the attached diagram (two of which you've already done). And find somewhere to hide the RCLU and wiring.
Anciliary notes:
(i) When connecting the relays to the existing central locking wires, you can join into the wires using scotch locks. I personally perfer to tap into the wire and solder a connection. (These are the only two wires that need to go from inside the car into the door.)
(ii) When connecting the relays two of the contacts on each relay will need earth connections. To simplify this I used one wire with four spade terminals on (use one of the unused wires that you've cut off from the RCLU). This meant that you only have one wire to connect to an earthing point as well. Regarding the other two connections on each relay. One wire comes from the RCLU (identified in step 11). And the other wire is one of the wires connected into the existing Central Locking (identified in step 7).
(iii) When running the wire inside the door it is advisable to make sure the wire doesn't foul the window mechanism. To avoid this I used cable ties to fasten my two new wires to the existing wiring loom.
(iv) To get the wires through the rubber conduit between the door and the body of the car I first use a piece of earth wire from a piece of cooker cable. (I bent the end over so that the end wasn't sharp.) With a little manouvering it's relatively easy to get this from the door to the inside of the car. Then I taped the wires to the end and pulled them back through into the door.
(v) Care is needed, but all the wires except those that you are using from the RCLU may be cut short (you won't need them and they just take up valuable space). Insulate the remaining ends making sure that none of them can touch each other.
(vi) See the attached wiring diagram.
(vii) The relays will have their own wiring diagrams making it obvious how tio make the connections.
(viii) Make sure to insulate all connections.
Hope that proves to be helpful. If anyone wants any clarification then drop me a mail.
Rob
First thing (ironically it's the last thing I'm writing), but sorry about the length of the article. I intended to make this simple, but found that I just had to have all of the blurb in order for it to make sense.
I know a few have expressed interest in this subject so I thought I'd give details of how I fitted it. In the end it was relatively simple and definitely worth the effort.
Components needed: (i) Generic remote central locking (RCL) kit. (ii) Couple of cheap relays (cost me a couple of quid each - not much charge going through them so they don't need to be anything fancy). (iii) Crimps: 8 x insulated spade terminals, 2 x ring terminals for earthing points, (optional 2 x scotch locks). (iv) handful of cable ties. (v) Insulation tape.
Tools used: (i) A voltage testing meter (can buy these for a fiver if you've not got one). (ii) Philips screw drivers. (iii) 10mm spanner for dash board bolt. (iv) soldering iron, flux and solder (or if you prefer, a couple of scotch locks).
Steps taken:(1) Drivers door panel off (to get to central locking wiring).
(2) Remove dash board panels below steering column, and below radio console in order to find 12V continuous live (important that it's a permanent live), and for earthing points.
(3) Remove right hand speaker mounting (white plastic box held in with two or three screws). Need this access inside of rubber conduit for routing wire from inside car to inside door panel.
(4) Remove the drivers door arm rest, uncoupling the wiring at the same time. Note - The small console holding all the switches should be pulled up at the front (it's just clipped in there). Don't try to lever it up at the back like I did and broke it!
(5) Identify 12V permanent live. (I found a suitable one under the radio.)
(6) Identify two earthing points. (There are a few next to the fuse box (right hand side of drivers foot well) and a few under the radio.)
(7) Identify cables inside door panel that lock and unlock the all doors. On my KZN130 they are the Red/Yellow cable (unlock) and Red/White cable (lock). Both of these cables are in the wiring loom that connect into the Electric windows / Central locking switch mounted in the drivers door arm rest.
(8) Connect the Positive (+ve) connection for the RCL Unit (RCLU) to the 12V source identified in step 5.
(9) Connect the Negative (-ve) connection for the RCLU to one of the earthin points identified in step 6.
(10) If your kit is like mine then it'll have loads of wires. You'll only need a few of them. Typically the kit will have wires split into four groups (one for each door). The wires that you need are for ONE of the BACK doors. This should just be a single pair. You will also most likely have four door lock solonoids (no idea how to spell that - it's a posh name for an electro-magnet). Plug in one of the solonoids and test the lock / unlock buttons on one of the remotes. This will make the end of the solonoid pop up and down. You wont need the solonoid, but this is just a handy test to make sure that everything is ok up to press.
(11) If everything is fine up to press then take off the solonoid and using a volt meter identify which wire becomes 12V +ve when you click the lock button. (Make a note of it.) Do the same check on the other wire. It should become 12V +ve when you click the unlock button.
(12) Hard work is over now. Basically, all you need to do is make the connections shown in the attached diagram (two of which you've already done). And find somewhere to hide the RCLU and wiring.
Anciliary notes:
(i) When connecting the relays to the existing central locking wires, you can join into the wires using scotch locks. I personally perfer to tap into the wire and solder a connection. (These are the only two wires that need to go from inside the car into the door.)
(ii) When connecting the relays two of the contacts on each relay will need earth connections. To simplify this I used one wire with four spade terminals on (use one of the unused wires that you've cut off from the RCLU). This meant that you only have one wire to connect to an earthing point as well. Regarding the other two connections on each relay. One wire comes from the RCLU (identified in step 11). And the other wire is one of the wires connected into the existing Central Locking (identified in step 7).
(iii) When running the wire inside the door it is advisable to make sure the wire doesn't foul the window mechanism. To avoid this I used cable ties to fasten my two new wires to the existing wiring loom.
(iv) To get the wires through the rubber conduit between the door and the body of the car I first use a piece of earth wire from a piece of cooker cable. (I bent the end over so that the end wasn't sharp.) With a little manouvering it's relatively easy to get this from the door to the inside of the car. Then I taped the wires to the end and pulled them back through into the door.
(v) Care is needed, but all the wires except those that you are using from the RCLU may be cut short (you won't need them and they just take up valuable space). Insulate the remaining ends making sure that none of them can touch each other.
(vi) See the attached wiring diagram.
(vii) The relays will have their own wiring diagrams making it obvious how tio make the connections.
(viii) Make sure to insulate all connections.
Hope that proves to be helpful. If anyone wants any clarification then drop me a mail.
Rob
Attached Files
Had struggled with this myself for a while so I figured that others might be able to benefit from my experiences.
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